Carmel - The Selected Series, 2008 (K) 
 09.06.2009
 By: Daniel Rogov

Let's not kid ourselves – critics love few things more than attending tastings of the wines of Petrus, Krug, Chapoutier, the Domaine de la Romanee Conti or others of the wines we consider part of our search for a holy grail. Alas, critics do not always find themselves in either Xanadu* or in Shangri-La*, places associated with earthly paradise.

Away from humor and wishful thinking. however, today (Monday, 8 June) was a day of tasting wines ranging in price from 5 for NIS 100** (about US$4.00 per bottle) to some costing "as much" as NIS 40 per bottle. The wines were tasted blind and, in order to eliminate what might be thought of as "price bias", were matched by similar varietal or blended wines costing up to NIS 100 per bottle.

If there was a surprise waiting it was in the wines of the Selected Series of Carmel. Once again not kidding ourselves, for a good many years the Selected wines (known as Vineyard in the USA) were pretty poor. Never quite "terrible" but quite often truly mediocre. There is no question but that in recent years the Selected wines have shown improvements and it seems that the 2008 wines represent continued development in the direction of quality. This is the first year, for example, that the series contains a sparkling wine and it is also the first year in which the wines are no longer mevushal (pasteurized).

The wines in the Selected series may not be for the most sophisticated drinkers, but it is important to realize that from a point of quantity, this remains the best selling brand in Israel. Perhaps equally important, it is a brand that has been around for 30 years and its now continued improvement bodes well for both the industry and for entry-level wine drinkers.

Best
Rogov

Carmel, Sparkling, Extra-Dry, Selected, n.v.: A super-simple bubbly (one day I may bother to find out from what grapes it was made), more frizzy than sparkling, called extra-dry but actually with a distinctive hint of sweetness. Lemon, lime and papaya fruits here, the sweetness not at all offensive. Nothing complex here but an acceptable aperitif. NIS 39. Drink now. NIS 44. Score 80. K

Carmel, Carignano, Young Selected, 2008: So deep royal purple in color in this wine that one almost expects it to glow in the dark (I checked. It does not). Light in body, off-dry and lightly frizzante, with a low alcohol content of 5.5%, wine is packed with blueberry, blackberry and black cherry flavors. The kind of wine to serve at parties with lots of young people in attendance. To tone down the sweetness, serve as well chilled as you would a white wine. NIS 27. Drink now. Score 82. K

Carmel, Moscato, Young Selected, 2008: About the same color as ginger-ale and just about as frizzante but with its 6% alcohol content definitely a wine, with its generous sweetness set off by lively acidity. My guess is that the young and those just "getting into wine" will find this one peachy-keen, especially when served after having been placed in the freezer until just before ice-crystals begin to form. (Be sure though not to keep it in the freezer too long as true freezing may cause the bottle to explode). NIS 27. Drink now. Score 80. K
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Selected, 2008: Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a hint of what "feels like" spicy oak, opens to show generous blackberry, black cherry and wild berry fruits. A crowd pleaser that sits comfortably on the palate. NIS 32-35. Drink now or in the next year or two. Score 84. K

Carmel, Merlot, Selected, 2008: Medium-bodied, with somewhat chunky tannins, a pleasant country-style wine with blackberry and black cherry fruits on a lightly spicy background. Not complex but with its appeal and at its best with grilled, well spiced meats. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 32-35. Score 84. K

Carmel, Selected, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2008: Garnet towards royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with gently gripping tannins and a hint of spicy wood to highlight aromas and flavors of black fruits and earthy minerals. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 32-35. Score 84. K

Carmel, Cabernet-Merlot-Shiraz, 2008: Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins. On the nose and palate an interesting mélange of red and black fruits, plums and berries dominating nicely and lingering comfortably. Just enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now-2011. NIS 32-35. Score 85. K

Carmel, Emerald Riesling, Selected, 2008: A near twin to last year's release. Light, flowery and aromatic with green apple and citrus notes, its moderate sweetness balanced nicely by fresh acidity. Drink now. NIS 28. Score 83. K

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Selected, 2008: Light and easy, a light straw colored and lively wine with a core of citrus, pineapple and ripe peaches. Nothing complex but a good summer-time quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K

*Xanadu is far more than the name of a Broadway play. Under that name (also known as Shang-tu) this was the superbly luxurious summer capital of Kublai Khan's Yuan Dynasty in China. As to Shangri-la – a fictional land made famous in the novel Lost Horizon (James Hilton), a valley in the Himalayas in which all were permanently content, where the people lived long and gentle lives – in short, an earthly paradise. As to Brindisi, a city in my opinion so ugly and depressing that the only reason for its existence is to give one the privilege of leaving it as quickly as possible.

**As to wines at"five for one hundred Shekels", what is there to say about wines that cost so little that the cost of the bottle, the cork, the label, the shipping expenses, the distribution expenses and the overhead expenses of places selling them is far higher than the cost of the wine in the bottles? To answer my question – not much!