Recanati: Lunch and a Tasting (K
 21.08.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

This afternoon (Thursday, 6 August), I met with CEO Noam Jacoby and Senior Winemaker Gil Shatsberg of the Recanati Winery for lunch and a tasting.

Before going into the wines, a few notes about the meeting. I recently wrote that I do not attend wine events held at the home of winery owners or CEO's. Nor do I dine with winemakers or winery representatives in their homes. I hold to this rule because I believe rather strongly that there is a certain level of intimacy that should not develop between critics and those whose products they are criticizing. In my opinion accepting "at-home hospitality" crosses the line. I am in a decided minority among wine critics within Israel but I will stay with this rule as it feels right to me.

Why then will I sometimes join those some people for tastings at restaurants, those sometimes held for a group of journalists sometimes for me alone? Simple enough - such tastings offer an additional opportunity to taste or re-taste wines and to talk with the winery representative in an air that does not violate the "distance" that should exist between the two "sides". True, at group tastings, I am well aware that someone is trying to sell something and for that reason I focus out rather easily all that is extraneous to my needs. I can also easily focus out the additional "pleasantries" that may be forthcoming as simply being part of the games that people must play. If anything, those games rather amuse me.

On a one-to-one basis all of this is even easier and that largely because the people that do occasionally invite me to such restaurant tastings know me well enough to realize that any sales spiel will do nothing but irritate and because they have the good taste to let me taste in peace and to ask the questions I want to ask. And, not least of all, because some of these are genuinely nice and knowledgeable people and the exchange between us over a meal can be rewarding in both a social way and in the acquisition (from both sides) of new information. Those people also know me well enough to realize that when/if they produce a bad or mediocre wine, I will write that they produced a bad or mediocre wine. Many of them also know that the next time we meet other than at the winery the lunch or the coffee will be on my account. That's why the gods and publishers give critics budgets to spend on such things.

Also to be noted, such meetings are only rarely the entire basis of permanent and/or published wine notes. In many cases I have tasted the wines earlier and I almost invariably re-taste some of the wines involved on the same or next day, that second tasting held blind in my own tasting room. With no apologies to anyone at all, that is also what I did today because this is a good way to make sure that no outside bias is coming into play.

With specific regard to today, chef Victor Gluger of Chloelys did, as so often he does, a splendiferous job and his tasting menu was very much appreciated. As to the wines, my tasting notes follow and will speak for themselves. My thanks to Noam and Gil for their courtesies and their very good company.

Best
Rogov

Recanati, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2008: Developed partly in mostly 1 year old barriques and partlyl in stainless steel, all on its lees for 6 months, light gold in color, medium-bodied, with an appealing note of spicy oak to highlight the citrus and summer fruits, those with light hints of pepper and juniper berries. On the long and generous finish a tantalizing note of bitter citrus peel. Drink now-2012. NIS 90. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Aug 2009)

Recanati, Special Edition, 2008: A new blend for this wine – in this case of 40% Shiraz and 30% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a gentle note of spicy wood and vanilla reflecting its 6 months primarily in American oak. A seductive wine, smooth and polished, opening nicely to reveal blueberry, black cherry and plum fruits, those with appealing hints of tasted coconut and bitter orange peel on the finish. Easy to drink and at the same time showing complexity and elegance. Drink now-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 6 Aug 2009)

Note with re the 2008 Special Edition: The wine is going for about NIS 70 in Israel and at that price well worth buying a case. Anticipating a question and for the record, this one will not be exported.

Reserve, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Medium-to full-bodied, dark, almost impenetrable garnet, opens with black fruits and a gentle note of spicy wood. Goes on in the glass to reveal red berry and light leathery and peppermint notes. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Aug 2009)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005: Living up nicely to its earlier promise. Deep royal-purple, full-bodied, with firm, still rough-edged tannins, those integrating nicely with light spicy wood and fruits to show fine balance and structure. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, this is a big, rich and bold wine, with concentrated layers of currant, blackberry, anise and cedary oak flavors. Drink now–2013. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 6 Aug 2009)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): My fourth encounter with this wine and holding its own very nicely indeed. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot. Full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely and showing currant, blackberry and cherry liqueur aromas and flavors. Generous toasty oak here still holding firmly, but that, with the tannins, are settling in nicely to show a simultaneously intense but round and elegant wine. Approachable and enjoyable now but consider holding this one for another year or so. Best from mid-2010-2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Aug 2009)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): With its once firm tannins now settling in nicely and showing fine balance with spicy wood and fruits, showing very well indeed. Dark garnet in color, full-bodied but with a remarkable sense of "lightness" as it sits on the palate, opens with a berry-cherry nose and then goes on to show aromas and flavours of currants, red cherries and wild berries, those on a background of sweet cedar and dark chocolate. Remarkably approachable despite its youth but still cellar-worthy. Drink from release-2014, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Aug 2009)