6 Wineries on the Negev Heights: My Annual Visit (1 Kosher) 
 16.03.2011 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Monday morning(14 Mar 2011) found me on the 07:09 train to Beer Sheva, from there to make my way to the area of Ramat HaNegev (Negev Heights), my major purpose being to re-visit and do tastings at the wineries now in the area.

It surprises may to learn that the Negev Heights, a fully desert region, is Israel's physically largest regional council, incorporating 1.1 million acres which is nearly 22% of the land mass of the country. Despite its size the population density is the lowest in the country some residing in the town of Mitzpe Ramon and on the Kibbutzim, Moshavim and individual owner ranches (chavat boded)of the area, that segment of the population complementing the indigenous Bedouins of the region.

What also surprises is that this desert region hosts many archaeological sites, those including the ancient cities of the spice route (Avdat, Haluza, Nitzana and Shivta), several of which have been declared World Heritage sites. Equally fascinating is that the region has several makhteshim (literally craters but more accurately erosion cirques or box canyons) those of a type found only in the Negev and Sinai Deserts. The best known of these and surely one of the most exquisitely beautiful l sites on the planet is the Ramon Crater which is 28 miles long and five miles wide (45 x 8 kilometers).

I confess with no embarrassment whatever that as happens every time I am in this area that while driving from winery to winery I often found myself agape at the beauty that surrounded me.

As to wine, the Ramat HaNegev wineries have yet to produce their first "great wine". What is impressive however is that as the winemakers garner further experience and the vines become more mature the wines improve on a regular basis and many are now of high quality and interest, now beginning to reflect the special nature of wines made from desert-grown grapes, that is to say, reflecting a comfortable stony minerality and generous brown spices. It is true that not a few of the regional wines show generous acidity, perhaps too generous in some cases, but this is a problem that seems on its way to control. Regional winemakers are showing wisdom by welcoming visitors to their wineries and by keeping their prices at a quite reasonable level, the prices ranging between NIS 55 and 100 per bottle.

My thanks to Raz Arbel of the Ramat HaNegev Regional Council for facilitating this trip and to the winemakers, each of whom welcomed me warmly and each of whom in one way or another typifies the very special lifestyle of the desert. Especially warm thanks to Dani Almog of Ben Gurion University for accompanying me on my travels. This is the second year running that Dani and I spent the day together and I have learned that in addition to being a thoroughly nice person, his knowledge of the history, archaeology and geography of the region is encyclopedic.

Rota Winery

Founded by Erez Rota on the Negev Heights, this artisanal winery released its first wines in 2002. The winery and its beautifully planted and tended vineyards are set on an isolated farm, surrounded by magnificent desert mountains. Grapes under cultivation are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Muscat of Alexandria. In addition, the winery also receives grapes from the Ella Valley. First releases in 2002 were of 1,000 bottles. Current production is about 10,000 bottles annually. The wines will be kosher starting with the 2010 vintage.

Rota, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2010 (Advance Tasting): A medium-bodied, ruby toward garnet, gently tannic blend of 50% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, those developed with oak chips. Fresh and refreshing, with red berries and cassis fruits matched nicely by notes of stony minerals and an appealing hint of spicy oak. Intended for early drinking. Drink now. Score 87. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Rota, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ya'el, 2008: Royal purple toward garnet, medium-bodied, reflecting its aging in barriques for 8 months with soft, gently caressing tannins and hints of sweet-and-spicy cedar wood. On the nose and palate currants, crushed berries, earthy minerals and notes of brown spices. Mouth-filling and generous. Drink now-2013. Score 87. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Rota, Cabernet Sauvignon, Addi, 2008: Oak-aged for 13 months, showing medium- to full-bodied, with gentle notes of spicy oak and chunky, country-style tannins, those tannins supporting aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, blackberries, plums, spices and green olives. Round and easy with just enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Kadesh Barnea

This Negev Desert winery was established in 1999 by Alon Tzadok on Moshav Kadesh Barnea and has its own vineyards near the ruins of the Byzantine city of Nitzana, just north of the Egyptian border. Among the grapes utilized in varietal releases and blends are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Initial production was about 5,000 bottles, and current annual production is currently about 75,000 bottles annually. Target production is 150,000 bottles annually. New equipment has been introduced to the winery and Tzadok’s son Yogev who studied winemaking in Florence, Italy and returned to Israel in 2009 is now fully in charge of the winemaking process. The wines have been kosher since the 2002 vintage.

Kadesh Barnea, Merlot, Alon, 2009: Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and reflecting its 10 months in American oak with a gentle influence of the wood and soft tannins. Garnet towards royal purple, with a red fruit nose opens to reveal blackcurrant and black and red berries on a background of roasted herbs, brown spices and earthy minerals. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Kadesh Barnea, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009: A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Shiraz. Oak aged for 10 months, showing medium-dark garnet in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins. A somewhat quiet nose but opens in the glass to reveal aromas and flavors of blackberries and purple plums, those on a background that hints of bitter herbs. Somewhat short but a good quaffer. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 84. K (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Kadesh Barnea, Alon, Reserve, 2009: A blend of 45% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, those fleshed out by 5% each of Petit Verdot and Shiraz Medium – to full-bodied (leaning to the full), reflecting its 18 months in half French, half American oak with notes of sweet and spicy oak and generous but soft tannins. With a distinct note of chocolate on the opening nose, that yielding in the glass to aromas and flavors of black and red berries, cassis and stony minerals, tannins and a note of brown spices rising on the finish. Easy to drink but too generous acidity holds the wine back from true excellence. Drink now-2013. Score 86. K (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Kadesh Barnea, Blended Red, Alon, 2008: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot (50%, 45% and 5% respectively). Oak-aged for 12 months, showing chocolate and brown spices on the nose. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins and generous blackcurrant, blackberry and citrus peel notes, those supported by notes of stony minerals. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86. K (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Sde Boker

Located on Kibbutz Sde Boker in the heart of the Negev Desert, this small winery was founded in 1998 by former Californian Zvi Remick who studied winemaking at California’s Napa Valley College. Relying on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Carignan and Zinfandel grapes grown in the desert, current production is about 6,000 bottles annually. The winery has recently opened a new, attractive visitors’ center.

Sde Boker, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2007: An earlier tasting note holds firmly. An oak-aged blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Dark garnet toward royal purple, full-bodied, with soft tannins that grip gently and showing fine balance between wood, acidity and fruits. On first attack red plums and spices, those parting to make way for clean notes of cassis and blackberries and, on the long finish, the tannins rising together with the fruits a note of roasted herbs. The best to date from the winery. Drink now–2013. Score 90. (Re-tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Sde Boker, Malbec, 2009: Made entirely from desert-grown Malbec grapes and dveloped for 18 months in barriques, 10% of which were new. Garnet with a royal purple robe, a ripe and friendly medium- to full-bodied wine with blackberries, red plums and note of figs all coming together nicely on a background of licorice and graphite and, on the moderately long finish, an appealing hint of anise. Drink now-2013. Score 87. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Sde Boker, Merlot, 2008: Garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and light notes of spicy oak giving the wine a round, easily approachable nature. On the nose and palate red currants and raspberries, those parting to make way for crushed wild berries. Tannins and fruits rise nicely on a moderately long finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Sde Boker, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet in color with soft tannins and generous (perhaps too generous) acidity. Opens in the glass to reveal black and red currants, wild berries and notes of spices and earthy minerals. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Sde Boker, Zin Zin, 2007: Made as is the winemaker's wont from late-harvested Zinfandel grapes, a sweet dessert wine with its whopping 15.9% alcohol content and generous sweetness completely natural. Oak aged and with fine prunes and raisins on the nose, opens in the glass to show super-ripe cherry, berry and plum fruits, those on a background of sweet brown spices and toasty oak. On the long finish cherries, milk chocolate and a tantalizing hint of cinnamon. Drink now-2014. Score 88. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Carmey Avdat

Founded by Eyal Izrael, this small winery is based on a private farm on the heights of the Negev Desert not far from Kibbutz Sde Boker. Set in a physically beautiful hilly desert region, the winery’s vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes are planted in a wadi and rely largely on water from 1,500-year-old water terraces built in the Nabbateean period. Current production is about 6,000 bottles annually.

Carmey Avdat, Rosé, 2010: At first glance it seems that with its dark garnet color that calling this wine a rosé is somewhat of a misnomer. The depth of color comes because the early harvested Cabernet Sauvignon grapes used were allowed 18 hours skin contact. What surprises pleasantly is that both on nose and palate the wine indeed comes across as a rosé, crisply dry, light- to medium-bodied with blueberry, raspberry and strawberry aromas and flavors and a hint of minerality on the finish. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Carmey Avdat, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: Oak aged for 12 months in new and older American oak, showing dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and, as not infrequently typifies the wines of the region generous acidity. Opens with plums and wild berries, goes on to reveal currants, spices and a hint of anise on the finish. Drink now-2012. Score 86. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Carmey Avdat, Merlot, 2008: Deep garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins opening in the glass to show generous blackcurrants, purple plums and blackberries, those supported by notes of fresh herbs and brown spices. Easy to drink but complex enough to get our attention. Drink now-2012, perhaps longer. Score 87. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Carmey Avdat, Kedem, 2008: A deep garnet, full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. On the nose black fruits and pepper. Opens in the glass to show blackcurrant, blackberry and tobacco notes and, on the finish what seems at one moment to be pepper, at another ginger and at yet another anise. Score 88. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Carmey Avdat, Merlot, 2007: Dark garnet with a hint of adobe, medium- to full-bodied with good concentration and extraction, its tannins and spicy wood now integrated, opens to show appealing blackberry, black cherry, purple plums and chocolate, all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Carmey Avdat, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and notes of spicy wood. On the nose and palate blackcurrant, blackberry and cherry fruits, those on a background of earthy minerals and a hint of mint on the finish. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Carmey Avdat, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Tishrey, 2009: A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Mediuim- to full-bodied and softly tannic. Aged for 12 months in new oak, opens with a minty and red-fruit nose, goes on to reveal aromas and flavors of currants, wild berries and brown spices all lingering nicely. Drink now-2013. Score 88. (Tasted 14 Mary 2011)

Carmey Avdat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Someq, 2008: Unoaked, showing deep ruby in color, a light- to medium-bodied wine with clean cherry, raspberry and red currant fruits. Nothing complex here but a refreshing quaffer. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 14 May 2011)

Derekh Eretz

Settled in on an individual ranch on the Negev Heights at which his stone sculptures can be seen everywhere, Daniel Kish planted his first vines in 2006, those of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Shiraz. A rugged individual living in and thriving on rugged circumstances, with no power yet connected to the national grid but relying entirely on generators. As of now wines are made in large plastic vats with the addition of oak chips. The following wines will be his first releases, those of about 3,000 bottles that will go for about NIS 100 per bottle.

Because these were all barrel tastings (more accurately, tank tastings), and these are the winery's very first releases, some of which may be released as varietal wines, others of which may make their way into blends, I will not speculate about drinking windows at this very early stage.

Derekh Eretz, Petite Sirah, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Super dark garnet in color, full-bodied with
moderate notes of spicy oak. Opens to show true Petite Sirah characteristics. On the nose, licorice, black pepper and huckleberries, those parting to make way for generous blackberry fruits, all on a firmly tannic background. Generous and long. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Derekh Eretz, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, a big full-bodied and generously tannic wine showing a perhaps too heavy note of acidity that tends to hide the black and red berries and currants that are here. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Derekh Eretz, Zinfandel, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Blended with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, impenetrably dark garnet with a royal purple robe. Full-bodied and muscular, with still gripping tannins needing time to integrate, opens in the glass to revel a generous array of raspberries, blackberries and crushed wild berries, those with an overlay of earthy minerals and, on the finish, hints of brown spices. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Derekh Eretz, Merlot, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, full-bodied, with soft tannins and notes of smoky wood in fine balance with fruits and acidity. With an appealing herbal nose, opens to reveal raspberries, red currants and sweet spices. Round and generous. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

DerekhEretz, Petit Verdot, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): With an abundance of chocolate on the nose, a full-bodied, softly tannic and generously acidic wine, showing red currants, sage and briar, all on a generously spicy background. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Derekh Eretz, Shiraz, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, round, ripe and generous with aromas and flavors of red berries and cherries supported by notes of earthy minerals and sweet spices, all lingering nicely. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Rajum

Located on the Tzel HaMidbar Ranch at Mitzpe Ramon, which by any standards is one of the most exquisitely beautiful places on the planet, this small winery was founded in 2008 by Ziv Spector and Ilan Tifti. The winery, at which wines are named for the surrounding Negev mountains is now producing 3,000–3,500 bottles annually from Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Pinot Noir grapes sourced from various Negev vineyards. The winery has no kashrut certificate but labels its wines as “kosher on trust,” this implying that all of the rules of kashrut are enforced in both the vineyards and the winery.

Rajum, Shiraz, Kemer, 2009: Cherry red towards garnet, reflecting its 12 months in oak with somewhat chunky tannins. Medium- to full-bodied, opening in the glass to reveal an array of red and black berries, those on background of grilled herbs. On the finish a note of bittersweet chocolate. Drink from release-2013. Score 86. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)
Rajum, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yeter, 2009: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, developed in French oak for 12 months and showing medium- to full-bodied, round and generous. On the nose and palate currants, raspberries, an appealing hint of the wood. On the finish sweet spices and a note of licorice. Drink from release-2014. Score 87. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Rajum, Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec, Karkom, 2009: Aged, as all of the winery's releases for 12 months in barriques, a medium- to full-bodied, gently tannic blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. On the nose and palate ripe raspberry and black and red currants coming together with notes of toasty oak and a hint of cocoa. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. Score 86. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)

Rajum, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Ramon, 2009: Developed for 12 months in 100 liter demijohns with oak chips, an unusual blend (to say the least) but comes together nicely as medium- to full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins to highlight aromas and flavors of red and black berries, milk chocolate and earthy minerals, the tannins and fruits rising on the finish. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. Score 86. (Tasted 14 Mar 2011)