The Wine Festial at Mitzpe Abirim 
 07.10.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

On Wednesday (7 October 2009), somewhere at about 1 p.m. I arrived at Mitzpe Abirim in the Galilee, there to attend the community's annual wine festival. Even getting to Abirim is a treat for it is located in the Upper Galilee, not far from the Lebanese border, about 15 kilometers from Metulla, on roads that take you through some of the most exquisite scenery in Israel

A few words of introduction. A mitzpe is quite literally an outpost, a small countrified community, quite often set on a mountain top. Some of the mitzpes are quite basic (one might even say primitive) and others are quite elegant in a distinctly countrified manner. Abirim is one of the elegant ones, the few streets winding through the community with each of the homes set on its own path off the street and designed so that they will compliment and not clash with the natural environment. Wherever one looks in whatever season the view of the Galilee panoramic, splendiferous and somehow amazingly peaceful. All-in-all, a great place for a wine festival.

Also a fine place to consider staying at one of the many zimmers that can be rented by the day, week or weekend. Access to several of the national parks is convenient and there are several simple but quite good Galilee restaurants in the area. True, this is not a tourism forum but Abirim is well worth considering for a full weekend's escape. For further information telephone 050 4901104. or see, for example, http://www.zimmer.co.il/galil_lang.asp? ... 755&lang=1

And now to the wine festival… Some 18 wineries, mostly boutiques and garagistes took part, each having its wines set in the courtyard of a different home, nearly all manned by the winemakers of the wineries. The day was splendid and this may be the most intimate, warm and friendly wine festival in the country, attracting an audience not only from the Galilee but from Haifa, Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. I did skip several tasting the wines of wineries, several because I had visited quite recently and two because I will be visiting in the near future to do an extended tasting.

Following are my tasting notes for the wines that I tasted, including several from wineries previously unknown to me.

Ramot Naftaly

Founded on Moshav Ramot Naftaly in the Upper Galilee in 2003 by vintner Yitzhak Cohen working at first with winemaker Tal Pelter as a regular consultant but now only as a coilleague sharing advice, this small winery owns vineyards planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, Barbera and Malbec. With a new visitors' center now opened, current production is about 10,000 bottles annually, those in regular and reserve series. The winery will be switching over to kosher production with the 2009 vintage. I visited the winery on 31 Aug 2009 but did not pass up this chance for a re-tasting.

Ramot Naftaly, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: My fourth encounter with this wine and my earlier tasting notes hold firmly. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this garnet-toward-purple, medium- to full-bodied red is showing soft tannins and generous berry, black cherry and currant fruits and, on the background, hints of spices and earthiness that linger nicely. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Syrah, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, with still gripping tannins and generous acidity settling in but still needing a bit of time. On the nose and palate ripe red berry, plum and licorice notes. Best from mid-2010-2013. Score 88. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Duet, 2007: An oak-aged medium- to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot showing gently gripping tannins and lively acidity. Opens to reveal raspberries, cranberries and red plums, those on a background of lightly peppery citrus peel. A tempting quaffer. Drink now-2011. Score 87.(Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Full-bodied, with its once firm tannins and generous spicy wood now well integrated, opens nicely in the glass to reveal cassis and an assortment of berries, those on an appealing background of Mediterranean herbs, licorice and espresso coffee. Complex and elegant and at its peak. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Snir

Founded in 2002 by Danny Stein and located on Kibbutz Snir in the Upper Galilee, the winery relies on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes from the Sha’al vineyards and has released wines in two series Nimrod and Snir. Initial production was of 1,200 bottles and production for 2007 was about 5,000 bottles. There will be no releases from the 2008 or 2009 vintages.

Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nimrod, 2004: Oak-aged for12 months, dark, but not fully clear royal purple, aged in oak for one year, medium-bodied, with soft, well-integrating tannins and plum and blackberry fruits on a lightly spicy background. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Snir, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Nimrod, 2004: Dark garnet toward royal-purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and spicy oak integrating nicely to reveal blackberry, currant and orange peel aromas and flavors. One-dimensional and now sliding past its peak. Drink up. Score 83. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Baram

Located on Kibbutz Baram in the Upper Galilee, this small winery released its first wines from the 2004 vintage. Winery-owned vineyards contain Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. First release was of 1,800 bottles, increasing to about 5,500 bottles from the 2008 vintage.

Baram, Merlot, 2007: Dark ruby towards garnet, developed in oak for 12 months, showing medium-bodied, with soft tannins and appealing wild berry and currant notes. Not complex but round and easy to drink. Drink now. Score 85.
Baram, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Light, almost pale ruby in color, medium-bodied, with barely felt tannin, showing aromas and flavors of black fruits and spices. A simple but pleasant quaffer. Drink now. Score 84.

Baram, Baram Forest, 2007: A medium-bodied blend of 67% Cabernet Sauignon and 33% Merlot, oak aged for 15 months, showing somewhat chunky country-style tannins. Opens in the glass to reveal a basic berry-black cherry personality. An easy-going quaffer. Drink now. Score 83.

Baram, 60, n.v.: A blend of equal parts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvigon made in honor of the kibbutz' 60th anniversary. Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with chunky tannins and a bit of unwanted volatile acidity that tends to give the black fruits a somewhat sour taste. Drink up. Score 78.

Ein Teina

Founded by Yotam Ben-Tzvi on Moshav Givat Yoav on the southern Golan Heights, this small winery released its first wines in 2004. First year’s releases were of 900 bottles, and current production is about 4,000 bottles annually. The winery relies on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes from the southern Golan.

Ein Teina, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Developed in French oak for 12 months, medium-dark garnet in color, showing blackcurrants, black cherries and wild berries on a background of tobacco and fresh herbs. Medium- to full-bodied, with good balance and structure, with a sweet nose and a surprising but quite pleasant note of cloves coming in on the long, round finish. Drink now. Score 88. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Ein Teina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah, 2006: A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Syrah. Oak-aged for 14 months, showing soft tannins and hints of spicy wood, and opening in the glass to reveal red and black berries, cassis and notes of freshly roasted herbs. Round and generous. Drink now-2012. Score 88. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Ein Teina, Merlot, 2007: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins and notes of spicy and vanilla-rich cedar wood. An appealing array of black fruits, bitter citrus peel and Oriental spices, all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2013. Score 88. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Ein Teina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins, generous wood and acidity needing time to integrate but already showing a fine array of currant, blackberry and purple plums, those supported comfortably by a peppery note that comes in on the long finish. Best from mid-2010-2013. Score 88. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Ein Teina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Aged in barriques for 14 months, showing dark garnet towards royal purple. Full-bodied, with still firm tannins needing time to settle down but showing balance and structure that bode well for the future. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those complemented by notes of citrus peel and, rising on the finish notes of dark chocolate and cigar tobacco. Best to date from the winery but give this one time. Best 2011-2015. Score 91. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Achziv

Founded in 2005 by the Guberman family, with Mark Guberman as the winemaker, and located on Kibbutz Gesher Haziv, not far from the city of Nahariya in the Western Galilee, this small winery produces red wines from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot grapes. Current production is about 2,000 bottles annually.

Achziv, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Blended with 10% Merlot, oak-aged for 12 months, an unfiltered wine with its once firm tannins now integrating nicely. Medium-bodied, with spicy wood and currants on first attack, those yielding comfortably to aromas and what seems at one moment to be eucalyptus, the next mint and yet the next licorice. Soft, round and generous lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Achziv, Merlot, 2007: A bit of bottle variation here, some bottles opening with a medicinal aroma but that blowing off within minutes after pouring. Garnet to royal purple in color, blended with 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, medium- to full-bodied, showing wild berry, cassis and blackberry fruits on a gentle background of earthy minerals. Soft tannins and a gentle wood influence lead to a long finish. Drink now. Score 87.

Abaya

My first exposure to this boutique winery. Founded by Yossi Yodfat not far from Mivtsar Yechiam (the Fortress built at Yechiam Fortress by the Crusaders) in the Western Galilee in 2006, the winery relies largely on Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carignan grapes. The winery is currently experimenting with organically and biodynamic grapes. An eco-friendly winery, currently producing 4000 bottles annually.

Abaya, Sangiovese, Hide & Seek, 2006: Lightly oaked, blended with 3% of Cabernet Sauvignon, ruby towards garnet in color and showing soft tannins and the barest hint of spicy wood. Opens to show traditional plum, cherry and wild berry fruits, those with a hint of mocha coming in on the moderately long finish. Not so much a Tuscan Sangiovese but a distinctly Mediterannean one. Not overly complex but a charmer. Drink now. Score 87. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Abaya, Moon A, 2007: A blend of Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (50%, 45% and 5% respectively). Reflecting its 12 months in barriques with notes of sweet and spicy wood and with moderately-firm tannins, opens to show an appealing array of blackberries, blueberries and cassis, those on a background that hints nicely of bitter-sweet chocolate. Round and generous. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Abaya, Midsummer Eve, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, a blend of 50% Carignan, 45% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. With gently mouth-coating tannins and hints of spicy wood, opens to reveal aromas and flavors of blueberries and blackberries, those accompanied by notes of freshly turned earth, roasted herbs and on the finish a distinct note of cigar tobacco. Just enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now-2011. Score 88. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Stern

Founded by Johnny Stern on Kibbutz Gadot in the Upper Galilee, first production from the 2004 harvest was of 1,100 bottles. In 2008 the winery released 7,000 bottles and production for 2009 is estimated at about 9,500 bottles. The winery currently relies on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz and Petit Verdot grapes.

Stern, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Showing full body, soft but mouth-coating tannins and traditional Cabernet aromas and flavors of blackberries and blackcurrants, those on a spicy background. Look as well for hints of licorice and dark chocolate. Best from mid-2010. Score 87. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Stern, Merlot, 2007: Medium-bodied, dark garnet, with soft tannins and reflecting its 12 months in oak with spicy and toasty notes. On the nose and palate blackberries and black cherries, those accompanied by a hint of dark chocolate. Drink now-2011. Score 86. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Stern, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2007: A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, those oak-aged for 13 months. Medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and notes of near-sweet cedar wood, opens to reveal a distinct black fruit personality. Lacks complexity but a good option with small cuts of meat. Drink now-2011. Score 85. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Stern, Or, 2006: A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (40%, 35% and 25% respectively). Developed in French oak for 13 months, dark garnet in color, with once firm tannins now integrating nicely and showing appealing red fruits, spices and a hint of tobacco on the finish. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Stern, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark garnet toward royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and generous blackberry, currant and citrus peel notes supported nicely by hints of Mediterranean herbs. Lingers nicely. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Stern, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Shiraz, 2007: A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz, showing spicy oak and soft, gently mouth-coating tannins that part to reveal blackberry, blueberry and currant fruits, those matched nicely by notes of mocha, tobacco and freshly turned earth. Drink now-2012. Score 87. (Re-tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Lagziel

A new winery to me. Founded on Moshav Even Menachem on the Lebanese border in the Western Galilee by Moshe and Yariv Laziel, the winery released its first wines in 2005. Current production is about 3000 bottles annually.

Lagziel, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Reflecting 20 months of oak-aging in a combination of new and older barriques, a medium- to full bodied red with generous but not overpowering toasted oak notes and chunky tannins. Opens to show blackberry and black cherry fruits, those on spicy background. Not complex but a pleasant little country-style wine. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Lagziel, Merlot, 2005: The winemaker admits that he might have "gone a bit overboard" by letting this wine develop in oak for 30 months. He is correct, for indeed this medium- to full-bodied is dominated by its wood, that largely hiding the black fruits that try hard but do not quite succeed in making themselves fully felt. Drink now. Score 80. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Aneva

Another winery new to me. Founded by Ido and Maya Meyrav on Kibbutz Yiron in the Upper Galilee and currently drawing on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot grapes from the region, the winery released 1,500 bottles from the 2007 vintage and 2,000 from 2008. Projected releases from the 2009 vintage are for 4,000 bottles.

Aneva, 2008: A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, oak-aged for 8 months, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing appealing currant, wild berry and orange peel notes. Not complex but soft, round and easy to drink. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Aneva, 2007: Reflecting its 6 months in barriques with a light spicy note and a gentle toasty overtone, medium-bodied and opening to reveal soft tannins and generous blackberry, blueberry and casis notes supported by hints of milk chocolate and espresso coffee. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Sefad (Tsfat HaAttika)

Safed, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Oak-aged for about 8 months, a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, opens with a medicinal aroma that although it fades somewhat never vanishes and hides the somewhat muddy black fruits that lie underneath. Score 65. K (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Safed, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Medium-bodied, somewhat cloudy garnet in color but opens with a fresh fruity nose and goes on to show appealing black fruits. A simple but acceptable quaffer. Drink now. Score 78. K (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Dror

My first encounter with this winery. Located on Moshav Kfar Shamai not far from the city of Safed in the Upper Galilee, this young winery is currently producing about 2,500 bottles annually.

Dror, Nebbiolo, 2008: Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and oak-aged for 6 months. Light- to medium bodied, light ruby in color, with fresh raspberry, cranberry and blueberry notes, a simple easy to drink quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Dror, Merlot, 2008: Developed in barriques for 8 months, ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied with silky tannins and a hint of spicy cedar. Soft, fresh and round, with plenty of black fruits that make themselves felt nicely. A good quaffing wine. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)

Dror, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing appealing blackberry and blackcurrant fruits on a background that hints at one moment of Oriental spices and at the next of cigar tobacco. Drink now-2011. Score 86. (Tasted 7 Oct 2009)