Tasting the Single Vineyard Wines of Yarden (K) 
 02.11.2009 ,
 By: Daniel Rogov

This morning (2 November 2009) at 11:00, preceding the opening of the Sommelier wine exhibition, the Golan Heights Winery hosted a tasting for wine journalists. The tasting consisted of ten of the winery's single vineyard Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon wines.

I have no complaints whatsoever about any tasting at which each of the wines I sample earn a score of between 92 and 95 points. The next time I meet someone foolish enough to tell me that kosher wines cannot stand up to the best of the world I intend to print this post out and make him/her eat it. With or without mustard!

My thanks to those of the winery who hosted the tasting.

Best
Rogov

Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Vineyard, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Bright burnished gold in color, full-bodied, opening with a note of butterscotch on the nose. On first attack summer fruits and pears, those yielding to notes of crème brulee. Gentle wood and a near buttery-texture balanced finely with acidity. Not a lively wine but indeed destined to be complex, mouth-filling and, for lack of a better term, delicious. Approachable from release but don't hesitate to cellar this one until 2018, perhaps longer. Score 94. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, 2004: Showing as splendidly as ever! Dark garnet toward inky black, full-bodied, with its once firm tannins and generous spicy wood now well integrated and showing soft and caressing. Opens to reveal a tempting array of blackberry, raspberry, plum and cassis fruits, those supported nicely by hints of smoky cedar wood and chocolate, all leading to a gently spicy and notably long finish. Simultaneously complex, concentrated and elegant. Drink now–2018. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Kela Vineyard (formerly known as Sha’al Vineyard), 2005: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. An absolute powerhouse at barrel tastings but now with its elements coming together nicely. Rich, intense and concentrated, but already showing fine balance between firm but yielding tannins and generous but well-moderated wood and bold aromas and flavors of plum, currant, blackberry, licorice and spices, all rising to a long tannic and mineral-rich finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011–2017. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark, almost inky purple, with sweet and smoky oak notes matched nicely by generous but gently mouth-coating tannins. On first attack near-sweet black cherries, those yielding to blackcurrants, blackberries, notes of Mediterranean hers and on the super-long finish a hint of Mediterranean herbaceousness. Drink now-2016. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, 2004: Perhaps the best Syrah ever in Israel. Extraordinarily deep ruby, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens with a burst of almost jammy raspberries and kirsch liqueur, those yielding to blackberry, cherry and plum fruits. In the background generous hints of anise and Oriental spices and a hint of freshly tanned leather. Enjoyable now but best 2011-2018. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Syrah, Tel Phares Vineyard, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Full-bodied, its once firm tannins now turning silky and gently mouth-coating, and integrating nicely with notes of spicy wood. Opens to reveal a complex array of plum, currant and berry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of earthy minerals, and generously peppered game meat with tannins and fruits rising comfortably on the long, round finish. Enjoyable from release-2017. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Syrah, Yonatan Vineyard, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Almost impenetrably deep garnet in color, a deep and concentrated wine, showing still firm tannins and generous spicy wood but those integrating nicely and showing fine balance and structure. On first attack red plums, cherries and a note of cassis liqueur those yielding to currant and berry fruits all on a background of earthy minerals. From mid-palate on look for hints of small game birds and a note of leather that lingers nicely onto the long, long finish. Best 2011-2020. Score 94. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, El Rom Vineyard, 2001: My eighth encounter with this wine and it has never given me any reason to regret all of the good things I have said about it. My most recent tasting note (26 Jan 2009) holds firmly, the only change being an extension of the drinking window. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet-purple, full-bodied, with finely tuned balance between generous well-integrated tannins and judicious oak, this exquisite wine shows complex tiers of aromas and flavors of red currants, berries and spices on the first attack, those opening to include light earthy and herbal overlays. Plush and opulent, with a long, complex finish. Certainly one of the best wines ever made in Israel. Drink now–2017, perhaps longer. Score 95. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2004: As superb now as it has been since first I tasted it from barrels. Full-bodied, with still-firm tannins and spicy wood well on the way to integrating and already showing elegance and finesse. Look for layer after layer of currant, blackberry and wild berry fruits, those supported beautifully by notes of cedar, sage and tar, all leading to a near-sweet fruity finish that lingers on and on. Drink now–2018, perhaps longer.. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 2 Nov 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. Precisely what that word means eludes me but that is what I was humming as I tasted this wine. Still in its infancy but already a seductive wie that shows fine alance between wild berry, currant and black cherry fruits, those on a background that hints at one moment of earthy minerals, at another of hints of sage and at yet another of toasty oak. Ripe and powerful but with great finesse and elegance that culiminates in a finish that goes on and on, seemingly without end. Competes comfortably with the 2001 wine as a nominee for the best wine ever made in Israel. Approachable and enjoyable on release but best 2011-2022, perhaps longer. Score 95. K (Tasted 2 Nov 2009)