Wines of the Judean Hills - 29 Wines Tasted (K and Non-K) 
 01.10.2009 
By: Daniel Rogov

On Thursday (1 October 2009), my afternoon and evening were devoted to a tasting of the wines of the wineries of the Judean Mountains, the tasting held for journalists as a preview of the festival to take place in the area on 29 and 30 October.

The wineries, in almost every case represented by the winemakers, offered tastings of two, three or four of their wines at the meeting I attended. A greater number than that will be offered for tasting at the actual event.

With only a few exceptions, these were re-tastings for me and that was fine, giving me the chance to see how the wines were developing. Several surprises awaited though, not the least significant being that several of the wineries chose to show wines from older vintages, not a few of those either already past or rapidly sliding beyond their peak and the other the introduction of one more new winery (Tsfaririm) to the already existing "pack".

Meetings with the winemakers also revealed that several of the smaller wineries will neither be taking part in the 2009 harvest or producing wines from that vintage. I know of another six-eight wineries in the county that will be following this pattern. This "lack of participation" may indeed reflect hard-times for many of the smaller wineries and may also possibly serve as a portent to knowing that a generous handful of boutique and artisinal wineries will be closing their doors within the next year or so. The good news in all of this, so far as I can see, is that none of the truly excellent boutique wineries fall into this non-participatory category.

All in all, I tasted twenty nine wines during my visit, skipping only those that I had tasted or re-tasted within the last few weeks (e.g. the offerings of Flam, Castel, Ella Valley, and most of the Sea Horse wines). I will admit to finding myself somewhat open-mouthed in amazement to realize that not a few of the journalists present limited themselves to tasting a mere 4, 5 or 6 wines. Truth is, I could not help but wonder why some of those people had bothered to come to the event unless it was for the good company of their friends and the meal that was offered. Ah well….that, I suppose is one of the reasons I remain a curmudgeon.

Whatever, following are my notes for those wines tasted at the event. Again, I highly recommend visiting the major event and tasting that will be held towards the end of October.

Best
Rogov

Katlav, Shiraz 2005: Oak-aged for 22 months, medium- to full-bodied, with traditional Syrah leathery, meaty and spicy notes highlighting red plum, cherry and cassis fruits. Hints of licorice and chocolate on the long finish. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Katlav, Wadi Katlav, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet toward royal purple and oak-aged for 24 months, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz (60%, 30% and 10%, respectively), with its onc firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood and opening to reveal blackberry, black cherry and red currant fruits, those on a background of spices and earthy minerals. Tannins and wood rise on the long finish. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shoresh, 2006: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 18 months in oak with a sweet cedar nose. Soft tannins integrating nicely with the oak and opens to show a tempting array of currants, wild berries and purple plums, those matched by notes of minerality and cocoa. Drink now–2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Blanc, Neve Ilan, 2008: Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Made entirely from Chardonnay grapes, developed in French oak, 40% of which were new, and partly in stainless steel vats, drinking quite nicely. Showing medium-bodied, with fine acidity and minerality. On first attack tropical and summer fruits, those followed by notes of citrus, all on a lightly spicy background. Fresh, lively and complex, lingering nicely on the palate, an intriguing Chardonnay wine . Drink now-2011. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Agur, Kessem, 2008: Medium- to full-bodied, garnet towards royal purple, with soft tannins and a gentle hand with the wood, showing round and soft. On the nose and palate blackberries, black cherries and currants, those on a lightly spicy background. Drink now-2012. Score 89. K (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Agur, Special Reserve, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. A medium- to full-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, with firm tannins and generously spicy wood integrating nicely to show appealing blackberry, black cherry and sweet herbs on the nose and palate. Long and generous. Drink now–2011. Score 88. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Agur, Blanca, 2008: Light golden straw in color, a blend of 65% Viognier and 35% Riesling. Perhaps somewhat of an odd couple in the pairing showing aromas and flavors of guavas, pineapples and peaches on a background that hints of bitter peach pits. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Kella David, Dry White, 2007: An unoaked dry blend of 60% French Colombard and 40% Emerald Riesling, showing a floral and spicy nose and flavors of citrus and tropical fruits. Nothing complex here but an appealing entry-level quaffer. Drink up. Score 82. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Kella David, Semi-Dry White, 2007: Semi-dry as its label states, but with the distinct kind of bitterness that one associates with overly roasted coffee or nuts. Shows only minimal fruits. A blend of 60% French Colombard and 40% Emerald Riesling. Score 70. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Sea Horse, Romain, 2007: Showing every bit as nicely now as at barrel and pre-release tastings. Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing an appealing bitter-sweet streak that parts to reveal blackberry, red cherry, pomegranate and sweet red pepper flavors, those supported nicely by notes of rose petals and the tobacco. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, needing time for its elements to come together but already showing fine balance and structure. Drink from release–2013. Tentative Score 90. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Anatot, Alpha, 2006: A blend this year of 60% Shiraz and 40% Merlot, oak aged for 24 months, showing full-bodied, with generous wood and somewhat chunky country-style tannins. On the nose and palate blackberries, blueberries and ripe plums on a background of Oriental spices and saddle leather. Drink now-2011. Score 85. (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Nachshon, Pushkin, 2006: Dark garnet, an oak-aged blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins that yield in the glass to reveal appealing aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants and spices. Develops an odd acetic aroma in the glass. Sliding rapidly past its peak. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Nachshon, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ayalon, 2003: Dark garnet with hints of clearing at the rim and a note of brown creeping in. Aged for 24 months in new and one year old barriques, medium- to full-bodied, its near-sweet tannins and spicy cedar wood matched by berry and currant fruits. Past its peak. Drink up. Score 83. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Hans Sternbach, Cabernet Sauvignon, Janaba Reserve, Hakhlil Valley, 2006: Showing better than an earlier tasting. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, oak-aged for 12 months in new oak and 12 in used oak, dark garnet toward royal purple, full-bodied with once firm tannins settling in nicely now and showing an appealing array of currant and blackberry fruits on a spicy and lightly herbal background and leading to a round and caressing finish. Drink now-2011 Score 86. (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Hans Sternbach, Cabernet Sauvignon, Janaba Reserve, Hakhlil Valley, 2005: Garnet, with a bit of clearing at the rim, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins still controlling the wine but those parting to show blackcurrant, wild berry and spicy oak aromas and flavors. Not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 84. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Hans Sternbach, Nachal Hakhlil, 2007: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, oak-aged for 12 months, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle influences of spicy wood, showing a basic black-fruit personality. Without complexities but a good quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Hans Sternbach, Nachal Hakhlil, 2006: Dark royal purple in color, this oak-aged blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot is showing medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins opening to reveal generous currant, blackberry and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Yehuda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Dark but not completely clear garnet in color, medium-bodied, with chunky country-style tannins but turning smoother as it develops in the glass. Reflecting its 24 months in barriques with generous spicy cedar on the nose and palate and showing berry and black cherry fruits. One dimensional, an acceptable entry-level quaffer. Drink now. Score 82. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Yehuda, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Medium-bodied, with firm, somewhat searing tannins and a good deal of unwanted volatile acidity and only skimpy black fruits. Drink up. Score 76. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Yehuda, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2006: Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and a light spicy wood influence. On the palate blackberries, blueberries and currants supported nicely by hints of freshly roasted herbs. Not complex but easy to drink and appealing. Drink now. Score 84. (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Tzuba, Chardonnay, Tel Tzuba, 2008: 'Tis an honest winemaker who admits that the grapes for this wine were harvested too late and that he thus decided to release it as a semi-sweet wine. Gold in color, medium-bodied, a semi-dry wine whose sweetness is not quite balanced by acidity and whose tropical and dried-fruit flavors are just a bit middled within that sweetness. Drink up. Score 78. K (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Tzuba, Shiraz, HaMetzuda, 2007: Made entirely from Shiraz grapes, gently oak aged and with generous but gently mouth-coating tannins. On first attack huckleberries and blueberries, those parting to make way for blackberries and a temptingly peppery background. Full-bodied, well focused and concentrated. Tempting now but has the structure and balance for cellaring. Drink and enjoy now if you will but best from 2011-2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Tzuba, HaMetzuda, 2007: Full-bodied, with still firm tannins but those integrating nicely with mouth-coating tannins and fruits. An oak-aged blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec showing a nose rich with black fruits and earthy minerals, opening on the palate to reveal currant, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those on a background of citrus peel and Mediterranean herbs. Well-crafted. Approachable now but best 2011-2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Tsfaririm Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2006: Reflecting its 15 months of oak aging with notes of spicy cedar wood and already well integrating tannins. A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot, soft and round but showing good concentration and a fine array of blackberries, blackcurrants and blueberries, those supported nicely by notes of peppery milk-chocolate. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Tsfaririm, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Blended with 10% of Shiraz, opens with generous tannins, those parting in the glass to reveal notes of spicy oak and aromas and flavors of blackcurrants and wild berries, those supported by hints of earthy minerals and a light note of bitter oranges on the finish. Drink now-2011. Score 86. (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

La Terra Promsessa, Syrah, 2005: Medium-dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with appealing smoky oak and earthiness opening to reveal tempting black fruits and minerals. Generous and long. Drink now or in the next year or so Score 88. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Soreq, Grenache, 2007: Dark royal purple in color, full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and opening on the palate to reveal wild berries, black cherries and toasty oak, all vibrant and lively, lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2013. Score 89. (Tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Srigim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrique, 2006: Blended with 5% Petit Verdot, dark garnet in color and reflecting its 18 months in oak with spices and smoke. Once firm tannins now integrating nicely and opening to reveal a generous black-fruit nose, and on the palate blackcurrants, black cherries and mint. On the finish an appealing hint of baking chocolate. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)

Srigim, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Deep royal purple in color, a medium-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Franc 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petite Verdot. Aged for 18 months in French and American barriques, showing generous aromatic oak and chocolate on the nose and showing forward currant and blackberry fruits. Round, soft and caressing. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 1 Oct 2009)