Barkan - Two New Release, Both Excellent (K) 
 05.08.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

This afternoon I attended the press unveiling of two wines from Barkan – their 2006 Superieur and their 2007 Carignan. The tasting was led by winemakers Ed Salzberg, Yotam Sharon and Irit Boxer, the first of whom studied in California, the second in France, and the third in Australia. The tasting, held before food was placed on the tables, was held at chef Eyal Shani's Salon restaurant in Tel Aviv.

Barkan is the second-largest winery in Israel with current production at 7.5–9 million bottles annually and projected growth to 10 million by 2010. At 1500 contiguous dunams owned jointly by the winery and the kibbutz, Barkan's is the largest single vineyard in the country. The winery is also developing a vineyard of 150 dunams at Mitzpe Ramon in the Negev Desert. Barkan is also the parent company of Segal Wines which has its own vineyards (including several of the country's best) in the Upper Galilee.

I must comment that after the tasting a light meal was served, that of six small courses prepared by chef Shani and his staff. The meal, like the restaurant, was a delight and Shani demonstrates once again that he may well be one of the most idiosyncratic but very best chefs in Israel, his dishes always surprising in flavor, texture and creativity but never shocking. I shall be returning soon to write a formal review.

My tasting notes are based on tasting each wine twice, once at the formal event and later this evening blind against similar wines in my own tasting room. My tasting notes for the wines in question follow. My thanks to CEO Shmuel Boxer and the Barkan winemakers for their courtesies.

Best
Rogov

Barkan, Carignan, Reserve, 2007: True to the characteristics of the Carignan grape an exuberant wine with a distinct Mediterranean flair. Dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied, reflecting its 10 months in French oak with well integrated soft tannins and sweet cedar wood. Opening in the glass to reveal blackberry, wild berries and plums all on a background of spices and dark chocolate. Blended with 8% of Cabernet Franc, made from 20 year old vines and boasting an appealing note of minerals that comes in and linger nicely on the finish. Drink now-2012. Excellent value for money at NIS 77. At its best with lightly spicy food and charming enough to make it worth buying a case of 12. Score 89. K (Tasted twice with consistent notes 4 Aug 2009)

Barkan Superieur, 2006: A full-bodied blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot aged for 18 months in primarily new French barriques. Dark ruby towards garnet, opens with generous oak and firm tannins, those subsiding in the glass and opening to reveal a light note of vanilla from the wood and then traditional Cabernet blackcurrants and blackberries, those along with notes of blueberries and mint and at what one moment seems to be a hint of lead pencils and another a cigar box note. Well crafted. Drink now-2013. NIS 225. Score 90. K (Tasted twice with consistent notes 4 Aug 2009)