Golan Heights Winery: My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes (K) 

 09.05.2009
On Monday, 4 May, I left Tel Aviv at 06:00 to make my way to the Golan to visit the Golan Heights Winery, there re-tastings, new tastings, advance tastings and barrel tastings. After a pleasant breakfast and visits to several newly planted and several soon to be planted vineyards we made our way back to the winery, there to take a tasting that will remain in memory for quite some time. With four stations completely set in advance of our arrival and sixty some wines to be tasted, this was, as the winery is so often capable of demonstrating, a tasting at the highest professional standards.

Among the highlights of the tasting were a 2007 Chardonnay horizontal and verticals of different releases of the Yarden Merlot (2000-2008) and the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon wines (1988-2008).

Also a few surprises – the upcoming release for example of a 2008 Yarden Sparkling Rosé and several Nebbiolo tastings. As reflected in my tasting notes, there is no question but that the Golan Heights Winery remains the "mover and shaker" in the wine industry and comfortably maintains its position as the very best winery in the country.

My thanks to senior winemaker Victor Shoenfeld, to CEO Anat Rushansky and to Arnon Harel as well as to the winemaking staff of the winery who were so helpful in arranging this tasting. And my sincere sympathies to those who had to wash and then polish all of those wine glasses.

Best
Rogov

Two Sparkling Wines, Two Viogniers and a Sauvignon Blanc

Gamla, Brut, n.v.: Made by the Champenoise method, a light- to medium-bodied, light golden straw blend of 50% each Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. A generous mousse when poured, sharp long-lasting bubbles and clean aromas and flavors, opening with citrus and apples and going on to hints of cherries. With crisp acidity to keep it lively, a good but not overly complex bubbly. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Sparkling Rosé, 2008 (Advance Tasting): The first of several surprises that awaited me at this tasting, a sparkling rosé made in the Champenoise method. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, at this early stage showing dark pink and medium- to full-bodied. Brut in its level of dryness, displaying a complex set of aromas and flavors, those including citrus, blueberries, raspberries, dough, and flowers on a light mineral background. Don't count on seeing this on the market for 4 – 5 years yet and by then it will have lightened somewhat in color, will have maintained its freshness and fruits but will show somewhat more dense and creamy. I'd even be willing to water that this one will offer up a hint of walnuts on its finish as it continues to develop. Long, sophisticated and elegant. Score 91. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Post-Script to the Above Note: Until the early 1990's the winery produced a sparkling rosé in their Gamla series. Although never truly exciting, the wine made an excellent summertime quaffer. The new Yarden wine, as can be seen above is a "far, far better thing they do".

Yarden, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Light golden straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, a crisply refreshing wine with just enough complexity to catch our attention. On the nose and palate generous green apple, lime and grapefruit, those complemented nicely by hints of pine needles and freshly cut grass, all lingering nicely on the finish. Drink now–2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Viognier, 2007: Medium-bodied, showing a bare and tantalizing hint of spicy oak, opens with citrus and light herbal and peach blossom notes, those going on to litchis, pears and papaya, all coming nicely and showing an appealing creamy note on the finish. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Viognier, 2008 (Advance Tasting): True to the varietal traits and showing a light floral nose and then notes of spicy wood, tropical and summer fruits, those including pineapple, guava and peaches. Rich, ripe and lush, with a long simultaneously refreshing and complex finish. Drink from release -2013. Score 92. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Chardonnay – A 2007 Horizontal Tasting

Golan, Chardonnay, 2007: Light gold in color, light, bright and refreshing, showing crisply dry with citrus and tropical fruits with an appealing flinty-mineral overlay. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Gamla, Chardonnay, 2007: Light gold, light- to medium-bodied, with citrus, peach and melon fruits on a pleasing light mineral background. Not a lively wine but crisp, clean and delightful. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Chardonnay, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Medium-dark gold in color, full-bodied, with vanilla-rich wood on first attack but that integrating nicely in the glass to show a lively and complex wine. On the nose and palate melon, figs and ripe peaches, all coming together as a complex but most refreshing whole. Long and mouth-filling. Drink from release-2012. Score 90. (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Full-bodied, deep golden with a distinct tint of orange that plays in the glass, a wine reflecting generous wood but that in fine proportion to acidity and fruits. Opens with pears, grilled nuts and pie crust notes, those going on to show ripe fig, pineapple and baked apple aromas and flavors. Long and creamy with the oak rising on the finish. Elegance on a grand scale. Meant for cellaring, approachable on release but best 2011-2016. Score 92. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Katzrin, Chardonnay, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark, almost bronzed in color, full-bodied, with a generous dose of creamy wood that runs through. Sounds like a wood-bomb but the balance is there, the wood matched at first by notes of butterscotch and then by pear, pineapple, spices, hazelnuts, all of which come together as a concentrated and well focused whole. Best from 2011-2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Pinot Noir – A Mini-Vertical: 2004-2008

Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2004: Super-dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with firm but well-integrated tannins and showing a generous array of blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits, those supported very nicely by hints of pine nuts. On the fruity tantalizing hints of earthiness and anise. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2005: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. Dark ruby, full-bodied enough to be thought of as fleshy, and with spicy wood and gentle tannins in fine balance with acidity and fruits. Opens with near-sweet, liqueur-like berry aromas and flavors, those yielding in the glass to reveal a crisply dry wine on which you will feel hints of kirsch, dark chocolate and lightly smoked meat, all climaxing in a long and generous blackberry finishing. Drink now–2013. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Intense ruby toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with well-focused cherry fruits at the core, those opening to reveal plums, dark chocolate and espresso coffee, all leading to a long blackberry-rich finish. Generous, balanced and long, with wood and tannins nicely integrated. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Showing fuller-bodied and more tannic than at an earlier tasting but remaining supple, fragrant and graceful. On the nose and palate near-jammy blackberry and blackcurrant fruits on a background of white pepper and, on the moderately long finish, hints of sandalwood and black cherries. Drink from release–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Pinot Noir, Marom Galil Vineyard, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deeply aromatic, a lighter than usual style Pinot from Yarden, showing red berries, cherries, sage and minerals. Medium-bodied, with light tannins that linger nicely through and lead to a long persistent finish. Drink from release-2016. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Pinot Noir, Ein Zivan Vineyard, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, ripe black cherries, plums and spices and picking up a mineral edge on a long finish. Ripe, pure and fleshy. Drink from release-2016. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Two Nebbiolo and one Sangiovese Wines

Yarden, Nebbiolo, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing nicely since a barrel tasting a year ago. Smooth and supple, with licorice, tar and plums on the nose, those yielding to blackberries, strawberries and freshly picked porcini mushrooms. Complex for a young-vine wine and surprises now with a generous note on the long chewy finish. Possibly a varietal release; possibly destined as a blending agent. Worthy of our attention. Tentative Score 88–90. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Nebbiolo, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Still in its infancy but already showing full-bodied, with still gripping, almost chunky lip-sealing tannins, but showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. On first attack purple plums, those yielding to blackberries and earthy minerals and, on the long finish notes of prunes and what seems at one moment licorice and at the next dark chocolate. Again, possibly a varietal relese, possibly for use as a blending agent. Whatever, worth watching carefully. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Gamla, Sangiovese, 2006: Showing more developed but fully consistent with an earlier tasting. Aromas and flavors of raspberries, strawberries and cassis, those on a medium-bodied frame with soft tannins and showing appealing hints of spicy oak and sawdust, all leading to a fresh finish. Drink from release.. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

The Yarden Merlot Vertical – 2000-2008

Yarden, Merlot, 2000: Somewhat less full-bodied than in its youth but still rich and tempting and showing generous plum, berry and black cherry fruits as well as in overlays of chocolate, with a hint of citrus peel on its finish. Fully mature, continuing to drink nicely but not for further cellaring. Drink now. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, 2001: Dark, almost inky purple in color, continuing to show the generous spicy wood that it did in its youth but with the tannins now soft and well integrated. On the nose and palate ripe plums and blackberries complemented by chocolate, spices and vanilla. On the long finish a hint of earthiness that is on the rise. Not for further cellaring. Drink now. Score 89. K

Yarden, Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, 2001: My most recent tasting not holds firmly. Deeply aromatic, reflecting its 14 months in mostly new French barrels with generous spicy oak, that in harmony with ample but seamless tannins, all coming together in a dense but plush and luxurious wine. Full-bodied, showing appealing aromas and flavors that open in layer after layer, those including blackberries, near-jammy plums, chocolate, fresh herbs and, on the long finish, a rising hint of Oriental spices all with a light herbal bitterness, that offset comfortably by a hint of orange peel. Drink now–2014. Score 94. K (Tasted in my own tasting room 6 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, 2002: Dark garnet, with once-firm tannins well integrated with now gently spicy wood. Showing plum and berry fruits on herbal, citrus peel and white chocolate notes. Still drinking nicely, showing deep and concentrated but with first clear signs of aging. Not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, 2003: Dark garnet, full-bodied, and with generous tannins, a well-polished wine showing a generous array of cherry, currant and berry fruits, those supported nicely by layers of Mediterranean herbs, vanilla and a gentle hand with smoky oak. On the long finish a tantalizing hint of green olives tiptoes in nicely. Drink now–2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, 2004: Dark garnet toward purple, medium to full-bodied, with tannins and spicy wood now integrated nicely and showing a generous array of berry, cassis and plum fruits, those supported by minerals, sweet cedar wood and, rising on the medium-long finish, an overlay of spices and tobacco. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, 2004: Showing as splendidly as ever! Dark garnet toward inky black, full-bodied, with once-firm tannins and generous spicy wood integrating nicely now. Opens to reveal a tempting array of blackberry, raspberry, plum and cassis fruits, those supported nicely by hints of smoky cedarwood and chocolate, all leading to a gently spicy and notably long finish. Simultaneously complex, concentrated and elegant. Drink now–2018. Score 93. K (Re-tasted in my own tasting room 6 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Medium to full-bodied, with spicy wood and firm mouth-coating tannins in fine balance with fruits. On the nose and palate ripe purple plums and blackcurrants with overlays of smoke and roasted Mediterranean herbs. Long and elegant. Drink from release–2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Kela Vineyard (formerly known as Sha’al Vineyard), 2005: An absolute powerhouse at barrel-tastings but now with its elements coming together nicely. Rich, intense and concentrated, but already showing fine balance between firm but yielding tannins and generous but well moderated wood and bold aromas and flavors of plum, currant, blackberry, licorice and spices all rising to a long tannic and mineral-rich finish. Best 2011–2017. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Tel Faraj Vineyard, 2005: Fully faithful to earlier tasting notes. Full-bodied, with caressingly soft tannins and an abundance of blackberry, violet and lightly toasted oak on first attack, those opening to raspberries, mocha and sweet cedar, all building to a long and succulent finish. Drink now–2014. Tentative Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Showing much as at barrel tastings. Almost impenetrably dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and opening to show blackberry and raspberry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of minerals and licorice. As this continues to develop look as well for notes of cigar tobacco.. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Kela (Sha'al) Vineyard, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins and an appealing underlying note of spicy and vanilla rich oak that plays throughout and yields nicely to an array of wild berry, cassis,bitter citrus peel and, on the long finish a note of milk choicolate. Best 2011-2016. Score 91. (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2006: Made from organically raised grapes. Deep, dark and mysterious, as the wine is still in its prenatal state, but already showing sweet, smoky and spicy oak well matched by mouth-coating tannins. Opens to reveal sweet black cherries, those followed by blackberries and currants and hints of Mediterranean herbs. Drink now–2015. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): The most full-bodied Yarden Merlot in recent years, with gripping but velvety smooth tannins and toasty oak. On first attack ripe raspberries and currants, those making way for light herbal and earthy notes and finally plums and Oriental spices, all culminating in a long mineral-rich finish. Drink from release-2016. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, full-bodied, with silky tannins and gentle spicy wood influences. Opens to reveal a generous array of ripe red currants, black cherries, mocha and spices, with the tannins rising on the finish. Opulent and bold. Drink from release-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Merlot, Kela Vineyard, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, concentrated and well-focused, showing layer after layer of blackberries, plums, espresso coffee and fresh sage and roasted herbs. Give this one time and it will show hints of leather. An intense wine but with the potential for elegance. Best 2012-2018, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

The Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical – 1988-2008

Whatever they say, the Israeli wine industry remains a young one and among the very positive surprises that await from time to time is the continued re-discovery that many of the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon wines are aging even better than predicted. Equally positive is that as the wines do mature they manage to hold to the standards set and predicted when still in their youth, and often even from tastings made while they were still in the barrels. My tasting notes for many of the wines in this vertical hold remarkably consistent with recent and older tastings. Worth keeping in mind, especially with regard to drinking windows of the more mature vintages, that the wines tasted were all cellared under ideal conditions
As I sipped some of these at the winery and others later in my own tasting room (so noted in my notes that follow), my thoughts cold not help but slip sometimes not to Israel and not to California but to parts of Bordeaux and even of Tuscany. Not at all a bad direction for the unconscious to take us during tastings!

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting) A component tasting from the Elrom vineyard. Super-dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied with still gripping tannins, those in fine balance with wood and fruits. On first attack a generous array of currants and blueberries, those yielding to spicy plum and near-sweet cedar wood and, on the long finish a broad array of spices. Best 2012-2022. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from a component from Yonathan vineyard. Already showing a clean, fresh mineral note that runs through. Full- to medium-bodied, with soft, nicely integrating tannins and gentle hints of sweet-and-spicy wood, opens to reveal generous ripe currant and berry fruits. Approachable on release and capable of cellaring until 2019. Tentative Score 89–91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Even better than at an earlier tasting. Full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and sweet cedar wood integrating nicely. On the nose and palate ripe black and red berries and currants on a background of spicy oak, all touched with hints of spices, vanilla and light mineral-earthy overtones.Drink now–2018. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Brooding dark ruby-red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around black currants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Drink now–2018. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2004: Full-bodied, with still-fi arerm tannins and spicy wood well on the way to integrating and already showing elegance and finesse. Look for layer after layer of currant, blackberry and wild berry fruits, those supported beautifully by notes of cedar, sage and tar, all leading to a near-sweet fruity finish that lingers on and on. Drink now–2018. Score 94. K (Re-tasted in my own tasting room 6 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, with generous wood in fine balance with acidity and fruits. Opens to show currants and crushed berries, those yielding to cranberries, ripe purple plums and dark chocolate, all on a background of spices, asphalt and earthiness. Drink now–2016. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2003: Intensely dark ruby toward royal-purple, full-bodied, with caressing tannins and a moderate oak influence. Opens with black currants, blackberries and minerals, goes to meaty, earthy and herbal aromas and flavors, and then to spices and a long and elegant fruity finish. Firmly structured with excellent grip and complexity. Drink now–2020. Score 95. K (Re-tasted in my own tasting room 6 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Aged in French oak for 18 months and showing generous but gentle wood influence. Soft mouth-coating tannins support generous blackberry, black cherry and plum fruits and, on the long finish, hints of Oriental spices and a light herbal-tobacco sensation. Drink now–2014. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: Dark garnet, full-bodied, with once firm tannins and spicy oak now settled in nicely and opening to show generous and aromas of red currants, black cherries and berries on first attack, those giving way to layers of sweet cedar, vanilla, leather and, on the long finish, hints of Mediterranean herbs. Rich, generous and elegant. Drink now–2012. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2001: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet-purple, full-bodied, with finely-tuned balance between generous well-integrated tannins and judicious oak, this exquisite wine shows complex tiers of aromas and flavors of red currants, berries and spices on the first attack, those opening to include light earthy and herbal overlays. Plush and opulent, with a long, complex finish. Among the best ever made in Israel. Drink now–2013. Score 95. K (Re-tasted in my own tasting room 6 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Full-bodied with finely tuned balance between wood, tannins and fruits. Showing plum, wild berry and spicy currant fruits, and reflecting its 18 months in oak with appealing overlays of vanilla, cedar, tobacco and cocoa. Drink now–2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: Full-bodied, still youthful, with firm tannins and generous oak well balanced by currants, blackberries and spicy cedarwood, those opening to plums and black cherries, all matched nicely with vanilla and an appealing herbal overlay followed by a long finish. Drink now–2011. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: With once-firm tannins now softened, showing fine balance between wood and fruits, opens beautifully on the palate. Deep royal-purple toward garnet in color with delicious aromas and flavors of black berries and cherries on a background of vanilla and sweet cedar wood, as well as a hint of freshly roasted coffee on its long finish. Drink now-2011. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1998: Full-bodied, deep in color and intense, with aromas and flavors of currant, plum, black cherry, vanilla and lightly toasted oak. Finely tuned balance between fruits, wood and tannins. On the long finish mineral-earthy overtones and an appealing hint of anise. Developing beautifully. Drink now. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1997: This traditional Yarden blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc is now fully mature but continues to show an overall firm structure and good balance between soft tannins, fruits, wood and acidity. Plenty of Cabernet currants along with blackberries and plums on the first attack, those yielding to gentle overlays of spices and Mediterranean herbs. Not for further cellaring. Drink now. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1996: A dark-garnet blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, this concentrated and intense medium to full-bodied wine with sweet tannins is now showing plum, currant and cherry fruits, those complemented nicely by vanilla and anise on the mid-palate, and appealing herbal sensations on the finish. Drinking very nicely. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995: The wine needs time to open in the glass but doing so it reveals luscious layers of aromas and flavors of black currants, plums, tobacco and vanilla. Full-bodied, with concentrated but well-integrated tannins, and a hint of raspberries on the long finish. Still delicious but now fully mature and not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1994: As 1994 was not a great vintage year in Israel, this wine never attained the heights of the best of this series. Medium-bodied, it shows flavors of stewed prunes, black fruits and floral-earthy overtones. Fully mature, drinking well but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993: No surprises here, this now 16 year old wine still drinking beautifully. Dark royal-purple, full-bodied, concentrated and powerful wine, showing graceful maturity having attained enviable levels of roundness, depth and complexity along with impeccable balance and an elegant bouquet. Silky tannins that give the wine just the right bite, flavors that unfold comfortably on the palate. Drink now-2011. Score 94. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent tasting notes - 4 May 2009 at the winery and 6 May 2009 in my own tasting room)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992: Full-bodied, with fully integrated tannins and abundant black fruits, vanilla and appealing herbal, earthy, and tobacco overlays, this well-balanced and generous wine shows a moderately long, near-sweet finish. Drinkable and even with a certain charm but clearly past its peak. Drink up. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1991: Deep purple and medium to full-bodied, the wine continues to reveal traditional Cabernet aromas and flavors of black currants, cedar wood and black cherries along with herbal-mineral overtones on the finish. Sliding past its peak. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1990: When young, this superb wine showed almost massive tannins and intensity, but due to its excellent structure and good balance the wine has maintained its rich concentration along with its traditional black currant, oak and vanilla aromas and flavors, those overlaid by aromatic cedar, leather and tobacco, and a remarkably long finish. Fully mature, still drinking nicely but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1989: Fully mature but continuing to be delicious, complex and elegant, showing aromas and flavors that open seemingly without end on the palate. Look for blackberries, cherries, coffee, leather, toasted sourdough bread, smoky oak, vanilla and a hint of tobacco. Drink up. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1988: In its 21st year now and therefore no complaints whatever. Darkening and starting to brown at the rim, and with dark fruits, currants, vanilla and spices now clearly overlaid with aromas and flavors of damp earth, herbs and smoked meats, opens and drinks nicely for 15 minutes but then fades rather quickly in the glass. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden Syrah – 2005-2008

Yarden, Syrah, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Showing much as at barrel tastings. Garnet toward inky-black, full-bodied, with spicy oak and generous soft tannins, showing fine structure and balance and happily avoiding being a blockbuster in favor of elegance. Opens with raspberry and red currant notes, those going on to show generous hints of black pepper, anise and wild berries all coming to a long and generous chocolate and smoky finish. Drink from release–2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Syrah, Tel Faraj Vineyard, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Full-bodied with now silky tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely. Opens to reveal a complex array of plum, currant and berry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of earthy minerals, and generously peppered game meat with tannins and fruits rising comfortably on the long round finish. Drink from release–2016. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Syrah, Tal Faraj Vineyard, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Still in its infancy but already showing fine balance and structure. Still tight, gripping and intense tannins but those settling in nicely with creamy and spicy oak. With fine balance, opens even now to reveal blackberry, blueberry and red currant fruits, those on a background of generously peppered smoked meat and roasted herbs. Give this one time and it will show notes of saddle leather and mocha. Drink from relese-2018. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2009)

Yarden, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Not so much an infant as it remains in embryonic form but one need have no fear for this wine which is already showing its potential for future development. With firm tannins just starting to settle in, opens slowly in the glass at this stage to reveal richness, intensity and depth of flavor, opening with blackberry and currant fruits, moving on to plums and wild berries and then opening to reveal minerals, spices, garrigue and sage, all coming to a long and firmly tannic finish. Best 2012-2020. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 4 May 2009)

One Afternote

Following the Syrah portion of my tastings there were four special tastings awaiting. With regard to those I have taken an oath (well, at least given my word), not to write until the winery is ready to announce these wines. No coaxing will work, for I fear that should I reveal these wines on my next visit to the winery (or on some dark night on a back-street in Tel Aviv) my right ear will be cut off. Having no desire to resemble Vincent Van Gogh, I will therefore say only that anyone thinking that the winery has "nothing new" to offer is going to be in for some very happy surprises