Tabor: My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes (K)

05.04.2009 ,

By: Daniel Rogov

This morning I made my way to the Galilee to visit and do tastings at the Tabor Winery.

Founded in 1999 by several grape-growing families in the village of Kfar Tabor in the Lower Galilee, this modern winery draws on white grapes largely from their own vineyards near Mount Tabor and on red grapes from the Upper Galilee. Initial production was of 20,000 bottles and current production is close to 1,000,000 bottles annually. With 800 dunams (about 200 acres) of vineyards coming on line under long-term contracts, with additional vineyards in the planning stage, and with the winery undergoing major physical expansion, long-term planning is to raise production to between 3–6 million bottles annually.

Founded in 1999 by several grape-growing families in the village of Kfar Tabor in the Lower Galilee, this modern winery draws on white grapes largely from their own vineyards near Mount Tabor and on red grapes from the Upper Galilee. Initial production was of 20,000 bottles and current production is close to 1,000,000 bottles annually. With 800 dunams (about 200 acres) of vineyards coming on line under long-term contracts, with additional vineyards in the planning stage, and with the winery undergoing major physical expansion, long-term planning is to raise production to between 3–6 million bottles annually.

European-trained winemaker Arieh Nesher is currently releasing wines in three series. The top-of-the-line label is Mes’cha, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. A second label, Adama, reflects the type of soils in the vineyards. In reading the labels it may be useful to know that adama translates into soil; gir is chalky soil; terra rossa is red earth; charsit is clay and bazelet refers to volcanic soil. There is also a more basic series released under the label Tabor.

Several years ago, the Central Bottling Corporation, which is the local producer of Coca-Cola, bought into Tabor and in 2005 increased its holdings in the winery to 51%. That change seems to be entirely for the good, not only for the winery but for the industry in general, and in addition to a fine name for producing fine wines the winery is one of the industry leaders in providing wines that many will agree are excellent value for money. Also a rather nice feeling to visit a winery that started off very nicely and seems to be doing it just a bit better every year!

My thanks for their courtesies during my visit to all who took part in the tasting – winemaker Arieh Nesher, CEO Oren Sela, Tsvika Bar, Mooki Weinstock and viticulturist Michal Akerman.

Best
Rogov

Tabor, Sauvignon Blanc, Adama, Gir, 2008: Unoaked, a lovely and lively wine, showing light golden straw in color, medium-bodied and with crisp balancing acidity to highlight aromas and flavors of minerals, grapefruit, lime, anise and oyster shell notes. Tangy citrus and a grassy hint linger nicely. Drink now-2010. NIS 67. Score 89.K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Chardonnay, 2008: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, a fresh and lively unoaked Chardonnay with citrus, melon and Anjou pears on a crisp mineral background. Just complex enough to grab our attention. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 45. Score 88. K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Rose, Adama, 2008: Ruby towards cherry red, medium-bodied, a lovely rose, fresh, crisp and full of life, with the most positive kinds of tutti-frutti aromas and flavors, those including strawberries, raspberries, red currants and just a tantalizing hint of bubble-gum to tease our palates. Rose as rose should be. Drink now. Score 89. K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Merlot, 2007:Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied, with light spicy and vanilla notes added by aging with oak staves. With soft tannins integrated nicely, a soft, round and fruit-forward wine showing raspberry and milk chocolate notes, all lingering nicely. Easy to drink. Drink now-2010. NIS 49. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Garnet towards royal purple, with soft tannins integrating nicely with a light cedar note (the wine was developed in stainless steel tanks with oak staves), opening with an appealing note of mint on the nose, that yielding to red currant, red berry and citrus peel notes. If the wine is faulted at all it is only by a note of somewhat too generous acidity. Drink now. NIS 49. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir, 2007: Developed in mostly French oak for 12 months, intensely dark garnet in color, opening with a rich mineral and black fruit nose, going on to show firm but gently caressing tannins on a medium- to full-bodied frame. Opens in the glass to reveal currant, plum and licorice notes and finishes with a generous hint of espresso. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2014. Score 90. K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Baxzelet, 2007: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied with a sweet, almost jammy raspberry nose that goes on to show spicy plums, cherries and blackberries, those complemented nicely by spicy cedar note, with fruits and tannins rising on the finish. Drink now-2012. Score 89. K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvigjnon, Adama, Terra Rosa, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Super-dark garnet in color, an aromatic wine, opening with spicy wood and wild berries on the nose. Full-bodied, showing still firm tannins that need a bit of time to settle in, but already revealing red currants, spices, licorice and notes of freshly roasted herbs. Best 2010-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Bazelet, 2007: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, a rich, softly tannic wine showing dried currant, blackberry, sage and herbal notes and on the finish notes of minerals and dark chocolate. Best 2010-2015. Score 90. K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Mes'cha, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, each a tentative blend of about 75% Cabernet Sauvigjon, 15% Merlot and 10% Syrah, those aging in different French oak barriques. Already showing the potential to be intense and concentrated, full-bodied, firmly tannic in its youth but those settling down nicely to reveal currant, purple plum and blackberry fruits, those complemented by notes of bitter orange peel, tobacco and dark chocolate. The wine will be approachable and enjoyable on release but will show its best (with perhaps a note of toasted herbs coming in) from 2011-2016. Potentially the best wine to date from Tabor. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 5 Apr 2009)

Tabor, Mes’cha, 2005: Dark garnet with orange and purple reflections, full-bodied with once firm tannins and generous oak now settling in nicely and showing in fine moderation and in fine balance with fruits. A concentrated wine, opening in the glass to reveal red currants, wild berries and red licorice, those with light overlays of herbal and cigar tobacco. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Shiraz and 10% Merlot, aged partly in 2000 liter casks and partly in 225 liter barriques for 18 months. Long, generous and elegant. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2014. NIS 140. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 5 Apr 2009)

P.S. Anticipating a question - there will not be a Mes'cha release for 2006, the winemaker deciding that the blend was not up to his standards.