Carmel's Petite Sirah: Decanter's Wine of the Month (K)
 26.06.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

My correspondent was correct in noting that I only rarely mention prizes awarded to wines. Not a "prize" this time to report but indeed an honor and a compliment, in that Carmels 2006 Petite Sirah in their Appellation series was selected as Wine of the Month by Decanter Magazine (July 2010 issue).

An honor in several ways – first in that only two previous Israeli wines have been selected by the prestigious magazine as its wine of the month and that those were both wines of the Domaine du Castel. Second, and to me at least more significant that the wine chosen was a Petite Sirah and that it was Carmel who made the wine.

For many years Petite Sirah wines released in Israel were so poor in quality that the grape took on a bad name in the country. I used to joke because so many had come to know and hate Petite Sirah that if someone had imported one of Helen Turley's 95 point Petite Sirah wines from California that no one would by them even if they were offered at three for ten dollars.

The times they are indeed a'changing and Petite Sirah is most assuredly on the ascendant once again in Israel. Considering the quality revolution that Carmel has undergone and continues to undergo, it seems entirely appropriate that Carmel, now celebrating 120 years of consecutive harvests, seems to be one of the outstanding leaders in the newly found pride in this grape. My own tasting note for Carmel's wine from 2008-2005 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 2008-2005 end_of_the_skype_highlighting follow.

Those who read Hebrew may be interested to know that I have written a special piece about Carmel and its 120th harvest. That will appear in Hebrew in HaAretz this coming Thursday (1 July) and in English, French, German and would you believe Japanese in the following weeks. I will post links as they become available.

Best
Rogov

Regional, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Judean Hills, 2008: Made from unwatered and almost untended vines so close to the ground that one can think of these as bush vines*, a dark garnet and deeply aromatic wine with fine concentration and generous spicy notes, those including nutmeg, allspice and cinnamon, those yielding comfortably to cherry and berry flavors and an appealing hint of mint on the long finish. Firm and intense, with gripping tannins needing some time to settle in. Drink now-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. K

*Vines known as "bush vines" are vines pruned by the gobelet system, that involving no wires or other systems of support, in which the gnarled trunk of the vine is kept quite close to the ground

Regional, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Judean Hills, 2007: Aged for 14 months in oak, partly new, partly used, made from 35+-year-old vines, a concentrated and full-bodied red, showing royal purple in color and with generous tannins in fine balance with spicy and vanilla-rich wood. On the nose and palate a fine array of red and black fruits, those complemented by notes of black pepper, olives and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K

Regional, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Judean Hills, 2006: A big wine, full-bodied, deep garnet toward royal purple, with gripping tannins just starting to settle down but showing fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Ripe plum, blackberry and boysenberry notes on a background of minerals, minted chocolate and spicy cedarwood. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K

Regional, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Judean Hills, 2005: Developed in French oak for 12 months, made from grapes from 35-year-old vines, this almost impenetrably dark purple, still-firmly tannic wine opens in the glass to reveal a rich array of dark plum, blueberry, peppery, herbal and spicy cedar notes. Dense enough to be thought of as chewable but opens to show harmony and grace. Drink now. Score 91. K