Recanati in its 10th Year: Tastings and Re-tastings (K)
 05.07.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday (Sunday, 4 July) had me meeting with winemaker Gil Shatzberg and CEO Noam Jaboby of the Recanati Winery for a tasting and lunch. Later in the afternoon several more wines were delivered for tasting and those were part of this morning's tasting session. I also made a point of re-tasting the 2006 Special Reserve wine.

Founded by Lenny Recanati and now celebrating a decade since its founding, this modern winery located in the Hefer Valley in the north part of the Sharon region relies on grapes from their own as well as contract vineyards, primarily in the Upper Galilee. The winery's original winemaker, Lewis Pasco, returned to California in 2007 and since then new senior winemaker Gil Shatzberg (formerly of Amphorae) and winemaker Ido Lewinsohn have made a talented and versatile team. The winery produces wines in several series: the top-of-the-line age-worthy Special Reserve wines and two varietal series, Reserve and Recanati, which now include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. The winery also has a popular-priced, entry-level series named Yasmine and a Special Edition series produced entirely for the Derekh HaYain (Wine Route) shops in Israel. Production is currently about 900,000 bottles annually. In an interesting move, the winery is now moving in the direction of wines that, while no less complex or sophisticated, are less alcoholic, rounder and more distinctly food-friendly. Part of this goal is being attained by earlier harvest and the increasing use of fine-grain Burgundy barrels that will impart a more gentle wood influence to the wines.

My thanks to Gil and Noam for a fine tasting and their good company over lunch at Tel Aviv's Coffee Bar (at which a fine chicken liver pate with poached figs and a lovely medium-rare entrecote steak smothered in whole roasted garlic cloves).

Best
Rogov

The White Wines

Recanati, Chardonnay, Special Edition, 2009: Unoaked, blended with a bit of Sauvignon Blanc, both from the Upper Galilee, made especially for sale at the Derekh HaYain (Wine Route), a most pleasant wine. Light gold in color, medium-bodied, with crisp and fresh aromas and flavors of citrus (leaning to red grapefruit), citrus peel and a hint of tropical fruits all on a light flinty mineral background. Not at all a "great" wine but a sophisticated quaffer, ideal for warm spring or summer days. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 59. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, 2009: From older vines at Kerem Ben Zimra, developed partly sur lie and partly in stainless steel, showing notes of sweet and spicy cedarwood and opens to reveal generous tropical and citrus fruits on a background of ginger and Oriental spices and freshly known grass. Fresh, lively and with enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now-2011. NIS 69. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2009: Developed on its lees, 50% in second- and third-year barrels, 50% in stainless steel, showing light yeast notes that part to reveal appealing pear, apple and citrus notes on a light flinty mineral background. Lively and generous. Drink now-2012. NIS 59. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 5 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009: Unoaked, with a moderate 12% alcohol, a crisp and refreshing wine with fine acidity to highlight citrus, tropical and apple fruits, all with a hint of white pepper on the finish. Drink now. NIS 45. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 5 Jul 2010)

The Rosé Wine

Recanati, Rosé, 2009: A blend of 80% Barbera and 20% Merlot, those almost bright-rose-petal red, showing light- to medium-bodied, with good acidity to keep it lively and refreshing. On the nose and palate raspberry, cherry and blueberry notes with a tantalizing hint of super-light tannins to add complexity. Very nice indeed. NIS 69. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 Jul 2010)

The Red Wines

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2006: My recent earlier tasting notes hold firmly. A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot. Aged for 19 months in barriques, of which 80% were new, showing full-bodied with still firm tannins along with generous wood and acidity. No fear, however, for those are settling in nicely and show fine balance with fruits yielding a structure that bodes very well for the future. On the nose and palate hints of chocolate, espresso coffee and tobacco to support rich berry, currant and licorice notes, all coming to a powerful but long and graceful finish. Approachable now but best to cellar this one as best drinking will start only in 2012. The wine should cellar well until 2018. NIS 165. Score 93. (Re-tasted 5 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Special Edition, 2009: Oak aged for 2 – 3 months, showing tantalizing hints of oak and soft tannins that are already integrating nicely. On the nose and palate a fine array of currants, raspberries and wild berries, those complemented by notes of white pepper and earthy minerals. Medium-bodied and round, an easy to drink red. Drink now-2012. NIS 69. Score 88. K (Tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2007: Garnet towards royal purple, oak-aged for 18 months, full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle notes of smoky wood and spices. On the nose and palate red currants, red and black berries and notes of green olives on a lightly earthy-mineral background. Drink now-2013. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Dark, full-bodied, loaded with chocolate, spices and licorice, opening to reveal a generous array of currants, black cherries and blueberries, all of which linger through a long and supple finish. Drink now–2015. NIS 95. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Cabernet Franc, Reserve, 2008: Oak-aged for 18 months in some new, some used oak. Smooth and velvety, with tannins that grip just right and stand up nicely to light toasty wood. Notes of rose petals, black cherries and raspberries on first attack, those yielding nicely to notes of currants, tar and toasted rye bread. Culminates in an impressively persistent finish on which the oak takes on an appealing sweetish note. Drink from release–2014. NIS 95. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Reserve 2008: Developed for 8 months in American oak, showing garnet toward royal purple, medium-bodied with silky tannins,opens to show appealing blackberry, black cherry and cassis notes, those complemented nicely by notes of licorice, black olives and sweet cedar. Drink now-2012. NIS 89. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 5 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Merlot, 2009: Blended with about 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, allowed to ferment partly by carbonic maceration, opens with a fruity nose and then goes on to show purple plum, blackberry and blueberry fruits. Developed partly in American and partly in French oak, medium-bodied, not overly complex but sits very comfortably on the palate. Drink now-2013. NIS 59. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 5 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009: Medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and peppery and vanilla overtones, opens to reveal traditional Cabernet currant, blackberry and dark chocolate notes. A long, mouth-filling finish on which tannins and fruits rise nicely together. Drink now-2013. NIS 59. K (Tasted 5 Jul 2010)

Recanati, Shiraz, 2009: Blended with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and developed in French and American oak. Super-dark garnet in color, with lively acidity and gentle wood influences setting, opens to a floral, vanilla and mineral-rich nose and then goes on to reveal peppery plum and berry fruits, all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2014. NIS 59. Score 89. K