Tastings at Ein Hemed: Interrupted By The Rain
 01.11.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Even the most dedicated critic can become cold, wet and discouraged. Yesterday evening (Thursday, 29 Oct), I made my way to the Ein Hemed national park there to attend the annual wine festival of the wineries of the Judean Hills. The drive was pleasant, the stroll from the parking lot of the park to the festival site a delight and, because I had arrived early there was plenty of time to say hello to the winemakers present as they were setting up their stands.

As always the festival had been set up with aplomb and charm, each winery having its own table, the grounds lovely and the air, although a bit damp, clean and refreshing. I started my tastings and those were going quite nicely when the rain started. A few drops made their way through the canvas tenting covering the tables but that simply added a bit of charm to the atmosphere. The drops became heavier but I carried on. All was still charming though, in fact the visitors and winemakers alike taking it all with extraordinarily good grace.

So you'll ask, what made me give up. Simple enough – it was when the raindrops were falling so rapidly that the ink on my pad was running, writing tasting notes became impossible and I began to fear the onset of pneumonia. Truth be told though, I had no real complaints as the crowd was so friendly that it was impossible to be really upset. Heck, I even managed to make my way through the raindrops to pop a few pieces of fine assado into my mouth.

My apologies to those wineries I missed but I will be catching up on those tastings either next week at the Sommelier exhibition or during visits to the wineries in the coming few months. At any rate, following are my notes for those wines I succeeded in tasting. Much fun.

Best
Rogov

Ella Valley Vineyards

Ella Valley Vineyards, Syrah, 2006: Dark, almost inky royal purple in color, full-bodied, with fine balance between still gripping tannins and wood, and just waiting patiently for all of its elements to finish coming together. Syrah, blended with 5% each of Cabernet Sauvingon and Merlot and aged in French oak for 16 months. On first attack currants, wild berries and an appealing loamy note, those opening to reveal hints of bay leaves, juniper berries and mint, all leading to a long and intense finish. Enjoyable now but best from mid-2010–2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2005: Dark and brooding, with once gripping tannins now setting in nicely, this dense wine offers up generous currant and black cherry aromas and flavors. Showing muscular elegance. Drink now–2012. Score 92. K

La Terra Promessa

La Terra Promessa, Dry Emerald Riesling, 2008: Showing somewhat better than at an earlier tasting. Unlike most local Emerald Rieslings, this one is dry and shows only the least hint of sweetness. Damp straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, with aromas ad flavors of citrus, pineapple and spring flowers. Finishes with a generously acidic dose of citrus. Drink now Score 81. (Tasted

La Terra Promessa, Syrah, 2005: Medium-dark garnet, medium-bodied, showing a tempting array of red and black berries along with notes of cassis, smoky oak and earthy minerals. Round and soft, generous and long. Drink now. Score 88.

Nachshon

Nachshon, Pushkin, 2006: An earlier tasting note holds firmly: Ruby towards garnet, an oak-aged blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins that yield in the glass to reveal aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants and spices. Develops an odd acetic aroma in the glass. Sliding rapidly past its peak. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Nachshon, Ayalon, 2004: A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. Oak-aged for 25 months, fully mature now and showing more of an earthy-tarry-tobacco personality than a fruity one, only a few blackberry fruits still making themselves felt. Drink up. Score 82. (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Tzora

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet toward royal purple, with tannins integrated with notes of spicy oak and fruits. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, oak-aged for 18 months, opening with raspberries and red currants, those yielding to red plums, spices and earthy minerals. Soft, round and generous. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shoresh, 2006: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 18 months in oak with a sweet cedar nose. Soft tannins integrating nicely with the oak and opens to show a tempting array of currants, wild berries and purple plums, those matched by notes of minerality and cocoa. Drink now–2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Tzuba

Tzuba, Sangiovese, Tel Tzuba, 2007: Oak-aged for 14 months, showing dark cherry red toward garnet, medium-bodied, soft and round, with fine-grain tannins and floral, blackberry and black cherry fruits. Not a complex wine but an appealing one. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Tzuba, Shiraz, Hametzuda, 2007: Made entirely from Shiraz grapes, gently oak aged and with generous but gently mouth-coating tannins. On first attack huckleberries and blueberries, those parting to make way for blackberries and a temptingly peppery background. Full-bodied, well focused and concentrated. Tempting now but has the structure and balance for cellaring. Drink and enjoy now if you will but best from 2011-2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Tzuba, HaMetzuda, 2006: A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. Deep purple, medium- to full-bodied, with generous, reflecting its 24 months in oak with soft tannins and light notes of spicy wood, those coming together with notes of spicy wood, and opening to show blackcurrants, red and black berries and notes of espresso coffee and red licorice. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Tzuba, Pinot Noir, Tel Tzuba, 2007: Pinot with a distinctly Mediterranean flavor. Dark ruby in color, medium- to full-bodied, with generously caressing soft tannins. On first attack shows floral, mineral and raspberry fruits and then to black cherries, green tea and notes of both licorice and saddle leather. A multi-layered wine. Drink now–2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Tzuba, HaMetzuda, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Dark garnet with purple and orange reflectios, a full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec (60%, 25% and 15% respectively. Full-bodied and concentrated, with still firm tannins and generous wood waiting to settle in but already showing balance and structure that bode well for the future. On first attack purple plums and notes of mocha, those yielding comfortably to an array of blackberry, cassis and orange peel, and on the long finish, notes of red cherries and red licorice. Long, generous and mouth-filling. Best from 2011-2015, perhaps longer. Score 92. (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Katlav

Katlav, Wadi Katlav, 2007: An oak-aged blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvigon, 25% Merlot and 15% Petit Verdot, Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, opens with a medicinal aroma but that blows off rapidly to reveal straightforward black fruits on a lightly spicy background. Not complex but pleasant. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Katlav, Merlot, 2007: Not showing as well as at an earlier tasting. Dark ruby toward garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing black cherry, cola and nutmeg on toasty oak, those yielding on the finish to hints of mocha and sage. Spoiled somewhat by a medicinal note that seems on the ascendant. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Katlav, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark ruby in color, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and light spicy and cedar notes. Opens to reveal a tempting array of blackcurrant, blackberry and purple plum fruits, those complemented by hints of mocha and Mediterranean herbs, all lingering nicely. Drink now–2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Nevo

My first encounter with this micro-winery. Located on Moshav Mata, not far from Jerusalem, the winery produced 2000 bottles from the 2007 vintage and about twice that from the 2008 vintage.

Nevo, Choshen, 2007: A medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (60% and 40% respectively). Aged in 2nd and 3rd year barriques, with chunky, country-style tannins and a good deal of Brett that adds a stinky note, that hiding the black fruits that fail to make themselves felt. Score 70.

Nevo, Merlot, Sapir 2007: Garnet colored, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and notes of spicy wood that run throughout, opens to show a basic berry-black cherry personality. A light medicinal aroma from first attack to the finish. Nothing complex here. Score 74.

Nevo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: A pleasant enough country-style wine, medium-bodied, with chunky tannins and notes of cinnamon from the wood. Opens to reveal blackberry and blueberry fruits. An easy to drink entry-level quaffer. Drink now. Score 81.

Bar Giora

Another winery new to me, located on Moshav Bar Giora in the Judean Hills and currently producing about 4,000 bottles annually.

Bar Giora, Petit Verdot, 2007: Developed for 18 months in 2nd year barrels together with oak chips. Medium-dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins parting to reveal ripe currant and blueberry fruits, those overlaid with notes of sage and white pepper. Appealing even though it finishes rather short. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 86. (Tasted 29 Oct 2009)

Bar Giora, Blended Red, Lisa, 2007: A blend of 65% Petit Verdot, 20% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, the combination probably best known from Australia's Rosemount winery. Medium- to full-bodied, with chunky country style tannins and reflecting its time in used oak barriques with vanilla and smoke, those parting to reveal plum, blueberry and currant flavors. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Tasted 29 Oct 2009)

By this stage my hair, my shirt and my shoes were soaked (as many know, I tend to wear the kind of canvas shoes known in America as desert boots and in Israel as palladium*) and there was no way to continue with anything even resembling formal tasting. Squishing feet and wine tasting simply do not go together. I wandered about a bit, not spitting any longer but enjoying a few wines from Teperberg, Sea Horse and Castel. By then, my taxi had arrived and I was comfortably on my way back to Tel Aviv. At any rate, I look forward to this event next year. One of the better organized and most pleasant tasting events in the country.

*For those not fully in the know, among my various "reputations" is for being probably the last man in Israel who smokes Broadway long cigarettes and wears palladium.