Dalton: My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes (K) 

 06.05.2009

This Sunday morning (3 May) I made my way to the Upper Galilee to visit and do re-tastings, advance tastings and barrel tastings at the Dalton Winery. Before my tasting notes, several general comments…

First of all, if you've never visited here, an expedition will be most worthwhile as the visitors' center is quite pleasant indeed, part set indoors, part on a lovely green lawn and a genuinely warm greeting awaits people on arrival. Of course I always suggest phoning in advance to let a winery know when you will be arriving (almost invariably guarantees a warmer welcome and a broader tasting). No less important, no matter by what route you travel to the winery, you will be passing through much of the most exquisitely beautiful countryside that the Mediterranean basin has to offer.

As to the wines, winemaker Na'ama Mualem continues to do a fine job, avoiding blockbusters but producing wines from the winery's highest to lowest series, that are generous and mouth-filling, her moderate use of oak going a long way to show wines with fine balance. Of special note is that I find the wines of Dalton particularly food-friendly. No less important, many of these wines offer excellent value for money.

Oh yes……I don't know what anyone else will have to say, but I was delighted to learn that starting with the 2009 vintage the winery will start once again produce their unoaked Chardonnay, a wine that I always found particularly well suited not only to my personal palate but to the climate and much of the cuisine of the region.

The winery has a new internet site at http://www.dalton-winery.com/ Worth pursuing.

My thanks to Na'ama, Alex Haruni and CEO Moshe Haviv for their warm welcome, their good company throughout the day and especially for a fine tasting. My notes follow in the order of the tasting.

Best
Rogov

Dalton, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2008: An unoaked white, developed on its lees in stainless steel tanks. The color of damp straw, light- to medium-bodied, showing crisp and refreshing with its grapefruit, pineapple and gooseberry fruits complemented nicely by notes of stony minerals and freshly cut grass. Drink now-2010. Score 88. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Fumé Blanc, 2008: With the addition of 9% Viognier to add body, medium-bodied and reflecting its 4 months in oak with light hints of spices and a tantalizing smoky note. On the nose and palate citrus fruits, nectarines and what at one moment seems like papaya and another like mango. Round and generous. Drink now-2010. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2007: Developed in French barriques for 4 months, showing light gold in color, with a tantalizing note of toasty oak to highlight crisp citrus, apple and quince fruits and, blossoming on the finish to show hints of cantaloupe melon. A fine food wine, lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Viognier, Reserve, 2007: Perhaps the Israeli Viognier most loyal to the grape to date. Fermented partly with wild yeasts, developing in barriques for four months on its lees, showing intense, vibrant and complex with spice, floral, fig and melon aromas and flavors. Deeply aromatic and rich with a long, broad finish. Drink now–2011. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Viognier, Reserve, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Light gold in color, fermented with wild yeasts and highly aromatic. Rich ripe and generous, showing appealing honeyed nectarine and pineapple fruits all with a hint of pepper. Rich and harmonious. Approachable on release and will cellar nicely until 2013. Score 91. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Rosé, 2008: As has become traditional at Dalton, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes with a very short skin contact. Peach-blossom pink, with wild berry and cassis fruits matched by an appealing hint of grapefruit peel. Off-dry and lively, fine on its own or a good match to fish, seafood and chicken salads. Drink now. Score 87. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Canaan, White, 2008: A floral blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay with a bit of Muscat tossed in. Off-dry, with its sweetness set off by natural acidity and showing pleasant citrus and mango flavors and aromas. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Canaan, Red, 2008: Dark royal purple, medium-bodied, softly tannic, a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, the rest of Petite Sirah and Shiraz. Light tannins and good acidity in fine balance with spicy purple plum and blackberry fruits. Drink now. Score 85 K. (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Canaan, Merlot, 2008: Deep ruby toward garnet, medium-bodied, reflecting its 4 months in used oak with light notes of spicy wood, soft tannins and generous plums and blackberries, all on an appealingly spicy background. Drink now–2011. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Canaan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: Dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and a bare hint of spicy wood, showing cassis, raspberries and red plums, those opening to show notes of green olives and mint. An appealing Mediterranean wine. Drink now–2011. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Barbera, 2007: Dark ruby toward garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a bright and lively set of cherry, berry and citrus peel aromas and a background of light spicy oak. Aged in used Frenc oak for 10 months, showing generous fresh fruit on a medium finish. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Barbera, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple, show somewhat generous acidity on first attack but that resides (and will do so further with time) and opens to reveal a gentle hint of spicy oak to highlight red currant and cherry fruits. Finishes on an appealing red licorice note. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Merlot, 2007: Lightly gripping tannins on a medium- to full-bodied frame, showing fine balance and reflecting its 10 months in oak with generous but gentle sweet cedar. Opens to show generous wild berry, cassis and spices, all lingering nicely. Drink now-2011. Score 88. K. (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Merlot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Still in its infancy but already showing dark garnet and deeply aromastic. Medium- to full-bodied, with gentle wood influences to highlight blackberries, black cherries and chocolate-coated citrus peel. Long and mouth-filling. Drink from release-2013. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Just complex enough to grab the attention, showing ripe and distinctive for cherry, blackberry, blueberry and herbal aromas and flavors framed by gentle notes of sweet-and-spicy oak. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet in color, opens with a fruit-rich nose, goes on to show generous wild berries, blackcurrants and spices, those a medium- to full-bodied frame with gently gripping tannins and light cedar notes. Drink from release-2013. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Shiraz, 2007: Made entirely from Shiraz grapes, a distinctly New World wine, fruit forward, medium- to full-bodied, with generous but not-at-all overpowering oak and soft, near-sweet tannins in fine balance with fruits. At first sip a virtual attack of berry and plum fruits, those yielding on the palate to blackberries and peaches (yes, peaches!) and an array of spices. Long and generous. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton Estate, Shiraz, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet with purple reflections, full-bodied, with softly caressing tannins and gentle notes of spicy wood. Opens to show spicy black fruits complemented by hints of saddle leather and black tea. Drink from release-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Alma 2006: A full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (56%, 25% and 19% respectively), showing soft tannins and a black fruit nose. Opens to reveal wild berries, purple plums and notes of chocolate and vanilla along with a hint of jammy sweetness on the medium-long finish. Drink now-2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Alma, 2007: Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, a full-bodied blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Franc. Developed in French barriques for 14 months, showing gently mouth-coating tannins and light notes of sweet cedar wood, opens with ripe black and purple fruits, those on a background of chocolate and sweet chewing tobacco. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2014. Score 90. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Zinfandel, 2006: As has become traditional at the winery, a single vineyard wine. Blended with about 7% of Merlot but fully faithful to the variety, with full-body, wild berries, plums, vanilla and notes of white chocolate and cinnamon, all with a bare and tantalizing hint of sweetness. Aged in new American barriques for 12 months, showing fine balance between sweet and spicy oak, notes of black pepper, soft tannins and fruits. 15% alcohol here but not a hot spot to be found. Drink now–2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Zinfandel, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Deep, almost impenetrable garnet in color, developed in new American oak and blended with about 7% Merlot. Generously aromatic, with gently gripping tannins and not at all imposing oak notes, those in fine balance with black and red fruit, those including red currants, blackberries, blueberries and huckleberries, all on a generously spicy background. Although the wine boasts a 15.5% alcohol content it manages to keep nicely in balance and shows elegance. Score 90. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Zinfandel, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, blended with 12% of Petite Sirah, oak aged in 70% new French oak for 16 months, showing fine balance between wood, soft tannins and fruits. On the nose and palate ripe wild berry, blackberry and boysenberry fruits. Elegant and polished, generously mouth-filling without ever feeling heavy. Drink from release-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Shiraz, Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet in color, opening with an appealing bitter-nutty nose, that going on to show spicy wood and gently mouth-coating tannins. On the palate a generous array of black and purple fruits, those complemented nicely by notes of freshly tanned leather and cigar tobacco. Best 2010-2014. Score 91. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton,Shiraz, Reserve, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Blended and fermented together with 6.5% Viognier, the blend developed in 60% of New French oak, showing forward blackberry, currant and purple plums, those matched by a generous note of black licorice. Long, concentrated and, given time, to show elegance. Best starting in 2011. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Merlot, Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Oak aged for 18 months, dark, youthful royal-purple in color, full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins integrating nicely with light spices and vanilla from the oak in which it is aging. Opens to reveal ripe and generous red plum, raspberry and coffee aromas and flavors, those supported nicely by a tantalizing hint of cigar tobacco. Long, ripe and generous. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Merlot, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Developing in French barriques, half of which are new, showing soft tannins, a gentle influence of spicy cedar and generous wild berry, purple plum and cassis notes. Finishes with hints of tobacco and Mediterranean herbs. Drink from release-2013. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tassted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Showing much as at an earlier tasting. Super-dark in color, firmly tannic but with fine balance and structure between wood, tannins and fruit that bode well for the future. A full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine, with dense blackberry and blackcurrant fruits, notes of freshly roasted coffee and gentle layers of currants, spices, green olives and cedar wood. Drink now–2013. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards youthful royal purple, showing still firm tannins and generous spicy wood but with fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. Opens to reveal traditional Cabernet blackcurrants and blackberries, those supported nicely by notes of tobacco and chocolate. Long and mouth-filling. Best from 2011. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 3 May 2009)

Dalton, Matatia, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A new release for the winery, a Bordeaux blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Developed in new French oak, showing deep and dark but not at all mysterious. On first attack aromas of mint, tar and a hint of iodine, those remarkably and perhaps surprisingly pleasing. Yields in the glass to reveal generous blackberry, blackcurrant and bitter orange peel notes and finally on the long finish hints of espresso coffee. With fine balance between wood, acidity, tannins and fruits, a thought-provoking and delicious wine. Produced in a limited edition of 6,000 bottles. If I had to find a single word to describe the wine that word would be "scrumptious". Approachable and enjoyable on release but best 2011-2016. Score 93. K

Dalton, Liqueur Muscat, n.v. (Advance Tasting): Deep gold towards bronze in color, a late harvest wine fermented for a short time, the fermentation stopped by the addition of neutral spirits and then developed in old barrels. At this stage showing generous sweetness, that balanced by natural acidity and, on the nose and palate honeyed summer fruits, citrus and even notes of guava. A contemplation wine to sip quite slowly not with dessert but in the late hours of the evening. Eventually to become part of a solera system. Score 91. K