Castel: An Extraordinary Vertical Tasting (K)
 12.02.2011 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday, (Friday, 11 February 2011), along with a group of visiting wine critics from abroad as well as a group of local wine writers and critics, I visited the Castel Winery, there to do extended vertical tastings of the three releases of the winery – the Grand Vin Castel, the Petit Castel and the "C" Blanc du Castel.

Starting as a micro-winery, the Domaine du Castel grew gradually and now produces approximately 100,000 bottles annually. Since the release of a mere 600 bottles of his first wine in 1992, owner-winemaker Eli Ben Zaken – who now works with his sons Ariel and Eytan – has consistently made some of the very best wines in the country. The fully modern and attractive winery, with its exquisitely designed barrel room holding more than 500 barriques, is located on Moshav Ramat Raziel in the Jerusalem Mountains. The winery relies entirely on grapes grown in the area, mostly in its own vineyards, some in contract vineyards under its full supervision. Grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Chardonnay.

Until the 2009 vintage the winery produced only three wines annually. The flagship wine, Grand Vin Castel, is a superb Bordeaux-style blend; the fine second label, Petit Castel, an often no-less exciting wine, is one meant for somewhat earlier drinking; and the “C” Blanc du Castel has often been one of the most exciting Chardonnay wines produced in Israel. With the 2009 vintage the winery presented its first Rosé du Castel. The Castel wines have all been kosher since 2003.

Vertical tastings such as these open many windows that allow one to peek in and follow the history not only of the wines but of the winery. Before getting to my tasting notes, however, let it be clearly understood that not all of those colleagues I respect will agree with all that I say, especially about drinking windows. Wines, for example, that I may judge as sliding past their peak or even well beyond their peak may be judged by others as fine examples of mature wines.

Since its inception, Castel has been one of the very best wineries in the country and this tasting did nothing to change that opinion. When reading the following reviews keep in mind that the scores awarded are those of the wines in their condition today, the scores when the wines were at or near their peak often quite a bit higher. If I had to draw a "moral to the story" it would be that I find the Castel reds and whites to be approachable and thoroughly enjoyable on release; that the "C" Blanc du Castel wines will maintain their vivacity, complexity and elegance comfortably for 5 – 6 years beyond their vintage year; the Petit Castel for 5 – 7 years; and the Grand Vin for 7 – 9 years. Beyond that, it is up to each wine lover to determine just how mature he/she best likes their wines.

If the reviews and comments of some of those who visited from abroad (Michel Bettane of France; Jan Van Lissum of Holland; Robert Joseph of the UK, and MW Jeannie Cho Lee of Hong Kong) become available to me, I shall post links here, that letting forumites and readers gain an insight into how different and respected critics respond, sometimes in different manners to the same wines and issues.

Overall, a fascinating tasting in good company. My sincere thanks to Eli Ben Zaken as well as to those of his family and staff who assured that the tasting was very well coordinated. My thanks as well as for their courtesies during my visit.

Best
Rogov

Castel – "C" Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Light bright gold in color, medium-bodied and thus somewhat lighter in body than many earlier releases. Showing fine balance and, even at this very early stage, complexity. On the nose and palate floral notes that highlight nectarine, citrus and pear fruits, those on a light toasty note and finishing with fresh minerality. Drink from release-2015. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2008: Light, bright gold in color, full-bodied but with balance so finely tuned that the wine seems to float on the palate. On first attack, grapefruit and grapefruit pith on a seductive creamy and vanilla nose, the wine then opening in the glass to reveal pear, apricot, fig and melon aromas and flavors, all on a mineral-rich background. Long, deep, complex and elegant. Drink now-2014. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2006: Tasted from a magnum-format bottle. Rich shining gold in color, its once somewhat heavy wood influence now receding. On the nose and palate a generous array of Anjou pears, green apples and citrus, those complemented by notes of raisins, roasted Brazil nuts and spices. As at past tastings a concentrated and intense wine, not so much a lively quaffer as a meditation wine. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2004: Its color now gone from its youthful damp golden straw to a deeper, almost burnished gold. Gentle oak influences and good balancing acidity highlight citrus, melon and pear fruits. As noted at an earlier tasting, a mature Chardonnay, long and generous with an appealing spicy note that rises on the finish. Past its peak. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2001: Its once youthful gold color now starting to take on a light bronzed note. Opens with a butterscotch and caramel nose, goes on to reveal ripe yellow peaches, nectarines and citrus aromas and flavors, those set on a gentle background of toasty oak and roasted nuts. Fully mature, still drinking nicely but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 88. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, Blanc du Castel, 2000: Medium to full-bodied, now taking on the color of dark,damp straw, the wine offers pear and fig aromas and flavors, all on a background that at one moment feels like butterscotch and at another like toasty bread. Remains an elegant wine but now fully mature and well past its peak. Drink up. Score 87. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Rosé du Castel

Castel, Rosé du Castel, 2009: My most recent earlier tasting note holds firmly. Castel’s first rosé and a rousing success. Made by the saignée method (i.e., making a wine from red grapes and allowing the free-run juice to run off with minimal skin contact), showing a lively color somewhere between neon and mandarin orange. Made entirely from Merlot grapes, medium-bodied and boasting a hefty 14% alcohol content, but don’t let that upset you for this is a wine with fine balance between alcohol, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate strawberries, blueberries, cranberries and light hints of Oriental spices and even a gentle dollop of tannins to add to one’s pleasure. Wonderfully fruity and complex. Drink now. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Petit Castel

Castel, Petit Castel, 2007: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Deep garnet, a full-bodied wine reflecting its 16 months development in oak with gently caressing tannins, those integrating nicely with notes of spicy cedar wood.. On first attack red plums and a hint of garrigue, those yielding comfortably to currants, wild berries and a note of bitter citrus peel. Wood and tannins rise on the finish. Drink now–2013, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Petit Castel, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins. On the nose an appealing hint of spicy wood, that supported by black fruits and then going on to reveal aromas and flavors of red and black berries, black cherries, licorice and bittersweet chocolate. As in its youth a tantalizing hint of sweetness on the long finish. Drink now. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Petit Castel, 2004: Dark garnet with a hint of clearing at the rim, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins, gentle notes of spicy oak and fine balancing acidity. A caressing wine that opens with a chocolate and berry-rich nose, thyose joined by cassis, black cherries, dark plums, bittersweet chocolate and pepper, all lingering on a long, polished and round finish. Remains elegant and supple but showing first signs of aging. Drink up. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Petit Castel, 2001: Dark garnet going to adobe brick and with a hint of browning to show its age. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft, well-integrated tannins, the once vibrant blackcurrant and blackberry fruits now somewhat muted and a note of earthiness on the ascendant. Primarily for those who enjoy their wines on the mature side. Drink up. Score 90. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Petit Castel, 1998: The first Petit Castel released by the winery. In its youth medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied, with rich ripe berry, black cherry and cassis fruits and fine balance between soft tannins, smoky oak and fruits. The once garnet color is going to brick red, the fruits are now muted and yielding to a note that hints at one moments of band-aids and at another of iodine. Still some fruits here but well past its peak and no longer scoreable. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel – Grand Vin

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): An infant but oh what a lovely baby. Garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins. On the nose raspberries and spices, those yielding in the glass to blackcurrants, black cherries and a note of citrus peel. Already showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin, 2007: My earlier tasting notes hold firmly. The by-now traditional Grand Vin blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, that flushed out with Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Full-bodied, dark garnet and well extracted, firm on opening but yielding comfortably in the glass to reveal gently caressing tannins, notes of spicy oak and generous blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those supported by notes of mocha, orange peel and black olives. On the super-long finish a tempting note of licorice. Long, generous and coherent. Drink now–2015. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin, 2005: Dark toward inky garnet, with just a bit of clearing at the rim, with firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy and smoky oak. Deeply aromatic, opens in the glass to show a nose and palate of blackcurrant, blackberry and purple plum fruits on a background of roasted herbs and near-sweet tobacco. On the long finish hints of citrus peel, anise and cherry-flavored dark chocolate. Drink now–2013. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin 2004: Dark garnet with the once-firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood. On the nose and palate currants and blackberries, those supported very nicely indeed by notes of raspberries, licorice and tobacco, all lingering long and comfortably on the palate. An elegant wine. Drinking nicely now but don’t hesitate to cellar until 2013. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2003: Dark garnet and full-bodied, with its once firm tannins now gently caressing. On the nose appealing notes of fresh sawdust and black fruits, those making way in the glass for currants, wild berries, sweet herbs and a hint of green olives. At its peak now but as this one continues to develop in the bottle expect the fruits to recede and make room for more earthy-herbal notes. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2001: Maturing and now showing earthy currant, black cherry, sage and cedarwood aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and concentrated, the wine possesses great elegance and features long lingering flavors rich in hints of coffee and chocolate. A bit of earthy funk creeping in. Showing first signs of age. Drink now. Score 91. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2000: With its once-firm tannins now well integrated, this medium- to full-bodied wine continues to show fine balance between spicy blackcurrant, plum and blackberry fruits, those matched nicely by hints of Mediterranean herbs and clean earthy aromas and flavors. Muscular, with firm tannins as well as a long, spicy finish. Sliding past its peak. Drink up. Score 90. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1999: In its youth deep ruby-toward-dark-purple, now garnet going to brick red. Full-bodied, continues to show good balance between generous, well-integrated tannins and currant, plum and blackberry fruits but with a notes of band-aids and oxidation creeping in. Showing a bit flabby on the palate. Past its peak and maturing rapidly. Drink up. Score 87. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1998: An elegant wine in its youth, its once deep garnet color now going somewhat dull and taking on an adobe brick color, its once gently caressing tannins now taking on a somewhat flabby sensation. Continues to show spicy wood, plums and currants on the palate but those with a near stewed nature. A wine to be appreciated primarily by those who enjoy their wines on the distinctly mature side. Drink up. Score 86. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1997: A luxurious wine in its youth, with remarkably intense blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, Mediterranean herbs, abundant but very well-balanced oak and a long finish with pepper and anise. Supple and harmonious as it developed but now well past its peak and fading rapidly. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1996: Fully mature now, this still complex and full-bodied wine continues to show fine balance between wood, tannins, and an array of aromas and flavors of currants, herbs, tobacco, hints of mint and sweet cedar that unfold nicely on the palate. Fine when first poured but fades quickly in the glass, herbal and earthy notes coming to dominate. Past its peak so drink up. Score 87. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1995: In its youth a concentrated, intense and simultaneously elegant wine, showing a rich array of currant, purple plum and black cherry fruits on a background of dark chocolate., and in the background notes of cigar tobacco and spicy cedar. Still harmonious but now showing its age with a hint of adobe brick in the color and clearing at the rim, the once generous fruits now more subdued and taking on a near-stewed nature, loamy notes of cured leather and tobacco rising as the wine sits in the glass. Drink up. Score 86. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 1993: Absolutely lovely in its youth but now taking on a color of adobe bricks and showing only bare hints of the once rich blackcurrants, blackberries and nuttiness that typified the wine in its early days. On the nose and palate today a too-distinct herbaceouensss that overpowers the now muted black fruits. Hints at its earlier glory but now well past its peak and not meant for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 83. (Re-tasted 11 Feb 2011)