Golan Heights Winery: My 2010 Visit With Tasting Notes (K) 
 08.02.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

On Monday (7 Feb 2010), I left Tel Aviv at about 06:30 to make my way to do my annual tasting at the Golan Heights Winery.

Of the 61 wines I tasted, there were six to which I was sworn to secrecy. The only hint I'll give is that two of those six are proving merely superb and the others will turn the local wine scene somewhat on its head. In general, however, this tasting made eminently clear that the winery maintains its consistency, not only in style but in quality as well as in their ability to innovate and surprises us positively over the years. One tidbit about which people have been asking: There will be a 2007 Katzrin, the tasting note for which being one of those that follow. Be there no question but that the Golan Heights Winery remains the leading producer in the country, producing not only wines that are cellar-worthy but also show consistent excellence.

My thanks to senior winemaker Victor Schoenfeld and the entire winemaking staff for arranging and sitting in on the tasting as well. My thanks as well to CEO Anat Rushansky as well as to Arnon Harel, Ayala and others of the winery staff for a fine tasting and their good company. After the tasting several of us adjourned to the restaurant Aluma BaKfar in Ramot Naftali at which we enjoyed lunch. I shall be writing a very positive review of the restaurant in the very near future.

Sparkling Wines

Golan Heights Winery, Brut, Gamla, 2007: Light gold in color, dryer and more tempting than the earlier n.v. release of this wine, with a gently yeasty hint on the nose and palate and opening to show fine citrus and apple fruits. A good mousse, long lingering and sharp bubbles and a note of toasted brioiche on the finish. Drink now-2014. Score 89. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Blanc de Blancs, 2005: Its delicious, its delightful, its delovely. With a long mousse, sharp, well focused and long-lasting bubbles, as brut dry as one could hope for, opens to notes of yeasty white bread, goes on to show tropical and citrus fruits all on a lightly floral background. Long, generous and elegant. Drink now-2018. Score 91. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Rose, Yarden 2008: A sparkling rosé made by the Champenoise method. A blend of about 2/3 Chardonnay and 1/3 Pinot , showing an appealing pink color and medium-bodied.. Brut in its level of dryness, displaying a complex set of aromas and flavors, those including citrus, blueberries, raspberries, dough and flowers on a light mineral background. Just starting to show a light creamy nature which will develop over time and, as I suggested when I first tasted this one about a year ago, I'm looking for a hint of walnuts as the wine continues to develop. Long, sophisticated and elegant. Scheduled for release in about 2014. Drink from release-2020.. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

The White Wines

Golan Heights Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Yarden, 2009: Light gold in color, with a nose replete with tropical fruits, starts off a bit flat on the palate but within moments opens to reveal generous citrus and apple notes all on a light herbal background. Drink now-2014. Score 89. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Gewurztraminer, Yarden, 2009: Rich gold, off-dry, deeply aromatic and lithe, with fine balance between mouthwatering acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate grapefruit, litchi and floral notes all lingering nicely. Drink now-2012. Score 89. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2007: Deep gold, with a near buttery texture and showing a tantalizing hint of spicy oak. Opens with citrus and herbal notes, goes on to reveal pears, papaya and peach blossoms. Shows an appealingly creamy note on the long finish. Drink now or in the next year or two. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Almost burnished gold in color, with buttery, floral and caramel notes on the nose, opens to reveal spicy wood, pineapple, guava and peach fruits, a rich, ripe and lush wine. Long and simultaneously refreshing and complex. Drink from release-2013. Score 92l K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2007: Concentrated and full-bodied, with aromas and flavors of pears, figs, apricots and lemon peel, all with an overlay of spicy, toasty oak. Rich, elegant and persistent, with notes of tangerines and nectarines that come in on the long finish. Drinking well now but best from 2011-2014. Score 91.K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Think of this as a "super-Chardonnay" if you will. Rich, full-bodied and well focused, with generous but not at all imposing oak in fine balance with fruits, spices and acidity. On first attack melon, pears and toasty oak, those yielding to notes of nutmeg and butterscotch, all on a full-bodied but never heavy background and all becoming more subtle on the super-long finish. Drink from release-2015. Score 92. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2007: Full bodied, deep golden with a distinc tint of orange that plays in the glass, reflects generous wood but that in fine proportion to minerals, acidity and fruits. Opens with pears, grilled nuts and pie crust notes, those going on to show ripe fig, citrus and baked apple aromas and flavors. Long and creamy with the oak rising on the finish. Elegance on a grand scale. Meant for cellaring. Approachable on release but best 2011-2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Bright burnished gold in color, full-bodied, opening with a note of butterscotch on the nose. On first attack summer fruits and pears, those yielding to notes of crème brulee. Gentle wood and a near buttery-texture balanced finely with acidity and, from the wood a tantalizing note of tannins. Not a lively wine but indeed complex, mouth-filling and, for lack of a better term, delicious. Approachable from release but don't hesitate to cellar this one until 2018, perhaps longer. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, 2002: Now deep, almost bronzed gold in color, remaining as full-bodied and complex as in its youth but now maturing nicely and today, with its oak nicely subdued, showing only the barest hint of smoky wood, that serving as a backdrop for summer fruits, pears and citrus. Earlier roasted nuts, minerals and a hint of cream continue to play nicely on the palate but looik now for notes of herbs and spices that are creeping in. Drink in the not-too distant future. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, 2006: Rich and supple, deep gold in color, full-bodied but not quite as dense as earlier releases, with abundant toasty oak and vanilla integrating nicely and in fine balance with fruits. Opens in the glass to reveal peach, green-gage plums and mineral aromas and flavors, those hinting at one moment of figs at another of pears. Hints of butterscotch on first attack and, on the long finish notes of spices, all coming together as a thoroughly coherent and contemplative whole. Drink now-2016. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, 2007 (Advance Tasting): My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark, almost bronzed in color, full-bodied, with a generous dose of creamy wood that runs through. Sounds like a wine dominated by wood, but the balance is there, the wood matched at first by notes of butterscotch and then by pear, pineapple, spices, and hazelnuts, all of which come together as a concentrated and well-focused whole. Best from 2011–2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Lighter gold and, although full-bodied neither as dense or as oaky as with past releases. All of which is just fine, for after distinct notes of butterscotch and poached pears the wine opens to reveal citrus, melon and light toasty note that prove both subtle, complex, elegant and long. Approachable on release but best 2011-2018. Score 92. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

The Red Wines-Pinot Noir

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2005: Dark ruby with a hint of clearing at the rim, full-bodied enough to be thought of as fleshy, and with spicy wood and gentle tannins in fine balance with acidity and fruits. Opens with near-sweet, liqueur-like berry aromas and flavors, those yielding in the glass to reveal a crisply dry wine on which you will feel hints of kirsch and dark chocolate, all coming together in a long and generous blackberry-rich finish. Drink now–2013. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2006: Intense ruby toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with well-focused cherry fruits at the core, those opening to reveal plums, dark chocolate and espresso coffee, all leading to a long blackberry-rich finish. Generous, balanced and long, with wood and firm tannins, those nicely integrated. Drink now–2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark and well-extracted, medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tanninsand notes of freshly unearthed herbs, a supple, fragrant and graceful wine. On the nose and palate blackberry and blackcurrant fruits on a background of white pepper, and, on the moderately long finish, hints of sandalwood and black cherries. Drink from release–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from a tentative blend but already showing great promise. Dark cherry red towards garnet, opening with spices and roast herbs, a thoroughly aromatic wine already ripe and concentrated but with fine freshness. On the blackberry, black cherry and licorice notes a light and tantalizing licorice note. Drink from release-2017, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): If the 2008 wine (see the tasting note above) is a baby, this one is merely an embryo, but according to my tasting (think of that as an ultra-sound examination if you like) one with great promise. Super dark ruby towards garnet, generously aromatic, with fine acidity to set off wild berry, black cherry, blackberry and vivid mineral notes. Full-bodied and concentrated yet subtle, with a long, long finish. Drink from release-2019, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

The Red Wines-Nebbiolo

Golan Heights Winery, Nebbiolo, Gamla, 2006: My earlier and quite recent tasting note holds firmly. The winery's first Nebbiolo varietal release. Reflecting its 12 months in French oak, dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with generous but softly caressing tannins. Opens to reveal a tempting array of blackberries, cherries and, in the background from first attack to the long finish notes of licorice and tar. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable now but don't hesitate to cellar until 2013, for as the wine continues to develop it will start to show notes of mushrooms and minerals. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Nebbiolo, Gamla, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Super dark, medium- to full-bodied with gently gripping tannins, showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate plums and raspberries, those opening to reveal blackberries and earthy minerals. A wine that plays on the palate, at one moment showing hints of licorice, at another of black pepper and at yet another dark chocolate. Generous and intriguing. Tentative Score 89-91. Best from 2011. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Nebbiolo Gamla, 2009 (Pre-barrel Tasting): Not yet in barrels but already showing as a fine wine. With a lavender scented nose, full-bodied, with soft tannins and generous blackberry and strawberry flavors, reminds of a very young Barolo still in development. Tentative Score 89-91. Best from 2012. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

The Red Wines-Merlot

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2005: Super-dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with spicy wood and firm mouth-coating tannins in fine balance with fruits. On the nose and palate ripe purple plums and blackcurrants with overlays of smoke and roasted Mediterranean herbs. Long and elegant. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2011-2015. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Almost impenetrably dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and opening to show blackberry and raspberry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of minerals and licorice. As this continues to develop look as well for notes of cigar tobacco. Drink from release–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): The most full-bodied Yarden Merlot in recent years, with gripping but velvety smooth tannins and toasty oak. On first attack ripe raspberries and currants, those making way for light herbal and earthy notes and finally plums and Oriental spices, all culminating in a long, mineral-rich finish. Drink from release–2016. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Kela Vineyard, Yarden, 2005: An absolute powerhouse at barrel tastings but now with its elements coming together nicely. Rich, intense and concentrated, but already showing fine balance between firm but yielding tannins and generous but well-moderated wood and bold aromas and flavors of plum, red currant, blackberry, red licorice and spices, all rising to a long tannic and mineral and tobacco-rich finish. Best 2011–2017. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Tel Phares Vineyard, Yarden, 2005: Showing even better than at earlier tastings and a nice surprise as the wine now opens with a tantalizing chocolate ganache nose. Full-bodied, with softly caressing tannins and jammy blackberry fruits supported comfortably by notes of lightly toasted oak. From mid-palate on notes of raspberries, mocha and sweet cedar notes and, on the long, succulent finish notes of roasted herbs. Drink now-2016. Score 92. (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Kela Vineyard, Yarden, 2006 (Advance Tasting): At this stage its aromas somewhat muted, showing full-bodied, with generous wood and still gripping tannins that need time to settle in. As it opens reveals generous spicy blackberries black cherries and currants, those supported by notes of freshly turned earth. Give this one the time it deserves. Best from 2012. Score 90. (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2006: Dark, almost inky purple, with sweet and smoky oak notes matched nicely by generous but gently mouth-coating tannins. On first attack near-sweet black cherries, those yielding to blackcurrants, blackberries, notes of Mediterranean herbs and on the super-long finish hints of bitter orange peel. Lovely. Drink now-2018. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, full-bodied, with silky tannins and gentle spicy wood influences. Opens to reveal a generous array of ripe red currants, black cherries, mocha and spices, with the tannins rising on the finish. Opulent and bold. Drink from release–2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Kela Vineyard, Yarden, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): My second barrel tasting of this wine and showing no reason to take back the good things I said about it in the past. Dark ruby towards garnet, full-bodied, concentrated and well-focused, showing layer after layer of blackberries, plums, espresso coffee and fresh sage and roasted herbs. Give this one time and it will show hints of leather. An intense wine but with the potential for elegance. Best 2012–2018, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92–94. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Deep, almost inky garnet in color, full-bodied, with chewy but gentle tannins and hints of new wood. On the nose and palate a basic blackberry personality on first attack, that opening to reveal currants, pepper and notes of rose petals. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

The Red Wines-Syrah

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2005: Garnet toward inky-black, full-bodied, with spicy oak and generous soft tannins and fine concentration. Shows fine structure and balance and happily avoids being a blockbuster in favor of elegance. Opens with raspberry and red currant notes, those going on to show generous hints of black pepper, anise and wild berries all coming to a long and generous chocolate and smoky finish. Drink now–2015. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Super dark garnet in color, full-bodied, opens quietly at this stage but goes on to open it the glass to reveal still chewy tannins and spicy wood, those in good balance with fruits and acidity. Dense and powerful. On the nose and palate showing black cherry and blackberry fruits on a background of licorice and black olives, all going to a long meaty finish. This one will cellar well. Best from 2012-2020. Score 92. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Inky and impenetrably dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with tremendous intensity and concentration. Opens slowly in the glass to reveal plum, black cherry and raspberry fruits, those supported very comfortably by Oriental spices, all leading to notes of red licorice on the extra-long finish. Approachable on release but best 2013-2022. Score 92. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. One of the two very best Syrah wines ever in Israel, both by the Golan Heights Winery. Extraordinarily deep ruby, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens with a burst of almost jammy raspberries and kirsch liqueur, those yielding to blackberry, cherry and plum fruits. In the background generous hints of anise and Oriental spices and a hint of freshly tanned leather. Drink now–2018. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Deep, dark and concentrated, with soft tannins and notes of cedar wood. Full-bodied and aromatic, opening in the glass to show generous purple plums, blackberries and black cherries, those yielding to a comfortable hint of crème de cassis. On the long finish notes of earthy minerals and a light and tempting hint of bitterness. Approachable on release but best 2013-2022. Score 93. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yonatan Vineyard, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Another candidate for Israel's best Syrah to date. Almost impenetrably deep garnet in color, a deep and concentrated wine, showing still firm tannins and generous spicy wood but those integrating nicely and showing fine balance and structure. On first attack red plums, cherries and a note of cassis liqueur those yielding to currant and berry fruits all on a background of earthy minerals. From mid-palate on look for hints of small game birds and a note of leather that lingers nicely onto the long, long finish. Best 2012-2024. Score 94. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Tel Phares Vineyard, Yarden, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted a year ago in its embryonic form, and now as an infant, but oh lord, what a beautiful little baby. Deep and concentrated enough to be thought of as muscular but even at this stage gentle and polished. With firm tannins starting to settle in, opens slowly in the glass at this stage to reveal richness, intensity and depth of flavor, opening with blackberry and currant fruits, moving on to plums and wild berries and then opening to reveal minerals, spices, garrigue and sage, all coming to a long and firmly tannic finish. Best 2012–2024. Tentative Score 92–94. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Perhaps not as concentrated or intense as the releases of the past three vintages but already showing the promise to be full-bodied, gently tannic and elegant. Opens with red currants and raspberries on a light peppery background, those yielding to blackberries and herbs, all on a background that hints at one moment of rosemary, at another of black olives and at yet another of sage. Indeed promising. Best from 2014-2028. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

The Red Wines-Cabernet Sauvignon and Katzrin

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2005: Brooding, almost impenetrably dark ruby red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around blackcurrants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Drink now–2018. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvigjnon, Yarden, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins, sweet cedar wood and notes of tobacco integrating nicely. On the nose and palate wild berries, purple plums and currants on a background of spicy oak, all touched with hints of spices, coffee and light mineral-earthy overtones. On the long finish a hint of red cherries that brings a comfortable smile to the eyes. Drink from releaser–2018. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Living comfortably up to its barrel-tasting promise. Medium – to full-bodied (leaning to the full), with soft tannins and sweet-and-spicy wood integrating nicely. An aromatic nose to start with and then aromas and flaors of black currants, wild berries and roasted herbs, all lingering on a mouth-filling finish. Drink from release-2019. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, El Rom Vineyard, Yarden, 2004: Showing almost inky dark garnet, full-bodied, with still-firm tannins and spicy wood well on the way to integrating and already showing elegance and finesse. Look for layer after layer of currant, blackberry and wild berry fruits, those supported beautifully by notes of sweet herbs, and tar, all leading to a near-sweet fruity finish that lingers on and on. Drinking very well now but best 2012-2020. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, El Rom Vineyard, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Full-bodied, with still firm tannins and notes of sweet cedar wood integrating nicely. Opens with a near-chocolate nose, that parting to make way for raspberries and then to aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, wild berries and bitter oranges. Fine balance and structure, with tannins and fruits rising simultaneously on the long finish. Approachable on release but best 2013-2020, perhaps longer. Score 93. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yonatan Vineyard, Yarden, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Generous spicy oak on the nose and on the first attack, that with firm tannins, all just starting to settle in now. Opens to reveal wild berry and currant fruits, those supported nicely by notes of roasted herbs and black olives and then, on the long finish mocha and berry fruits rising together. Best 2012-2020, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, El Rom Vineyard, Yarden, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, deep and powerful, with ripe blackberry, black currant and black cherry fruits. Still in its infancy with the tannins, wood and fruits yet to come together but fine structure indicate promise for a well focused and well structured wine. Give this one the time it needs. Approachable by 2012 but best from 2014-2024. Tentative Score 93-95. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Odem Vineyard, Yarden, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): In its infancy but already showing beautifully. Somewhat lighter than usual Odem releases but don't let that hold you back for the concentration and intensity are both here along with the promise of elegance. On the nose and palate red and black currants, wild berries, abundant but gentle tannins and light notes of spicy cedar wood. Destined for both elegance and complexity. Best 2014-2024, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Deep and dark, a seductive wine with spicy and smoky oak and generous but gently mouth-coating tannins settling in nicely now. On first attack currants, blackberries and black cherries, those going on to notes of cherries, sweet chewing tobacco and mocha, all lingering nicely with tannins and fruits rising comfortably on the finish. Best from 2012-2023. Score 93. (Tasted 7 Feb 2010)

Also tasted were the wines now released in the Golan series, but unless specifically requested here those will hold for one of my columns in HaAretz. And, of course, re-tastings in my own tasting room of older vintages before the deadline of my next books.