Ella Valley Vineyards: An Informal Tasting (K)
02.06.2009
By: Daniel Rogov
A most pleasant lunch today with talented winemaker Doron Rav Hon of Ella Valley Vineyards and several wine-writing colleagues. For me at least the purpose of the meeting was not so much a chance to taste but to re-taste various wines, some of which are just now making their way to market and to have a quiet discussion about wines in general, Rav Hon's outlook on the future and perceived outlooks on what is happening in wine writing today (perhaps because of general cutbacks in staffing, two major local newspapers have just cancelled their wine columns). Considering that I consumed (as opposed to spitting) the wines at HaMakom Shel Basar (Neve Tzedik) with fried calamaris, beef carpaccio, and a just fatty enough entrecote steak, pommes de terre au gratin, freshly made super-thin chips, and super-thick, super-tasty onion rings, hardly a formal tasting but certainly enough to confirm my earlier and quite recent notes which follow.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Blended with a 10% of Semillon, the wine oak-aged in small part, showing light gold in color with lively and crisp acidity. Opens with notes of kiwis, guava and grapefruit, those supported nicely by light hints of freshly cut grass, all with just enough complexity to grab our attention. Drink now. Score 88. K
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Dark royal-purple, medium- to full-bodied, blended with 5% Merlot, with tannins and wood in fine balance with fruits. On first attack black currants, blackberries and a light earthy overlay, those opening to reveal spicy oak and hints of dark cocoa. Long, generous and elegant. Drink now–2011. Score 89. K
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vineyards' Choice, 2005: Full-bodied, with moderately firm tannins, a gentle wood influence, and fine balance. Blended with 10% of Merlot, this soft, round wine opens with near-sweet berries and spices, those yielding to reveal lush currant and blackberry aromas and flavors. Drink now–2013. Score 91. K
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2005: Dark and brooding, with still-gripping tannins, this dense wine offers up generous currant and black cherry aromas and flavors. Showing muscular elegance. Drink now–2012. Score 92. K
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2004: Blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauvignon, deep royal-purple toward garnet in color, a firm but round and well-balanced wine showing black cherry, black currant and spicy cedarwood, all coming to a long finish on which the fruits rise nicely. Drink now–2011. Score 90. K |