Sea Horse Winery - Chenin Blanc, James 2008
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 By: Daniel Rogov

 Years ago, when the Israeli wine industry was in its infancy, someone decided that planting Chenin Blanc would be a good move. To tell the truth, at the time the idea was not a very good one, most of the dry white wines being produced from this grape being tart and lean and characterized by either a musty or a too marked asparagus overlay.

Happily some of those vines have now matured and are in their third decade. When cut back to reduce and concentrate the fruit, some of these vines are producing grapes of enviable quality. Ze'ev Dunie of Sea Horse winery released his first varietal Chenin Blanc, James (named in honor of Israeli wine-making icon Ronnie James). That 2007 wine was fine. The winery is just now releasing its 2008 edition and that one is absolutely splendid.

Yesterday I tasted the 2008 wine for the first time. I also took that as an occasion re-tasted the 2007 My tasting notes for both wines follow. The 2008 wine, produced in a n edition of 4000 bottles, will be on sale at the winery starting on 3 July and the price per bottle is NIS 88. Also available by visiting the winery are Sea Horse's red wines from 2006 and 2007, those at a 15% discount. As always, it will be courtesy to phone the winery at 02-5709834 to arrange one's visit and tasting.

Best
Rogov

Sea Horse, Chenin Blanc, James, 2008: A surprisingly full-bodied Chenin Blanc but what a happy surprise, for this rich and stylish wine is on its way to showing a tempting array of fig, white peach, almond, mineral and cardamom notes, all on a background of heather and minerals. If Sea Horse's 2007 Chenin Blanc might have called to mind the better dry wines of this varietal from South Africa, this one would make a fine competitor to a well made Vouvray. Drinking nicely now but best from mid-2010-2014. Score 91. (Tasted 24 Jun 2009)

Sea Horse, Chenin Blanc, James, 2007: My earlier tasting notes hold firmly. Made from old-vine Chenin Blanc, with drastic cutting back to concentrate the crop, and fermented and developed sur lie in three-year-old barriques. Rich, crisply dry and well focused, with tangy mineral, chamomile, grapefruit, white peach and nectarine aromas and flavors, those supported very nicely by hints of figs and ginger. At the same time tangy, lively and elegant. Drink now. Score 89. (Re-tasted 24 Jun 2009)