Two Single Vineyard Wines from Carmel (K)
 13.06.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

As is said in Arabic, yom assal, yom basal (one day honey, the next onions). Yesterday was my day for tasting wines under NIS 35 in cost (not bad but certainly basal). Today was my assal (honey) day, that devoted to two categories of wines, varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz wines from the 2006 vintage in the more prestigious series of wineries from Israel, those matched in the tasting by wines of the same varieties and same vintage from Australia, Chile and Southern France. The overall tasting (38 wines in all) will make for an article abroad and will be printed here after that appears but for the moment, let me comment on two wines from Carmel.

Truth be told, I recognized both of the Carmel wines even though tasting blind. Not only had I had tasted both twice before (in barrel tastings and then in advance tastings) but, and even more important, here was the clear signature of winemaker Sam Soroka who, during his tenure at Carmel did some marvelous things together with senior winemaker Lior Laxer. No fear about bias, though, for I also recognized the wines of Margalit, Flam and Castel and although that made me smile when my "guesses" were confirmed, the wines get scored for what they are and not who made them.

Simply stated, with their single vineyard wines, Carmel demonstrates once again that it remains most definitely a force with which to be reckoned. And, in the vernacular …that ain't a bad thing at all.

Best
Rogov

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2006: Much as at earlier tastings. Super-dark garnet in color, with a traditional Cabernet nose, a long, round and concentrated wine, medium- to full-bodied with generous but gently mouth-coating tannins, opening to show currant, wild berry, chocolate and espresso coffee notes. Deep, round, nearly chewy and with a deep near-sweet plummy fruit finish. Drink now–2014. NIS 120. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 9 Jun 2009)

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2006: Showing even better than at earlier tastings. Deep garnet with hints of royal purple and casting orange and green reflections, a concentrated wine, full-bodied and deeply extracted yet showing remarkably soft tannins and spicy wood that almost melts on the palate. On first attack plums and currants, those making way for black cherries, hints of saddle leather and notes of asphalt. On the long and generous finish with tannins rising a comfortable overlay of freshly roasted herbs and cedar wood. Approachable now but what a waste as this one will start showing its best only in 2011. Cellar comfortably until 2017. NIS 120. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 9 Jun 2009)