Sea Horse Winery - A Mini-Tasting
 07.07.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

A most pleasant mini-tasting today with Ze'ev Dunie, the winemaker of Sea Horse winery and several of my colleagues, the tasting of two new regular releases and a private label wine made for Tel Aviv restaurant Mel & Michelle (more on the restaurant in my restaurant diary on the culinary pages).

Established in 2000, this boutique winery is set on Moshav Bar Giora in the Jerusalem Mountains. Dunie has his own vineyards planted in Syrah, Zinfandel and Grenache and draws on Cabernet Sauvignon and other red grapes from the Upper Galilee. Mourvedre, Grenache and Petite Sirah are planted as well, coming on line with the 2010 vintage. The winery’s initial production, from the 2001 vintage, was of 1,800 bottles. Production in 2007 was about 18,000 bottles, and predicted production for 2010 is for about 15,000 bottles. As can be seen in the names he gives his wines, winemaker Dunie has a passion for naming his wines after people he admires. Current releases include two Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, Elul and Fellini; a Zinfandel-based wine, Lennon; a Syrah-based wine, Antoine; and in selected years, Munch, which is made entirely from Petite Sirah grapes. There are also two blends, Gaudi and Romain. James, the winery’s first white wine, a Chenin Blanc, was first released from the 2007 vintage. Sea Horse comfortably retains its four stars in my wine guide.

Those wanting further information or to purchase the wines can contact the winery by telephoning 02-5709834 info@seahorsewines.com

Best
Rogov

Sea Horse, GSM, Romain, 2008: Dedicated, as the winemaker enjoys doing to his intellectual heroes, in this case to author Romain Gary. A blend of 40% Grenache and 30% each Syrah and Mourvedre. Medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full), dark cherry to brick red in color, reflecting its 15 months in second- and third-year barriques with gently gripping tannins and an overtone of spicy cedarwood. On first attack red berries and freshly cut Mediterranean herbs, those parting to make way for blackberries, black cherries, Oriental spices and a clear hint of mocha. Long, round and generous. Drink now-2014.NIS 90 Score 91 (Re-tasted 8 Jul 2010)

Sea Horse, Chenin Blanc, James, 2009: Dedicated to the memory of winemaker Ronnie James, developed sur lie in second- and third-year barriques. Showing fine balance between crisp acidity and fruits, a rich and stylish wine with peach, mango and apricot fruits, those supported nicely by notes of cloves and green tea and on the long finish notes of candied ginger. An enticing wine. Drink now-2014, perhaps longer. NIS 98. Score 90. (Re-tasted 8 Jul 2010)

Sea Horse, GSM, Mel & Michelle, 2008: A private label wine made by the winery for the Mel & Michelle restaurant in Tel Aviv. A cherry red towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied blend in this case of 44% Grenache and 28% Syrah and Mourvedre. Showing soft, gently caressing tannins and hints of spicy oak that make way comfortably to blackberries, black cherries and cassis, with tannins and a hint of espresso coffee rising on the long finish. Drink now-2013. For sale only at the restaurant. Score 91. (Tasted 8 Jul 2010)