The Festival of Wine
09.04.2009
Passover’s Seder Night is an annual banquet, at which one must drink (at least) four glasses of wine. The choice of wine has to be special as befits a banquet. Seder Night is a time to drink those wines that have been kept especially for the occasion.
Furthermore the four glasses are interspaced as though for a real banquet. The first glass may be considered the aperitif. Some will insist on a sweet Kiddush wine for this purpose because of tradition. Others may say the first glass is the most important, so only the finest wine should be used for it. In the end, everyone will follow their own customs.
The wine used for the second glass may also be used to accompany the starters and a fish dish. The third glass can go with the main course and finally the dessert wine may be sipped as an after dinner drink during the festive singing, which rounds off the Seder for another year.
For children, it is preferable to follow the French custom by mixing the wine with a touch of water, rather than offering grape juice. A little wine to show: ‘why this night is different from all other nights,’ is a good thing! Though tradition holds that the finest red wine should fill the ritual four cups, if the white is good enough an exception may be made.
Passover is the Jewish spring festival, which celebrates the exodus of the Jewish people from Egypt, on the way to the Promised Land. What can then be better than to choose Israeli wines to fulfil the mitzvah of four cups of wine? The following is therefore a recommendation of the best of Israel, in four glasses:
First Glass: Yarden Blanc de Blancs
Yarden Blanc de Blancs is a sparkling wine made by the champagne method, with a toasty aroma and a very clean, refreshing finish. It makes the perfect aperitif and as the ‘king of wines’, it is ideal to start the evening. It is produced by the Golan Heights Winery.
Other Israeli sparkling wines are Gamla Brut or Private Collection Brut.
If a dry sparkling wine is too much on an empty stomach, one of the fresh, grapey Moscatos produced by Carmel, Dalton or Golan wineries is recommended. They are light, slightly sparkling with a touch of sweetness and are also low alcohol.
Second Glass: ‘C’ Blanc du Castel 2007
This chardonnay is arguably Israel’s finest white wine. Its quality is reminiscent of a classic white Burgundy. A buttery wine with delicate notes of tropical fruit, roasted almonds and an exquisite balance between fruit and acidity. It is made by Domaine du Castel in the Judean Hills.
Alternatives include: Yarden Katzrin Chardonnay for those that like a full bodied option, or the Carmel Appellation Chardonnay for those that prefer a fresher style.
There are some good Sauvignon Blancs, if that is the preferred variety, like those produced by Recanati, Tabor or Yatir.
Third Glass: Yatir Forest 2005
This is a full bodied Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot, grown in the heart of Israel’s largest planted forest, in the southern Judean Hills. Rich, velvety with great depth, it has a classic aroma of blackcurrant and blackberries, backed with hints of Mediterranean herbs. Yatir Winery is situated at Tel Arad.
Other wines that would also elevate your Seder include: Castel Grand Vin, Carmel Limited Edition, and Yarden Katzrin.
Fourth Glass: Carmel Sha’al Gewurztraminer Late Harvest 2006
The fourth glass is a luscious, dessert wine. This is a sweet way to end the proceedings. The wine is made from Gewurztraminer grapes grown in Sha’al vineyard on the Golan Heights. It is delicious, but has a very good acidity so it is not too sweet and cloying. The wine has a tantalizing aroma of apricots, cinnamon and honeyed flavours.
Alternatives include Yarden Heights Wine or Tzora Or, both also made from Gewurztraminer. They should be served very cold, even from the freezer.
Passover is also the Festival of Freedom. What is more, after experimenting for a few thousand years, Israeli wines are turning out to be rather good. Suddenly using Israeli wines and supporting Israel seems very appropriate for celebrating the Exodus!
So it is recommended to use a different wine for each glass and match them to the meal. Choose something special and turn the ritual of Seder Night and into a memorable occasion.
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