Carmel - A Very Special Tasting (K)
 15.07.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

returned home about ten minutes ago from the official unveiling of two wines from the 2007 vintage – Carmel's Limited Edition and Yatir's Yatir Forest. I have followed these wines from early to later barrel tastings and then on to pre-release tastings, so there were few surprises in store for me. I must say though that the re-tasting of wines this good invariably puts me in a rather good mood, so let me describe them briefly by playing on the words of Cole Porter – "they're delicious, they're delightful, they’re delovely". Or, perhaps because I'm of a certain age and still in an especially good mood, Frank Sinatra's - "It was a very good year"*.

Also as part of a thoroughly professionally organized tasting were eight other wines.

As a point of potential interest, I could have posted these tasting notes as long as seven days ago. Even though I had posted barrel and pre-release tasting notes even earlier than that, I held off until after the actual unveiling because at least some of my colleagues become very upset when I post early. And who, after all, would I be to upset those colleagues?

Best
Rogov

Limited Edition 2007 and Yatir Forest 2007

Carmel, Limited Edition, 2007: Full-bodied and concentrated but not at all bombastic, developed in Burgundy-sized barrels (45% of which are new), showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 5% each of Merlot and Malbec, and 2% Cabernet Franc, with a generous array of blackcurrant, blackberry and dark plum fruits, those supported by gentle notes of spicy oak and fresh acidity. Needs time for all of the elements to come together, so even though approachable now best from 2011–2020. NIS 250. Score 93. K

Yatir, Yatir Forest, 2007: Dark garnet towards royal purple, a full-bodied, softly tannic blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% and 4% each of Petit Verdot and Merlot, those reflecting 16 months development in barriques with notes of spicy cedar wood and of roasted almonds. On first attack blackcurrants and blackberries, those making way for notes of purple plums, bittersweet chocolate and licorice. On the long and generous finish tannins and fruits rise comfortably together. Approachable and enjoyable now but at its elegant best 2012-2021. NIS 250. Score 93. K

Eight More Wines Re-Tasted

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Regional, Upper Galilee, 2009: Made entirely from Sauvignon grapes, intentionally unoaked. A crisply clean and nicely aromatic wine, light gold in color, with tropical and citrus fruits on a background of stony minerals, citrus peel and a hint of freshly cut grass. Refreshing and with just enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now. NIS 45. Score 89. K

Carmel, Viognier, Regional, Upper Galilee, 2009: Made entirely from Viognier grapes, this year from the Olive Tree vineyard, some early harvested and others late harvested, and with about 30% developed in oak, the rest in stainless steel. Aromatic, medium-bodied, crisply dry and with lively acidity to highlight aromas and flavors of apricots, white peaches and green apples, all lingering on a long, generous and lightly floral finish. As the wine matures look for notes of crème brûlée sneaking gently in. Drink now-2012. NIS 55. Score 90. K

Carmel, Petite Sirah, Old Vines,Regional, Judean Hills, 2006: A big wine, full-bodied, deep garnet toward royal purple, with gripping tannins just starting to settle down but showing fine balance between tannins, wood and fruits. Ripe plum, blackberry and boysenberry notes on a background of minerals, minted chocolate and spicy cedarwood. Drink now–2012. NIS 80. Score 90. K

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2006: Deep garnet with hints of royal purple and casting orange and green reflections, a concentrated wine, full-bodied and deeply extracted yet showing remarkably soft tannins and spicy wood that almost melts on the palate. On first attack plums and currants, those making way for black cherries, hints of saddle leather and notes of asphalt. On the long and generous finish with tannins rising a comfortable overlay of freshly roasted herbs and cedarwood.. Drink now-2016. NIS 120. Score 93. K

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009: With half of the wine developed in used barriques for three months and the remainder in stainless steel, a wine that is simultaneously crisply refreshing and complex, with just the barest hint of the wood to add to its charm. Light golden in color, with fine aromatics and delicious balancing acidity to highlight grapefruit, kiwi, green apple and melon notes all on a background of sea shells and flint. Drink now-2012. NIS 75. Score 91. K

Yatir, Viognier, 2009: Light gold with orange and green reflections, medium-bodied but with remarkable mouth-filling abilities. A luxurious, rich and ripe wine with notes of guava, butter, pear and peach fruits all with a tempting floral overtone and a tantalizing hint of bitter almonds on the long finish. Wisely unoaked to highlight the juicy fruits and to keep them in fine balance. Drink now-2012. NIS 80. Score 92. K

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: At a previous tasting this wine was in a deep sleep (call that a dumb phase if you like) but now is opening beautifully. Impenetrably dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins and gentle wood influence integrating nicely. On first attack black fruits and spices, those parting to show notes of fresh herbs, black olives and bittersweet chocolate. Drink now–2015. NIS 120. Score 91. K

Yatir, Shiraz, 2007: Showing even more intense than at an earlier tasting. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, with gripping tannins and generous but not-at-all imposing spicy wood integrating nicely now. On first attack almost peppery plums and blackberries, those followed by red fruits, dark chocolate and a note of sweet chewing tobacco. Give this one the time needs. Approachable now but best 2012-2017. NIS 125. Score 93. K

*As to the Sinatra lyrics, I will not comment on my age, on small-town girls, city girls or blue-blooded girls but I will cite his:

And now I think of my life as vintage wine
from fine old kegs
from the brim to the dregs
And it poured sweet and clear
It was a very good year

Those wanting to hear the song in its entirety will find it at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Byna9YnVzCM