Israeli "Bordeaux Blends" (Mostly K)
 22.10.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

An interesting tasting in my own tasting room today. Fourteen Bordeaux reds from minor but often under-rated chateaux and with those eight Israeli wines that fall broadly into the category generally thought of as "Bordeaux blends". Following are my notes for the Israeli wines tasted. Those wines preceded with an asterisk (*) are just now being released.

Hevron Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elone Mamre, Reserve, 2006: My third tasting of this wine and like many of the wines from the winery, shows dramatically different at each tasting. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, full-bodied, with generous but soft and gently mouth-coating tannins and a temperate hand with the oak in which the wine aged for 20 months. On first attack distinctly sweet plums and crushed berries, those followed by notes of blackcurrants and spices. Unlike at earlier tastings, finishes with a distinctly alcoholic note. Drink now-2013. Score 87. (Re-tasted 20 Oct 2010)

*Sagol, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, 2009: Even though, thanks to the wisdom of various kashrut authorities, his name appears nowhere on the bottle this is Barry Saslove's kosher cuvee, made this year at the Or HaGanuz winery. Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied and with soft tannins, opens with sweet cherry and cedar wood notes, those followed by ripe plum and wild berry notes. Drink now-2013. Score 87. K (Tasted 20 Oct 2010)

*Agur, Special Reserve, 2008: Living nicely up to its barrel tasting promise. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (50%, 25% 10% and 5% respectively). Developed in oak for 18 months, showing deep royal purple toward garnet, a firm and concentrated wine, with still-gripping tannins and smoky wood settling in nicely now to reveal an array of cassis, blackberry and raspberry fruits, those on a background of spices and earthy minerals. Drink from release. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 20 Oct 2010)

Alona, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark garnet, full-bodied, with firm tannins and spicy oak in fine balance with fruits and acidity. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, wild berries and citrus peel, those complemented nicely by notes of Meditrranean herbs and green olives. Drink now-2013. Score 89. (Re-tasted 20 Oct 2010)

*Yatir, Merlot-Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: One might choose to bicker a bit by pointing out that the label is not quite accurate, for in addition to 33% Merlot and 21% each of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, the blend also contain 10% of Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec and 7% Cabernet Franc. Forgive them, though the label, for this is a very nice wine indeed. Medium- to full-bodied (leaning towards the full), with gently gripping tannins and fine balance between wood, acidity and fruits. On opening attack purple plums and wild berries, those yielding to currants and blackberries, all on a tempting background that hints nicely of roasted cashew nuts. Long and generous. Drink now-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 20 Oct 2010)

*Carmel, Cabernet Franc, Appellation Series, Upper Galilee, 2008: My third tasting of this wine (once from barrels, once as an advance tasting and today) and doing very nicely indeed thank you. Made primarily from Cabernet Franc grapes, those fleshed out with a bit each of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Developed in mostly used barriques for ten months, dark garnet, with appealing spicy oak on the nose, full-bodied and concentrated, an intense wine opening to reveal its faithfulness to the variety. On the nose and palate raspberries, blackberries and plums, those on background of Mediterranean herbs and what seems one moment to be eucalyptus and the next as mint. Fine balance and structure here. Drink now-2016. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 20 Oct 2010)

*Carmel, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Appellation Series, Judean Hills, 2007: As with the wine above, my third tasting and this one too doing very nicely indeed. Aged for 14 months in oak, partly new, partly used, made from 35+-year-old vines, a concentrated and full-bodied red, showing royal purple in color and with generous tannins in fine balance with spicy and vanilla-rich wood. On the nose and palate a fine array of red and black fruits, those complemented by notes of black pepper, olives and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 20 Oct 2010)