Mediterranean and Other Tastings at Carmel (K)
 04.02.2010 ,
 By: Daniel Rogov

This late afternoon and early evening (Thursday, 4 February) I found myself at the Carmel Winery in Zichron Ya'akov, there for the unveiling for journalists of the winery's new prestige blend, the 2007 Mediterranean. We were greeted at the restaurant of the Wine and Culture Center, then to a simultaneous exploration of the winery and tasting of several other wines, those led by senior winemaker Lior Laxer who, if the simple truth be told, is doing a splendid job at Carmel.

As to what's new on the wine front – the winery is switching increasingly from the use of standard barriques of 225 liters to 300 liter barrels, those often referred to as hogsheads. And, finally, reflecting the many positive changes in Carmel, the release of the statistic that the winery produces approximately 11-12 million bottles of wine annually.

My thanks to Lior, Ruth Ben Israel, Adam Montifiore, Amos Ravid, and CEO Israel Ivsan for their courtesies during my visit. Starting off my tasting notes with a somewhat updated version of my earlier tasting note of the Mediterranean, as that was the star of the evening.

Carmel, Mediterranean, 2007: Youthful dark garnet towards royal purple, casting orange and violet reflections, a full-bodied blend of 37% Carignan, 26% Shiraz , 20% Petit Verdot and 15% Petite Sirah and 2% Viogner, each fermented separately and developed for 7 months in oak before blending and passing 8 further months in oak. As I wrote before, this is a seemingly an odds-and-ends potpourri but it does comes together beautifully. Deeply aromatic, on first attack so full of ripe red and black fruits and then opening to show an appealing array of blackberry, raspberry and cassis notes, those supported nicely by not-at-all imposing notes of smoky oak, black pepper and juniper berries. The wine reflects its time in oak with gentle wood influences and abundant but soft and gently caressing tannins. Round, complex and long. Approachable and fully enjoyable now but best 2011-2017. NIS 150. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 4 Feb 2010)

From here it was on to two interesting experiences – the first involving tasting two versions of the Viognier destined for the Regional/Appelation (Ayzorit) series. Both wines were from the Kayoumi vineyard and one was developed entirely in stainless steel while the other is developing in 5000 liter French vats (specifically Radoux vats).

Carmel Viognier, Regional, Upper Galilee, 2009, Version 1 (Tank Sample): Light gold in color, deeply aromatic, and unoaked, with still youthful exuberance highlighting appealing pear, green apple and tangerine fruits, all on a lightly spicy background. Clarity and focus are here, all leading to a long, lively finish. (Tentative Score 88-90). K (Tasted 4 Feb 2010)

Carmel Viognier, Regional, Upper Galilee, Version 2 (Barrel Sample): Deeper gold with orange reflections, smooth and creamy, with gentle wood influences and fine balancing acidity to highlight citrus, lemon meringue, pear and spicy flavors, all coming together in a long and delicate finish. (Tentative Score 89-91). K (Tasted 4 Feb 2010)

With regard to the above, now we have to wait and see how the final blend will be made. Perhaps I'll get a sneak preview of at least a tentative blend when I pay my annual tasting visit to the winery on 18 February. (Adam and Lior, if you are reading this, please take that as a hint/request).

The second experience qua experiment was a tasting of two Shiraz wines, again both from the Kayoumi vineyard, in this case both develaoping in 300 liter casks, but one 100% Shiraz and the other with the addition of 3% Viognier.

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards royal purple, rich, round and aromatic, relying on 100% Shiraz grapes, showing black pepper on the nose, that yielding nicely to aromas and flavors of ripe plum and currant fruits. Still firm tannins waiting to integrate but fine balance and structure and a long finish. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 4 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Blended with 3% of Viognier and what a difference in profiles between this and the pure Shiraz reviewed above. Just a tad darker in color, probably because the joint fermentation of the red and white grapes causes chemical changes that lead not only in the heightening of color but in the phenolics of the wine), but showing its impact primarily in the deftness and subtlety of flavors and aromas. On the nose and palate red cherries, red plums, pomegranates and black pepper. Long and generous with spices and tannins rising on the finish. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 4 Feb 2010)

And here too we will now have to wait and see how the final blend will be made. My guess – a blend that will have between 1.5-2% Viognier.

And then three more wines, these not at all experimental, in fact, two of those final blends now having completed their barrel aging and in stainless steel tanks waiting bottling and the third (the 2008 Viognier) already bottled.

Carmel, Petite Sirah, Regional, Judean Hills, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Made from unwatered and almost untended vines so close to the ground that one can think of these as bush vines*, a dark garnet and deeply aromatic wine with fine concentration and generous spicy notes, those including nutmeg, allspice and cinnamon, those yielding comfortably to cherry and berry flavors and an appealing hint of mint on the long finish. Firm and intense, with gripping tannins needing some time to settle in. Best 2011-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 4 Feb 2010)

*Vines known as "bush vines" are more formally vines pruned by the gobelet system, that involving no wires or other systems of support, in which the gnarled trunk of the vine is kept quite close to the ground.

Carmel, Carignan, Regional, Zichron Ya'akov, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Made from 30-40 year old vines (indeed entitled to be thought of as vieilles vignes by Israeli standards). Dark garnet in color, with generous soft tannins and an appealing influence of spicy wood. On the nose and palate opens with purple plums and currants and then goes to raspberries. Long and generous with the tannins rising on the finish. Best 2011-2015. Score 90. K (Tasted 4 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Viognier, Regional, Upper Galilee, 2008: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. With 25% of the wine developed in oak, the rest in stainless steel, some of the grapes early harvested and other late harvested, a ripe, creamy near full-bodied white showing concentrated citrus, pear and green apple notes, those on a background of dried apricots and, even though crisply dry, a tantalizing honeyed note. Fine balance between fruits and acidity lead to a long and delicate finish. Drink now–2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 Feb 2010)