Four Boutiques on Moshav Ramot Naftaly in the Upper Galilee
 05.09.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Monday (31 August) found me at Sde Dov airport quite early in the morning in order to make my way to the Upper Galilee, there to visit four boutique wineries, each of those located on Moshav Ramot Naftaly.

Before getting into the wines – a few words about aesthetics. Located in the area known as Emek Kadesh and on a hill overlooking the Hula National Reserve, with a panoramic view that includes the flats, the Golan opposite all the way to Mt Hermon, and green year round, sometimes with as many as 400,000 birds on their migratory routes, this is certainly one of the most beautiful spots in all of Israel. More than that the region is home to some of the very best vineyards in the country, vineyards that supply wines not only to the boutique wineries in the area but to many of the best wines of the Golan Heights Winery, Carmel, Gail Mountain and Tabor. It makes no difference whether I arrive here during summer, fall, autumn or the dead of winter. I always find myself in awe of nature's beauty. And, to compliment those of the Moshav, the vast majority of homes that I have seen at Ramot Naftaly are aesthetically designed and fit very nicely into the natural scenery.

The wineries I visited were Ramot Naftaly, Na'aman, Three Vines and Amram's. My thanks to the winemakers of each of the wineries and in several cases to their wives as well for their warm greetings, extended barrel tastings, advance tastings and re-tastings, and for their many courtesies during my visit.

Ramot Naftaly

Founded on Moshav Ramot Naftaly in the Upper Galilee in 2003 by vintner Yitzhak Cohen working at first with winemaker Tal Pelter as a regular consultant but now only as a friend sharing advice, this small winery owns vineyards planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Barbera. With a new visitors' center now opened, current production is about 10,000 bottles annually. The winery will be switching over to kosher production with the 2009 vintage.

Ramot Naftaly, Duet, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvigon, aged for 12 months I a combination of new, first year and second year oak. Garnet towards purple, with crushed berries on the nose, showing aromas and flavors of currants, wild berries and spices. A gently tannic medium-bodied and charming wine. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Petit Verdot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep purple in color, medium-bodied, with softly caressing tannins, showing both red and black berries, those on a background of toasty oak. Lively but not exaggerated acidity and notes of spices with fruits and tannins rising on the long finish. Drink from release-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Malbec, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards purple opening with light earthy and tobacco notes on the nose, medium- to full-bodied with gentle spicy wood influences and opening to reveal generous backberry and purple plum fruits. A round, gentle Malbec with distinct Mediterranean overtones. Drink from release-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Barbera, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A rich nose of crushed blackberries and licorice, opens to reveal a medium- to full-bodied, gently tannic red on which blackberries, blueberries, flowers and earthy minerals that make themselves felt nicely. On the generous finish a hint of citrus to add liveliness. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Syrah, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, opening with light leathery, earthy notes on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft already well integrating tannins and appealing blueberry, blackberry and wild strawberry fruits, all on a just spicy enough background and, on the mouth-filling finish a hint of minted chocolate. Best 2011-2014, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet, full-bodied, with generous tannins needing time to integrate but showing fine structure and balance. Opens to reveal an array of blackcurrant, blackberry and wild berry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of roasted herbs. Long and generous. Best 2011-2014. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Medium-dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and vanilla-rich wood settling I nicely. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet fruits of blackcurrants and blackberries, those supported nicely by notes of freshly picked Mediterranean herbs and, on the long finish hints of vanilla and bitter orange peel. Best 2010-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Barbera, 2007: An appealing Barbera medium-bodied, with soft tannins, good acidity and a wild berry and chocolate personality. Opens with a bit of bottle stink but that blows off quickly revealing generous fruits on a light earthy background. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Syrah, 2007: Medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied, with still gripping tannins and generous acidity that need some time to settle in. On the nose and palate ripe red berry, plum and licorice notes , Ripe and appealing now but best from mid-2010-2013. Score 88. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Duet, 2007: An oak-aged medium- to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot showing gently gripping tannins and lively acidity. Opens to reveal raspberries, cranberries and red plums, those on a background of lightly peppery citrus peel. A tempting quaffer. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and notes of spicy wood reflecting its 12 months in oak. Opens to reveal traditional currant and berry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of Oriental spices. Not overly complex but a distinctly Mediterranean wine. Drink now-2011. Score 88. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this garnet-toward-purple, medium- to full-bodied red is showing soft tannins and generous berry, black cherry and currant fruits and, on the background, hints of spices and earthiness that linger nicely. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Ramot Naftaly, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Full-bodied, with its once firm tannins and generous spicy wood now well integrated, opens nicely in the glass to reveal cassis and an assortment of berries, those on an appealing background of Mediterranean herbs, licorice and espresso coffee. Complex and elegant and at its peak. Drik now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman

Founded by Rami and Bettina Na’aman on Moshav Ramot Naftaly in the Upper Galilee, this boutique winery released their first wines from the 2004 vintage. With their own vineyards containing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot grapes. Releases from 2004 were just under 1,000 bottles. Current production is about 10,000 bottles annually. As during past tastings, the Na'aman wines reflect a sophisticated country-style nature.

Na'aman, Pink Floyd, Rosé, 2008: A blend this year of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Vedrot (40%, 40%, 15% and 5% respectively), showing pink towards orange. Medium-bodied and even with a gentle hint of tannins here, with appealing strawberry, cranberry and raspberry fruits. Taste this one blind and you might think you were sipping a Beaujolais Villages red. Lovely with food. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Cabernet Franc, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, a solid wine, with firm tannins and spicy wood notes starting to settle in now, opens to reveal generous plum cherry, blackberry and tobacco notes. Sleek and ripe with notes of espresso coffee on the long finish. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Merlot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Medium dark garnet medium- to full-bodied, with black fruits on the nose but then opening on a bitter note that lingers too prominently and tends to hide the black fruits that fail to make themselves fully felt. Not a bad wine but one that fails to come together as a coherent whole. Perhaps better with time. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, King Crimson, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, softly tannic with appealing spicy cedar wood notes and opening to reveal currant, wild berry and purple plum fruits, those on a lightly spicy background. Not a complex wine but very appealing either on its own or with food. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Deep Purple, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Destined to be a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Not yet a final blend but at this stage already showing dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and a sweet and spicy cigar box note. Opens to reveal a potpourri of black fruits, those on a light background of tobacco and espresso coffee. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: With just a splash of Malbec blended in, showing full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and notes of vanilla and cinnamon from the oak in which it aged. On the nose and palate currant, blackberry and dark chocolate and, on the long finish a hint of black olives. Best from 2011-2014. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Petit Verdot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost dense purple, medium-bodied, with an appealing note of peppermint on the nose and opening to show fresh cassis, blackberry and toasty oak, all lingering nicely with good acidity to keep the wine lush and fresh. Very appealing. Best from release. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Cabernet Franc, 2007: Made entrirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, gently oak-aged, medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely. Opens to show generous berry and currant fruits those supported nicely by notes of roasted herbs. Medium-long with a hint of cigar tobacco on the finish. Drink now-2012. Score 88. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Merlot, 2007: Richly aromatic, with berries and wild flowers on the nose, a full-bodied and generously tannic oak-aged Merlot showing good balance and structure. On the nose and palate wild berries, cassis and hints of bakers' chocolate, those on a background that hints of a fresh forest floor. Deep and long. Drink now-2012, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Deep Purple, 2007: A blend this year of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot (40%, 30%, 20% and 10% respectively). Dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with soft tannins and hints of spices and cedar wood from its barrel aging, opens to reveal generous currant and wild berry fruits, all lingering nicely. Drink now-2012. Score 90. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, King Crimson, 2007: Deep royal purple in color, with roasted herbs on the nose, gently gripping tannins on a medium- to full-bodied frame. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merelot showing a gentle spicy wood influence and opening to reveal currant, wild berry and a note of bitter-sweet chocolate. A good mouth-feel here. Drink now-2012, perhaps longer. Score 88. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Showing better than at an earlier tasting. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with once chunky tannins and generous spicy oak now settling in nicely. On the nose and palate traditional blackcurrants, berries, black cherries and Mediterranean herbs. An appealing country-style wine. Drink now-2011. Score 88. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Na'aman, Petit Verdot, 2007: Dark garnet, with a light herbal nose and still gripping tannins and generous spicy wood that need some time to settle in. Opens in the glass to reveal red and black berries, cassis and notes of bitter-sweet chocolate on a light earthy background. A country-style wine in a most pleasant fashion. Best from mid-2010-2014. Score 89. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines

Founded by Yossi Ben Barak and located on Moshav Ramot Naftaly in the Upper Galilee, this small winery (formerly known as Ben Barak winery) draws on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Viognier grapes from its own vineyards. Wines are produced in two series – Emek Kadesh and Kerem Naftaly, all of which are blends. Production in 2007 was of 4,000 bottles and predicted production for 2009 is 2,000 bottles.

Three Vines, Emek Kadesh 2007: A full-bodied blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 10% Shiraz. Reflecting its 21 months in oak with gripping, somewhat chunky tannins and spicy wood, a distinctly country-style wine, opening to show ripe berry, black cherry and currant fruits. Not complex but quite pleasant. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines, Emek Kadesh, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz, deep roytal purple in color, full-bodied, with gentle tannins and an appealing influence of spicy wood. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries and black cherries, those supported nicely by hints of spice. Moderately long. Drink from release. Score 86. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines, Kerem Naftaly, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet in color, an oak-aged blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 47% Merlot. Smooth, soft and round, opening show berry, black cherry and cassis aromas and flavors, those on a lightly spicy background. Drink from release. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines, Kerem Naftaly, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A blend of near equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle spicy wood influences integrating nicely. On the nose and palate primarily ripe red fruits. Not complex but an appealing quaffer. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines, Emek Kadesh, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Three Vines, Emek Kadesh, 2006: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz (77%, 16% and 7% respectively). Garnet toward inky-black, medium- to full-bodied with firm tannins integrating nicely and showing spicy and near-sweet cedar. Opens to reveal a generous array of currant, berry and plum fruits, those lingering to a rich and long finish. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines, Merlot, 2005: Oak aged for 24 months, now showing deep garnet with a bit of clearing at the rim. Medium-bodied with soft tannins and red plum and raspberry fruits on a lightly spicy and earthy background. Starting to show an unwanted earthy edge. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and a judicious hand with spicy wood. Flavors and aromas of currants, blackberries and cherrues, those supported by hints of herbs and vanilla. On the medium-long finish a hint of green olives. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Three Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet going to brick red and with once firm tannins now softened comfortably. Now fully mature, opens with a bit of bottle stink but that blows off. On the nose and palate ripe plum and berry fruits, those on a background of earthy minerals and roasted herbs. Drinking nicely now but probably singing its swan song. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's

Founded in 2001 on Moshav Ramot Naftaly in the Upper Galilee by grape grower Amram Azulai and his son Ohad, the team has vineyards of Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz and Sangiovese grapes in Emek Kadesh. Production from 2004 was 2,800 bottles and current releases are of about 6,000 bottles annually. The winery releases three series—the barrique-aged Premium and Bresheit (literally “Genesis”) and Ramot Naftaly, the wines of which are made in a combination of oak, glass, plastic and stainless steel containers together with oak chips.

Amram's, Blended Red, Ramot Naftaly, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot (74%, 25% and 1% respectively). Somewhat cloudy garnet in color, with chunky, country-style tannins and a good deal of residual sugar, showing sweet compote-like prune and cherry aromas. Tentative Score 75-77. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bresheit, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, medium-to full-bodied, and destined for several more months of oak-aging. Already showing generous smoky wood and chunky tannins, those turning softer in the glass and showing currant, red berry and spicy notes, the tannins and smoke rising on the finish. Drink from release. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Brieshit, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft tannins, gentle hints of wood and generous wild berry fruits. Not complex but promising to be a good quaffer. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's, Merlot, Ramot Naftaly, 2006: Somewhat cloudy garnet in color, medium-bodied, with lightly gripping tannins. Shows abundant but near-sweet plum and black cherry fruits, the wine taking a bitter turn on the finish. Drink now. Score 83. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Ramot Naftali, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Shiraz, showing chunky country-style tannins, spicy sawdust notes and a too-distinctly earthy aroma that tends to hide the black fruits that try hard but do not succeed in making themselves fully felt. Drink up. Score 78. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, Breishit, 2006: Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 7% Merlot and 3% Shiraz. Oak-aged for 12 months, this medium- to full-bodied, softly tannic wine shows forward blackberry, currant and cassis notes, those on a background of anise-flavored chocolate, along with a hint of sweetness that may not be appreciated by all. Drink now. Score 83. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvignon, Breshit, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, showing spicy cedar wood and soft tannins, opens to reveal currant, wild berry and chocolate notes. Round and smooth, a good entry-level wine. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Amram's, Cabernet Sauvigjon, Premium, 2007: Aged in barriques for 18 months, showing generous but soft tannins and a gentle overlay of spicy oak. Opens to show appealing currant and berry notes, those supported nicely by notes of licorice and tar. Drink now-2011. Score 87. (Tasted 31 Aug 2009)

Best contacts for the wineries reviewed above either to purchase wines or to arrange visits:

Ramot Naftalli
Tel 054 798300
email: yitzhak3@012.net.il

Na'aman
Tel 050 7944881
email: rami@naamanwine.co.il

Three Vines
Tel 052 2660933
email: ybbarak@gmail.com

Amram's
Tel 04 6940039
email: amramswine@gmail.com