Binyamina: My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes (K) 

 30.03.2009 

 By: Daniel Rogov

This relatively early morning, thanks to the Israeli railroads, I made my way comfortably to Binyamina to visit Binyamina Winery, there to do barrel, advance and re-tastings. I had recently attended a press tasting of Binyamina wines (see the thread at viewtopic.php?f=29&t=22759&p=195882 ) and reported there on progress being made in the quality of the wines. Today I'll have to go even further than that.

First of all, with massive and very impressive construction now going on the new owners (The Hetzi-Chinam chain of supermarkets) seems to be going all out to elevate the winery to state-of-the-art status. At the same time they seem to have very wisely given CEO Ilan Hassan and winemakers Sasson Ben-Aharon and Assaf Paz the green light to continue in their direction of ever improving wines. The winery is now involved with new plantings of major vineyards in the Upper Galilee and on the Golan Heights; a new and full-time agronomist is coming aboard; and the feeling that I picked up during my visit was a very positive one.

With regard to today's visit and considering earlier tastings, I had expected and found fine results from the two top series (Avnei Hachoshen and Reserve). What delighted me as much as anything though was the dramatic increase in quality of the winery's most basic Teva series. Teva at this stage is presenting wines that will comfortably compete for best values on the market. The Teva wines may not be for the most sophisticated of drinkers but that is not their target audience and be there no question but that high quality entry level wines are critical to success for any large winery and that regardless of whether we are talking of local consumption or export.

My thanks to winemakers Ben-Aharon and Paz for a fine tasting, their courtesies and good company during my visit and yes, for several cups of espresso before and after the tasting. May I also suggest that people glance at my post about the lunch we three shared after the tasting, that posted on the culinary side of the forum at viewtopic.php?f=30&t=23251

Best
Rogov

The White and Rosé Wines

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Teva, 2008: Golden straw in color, an unoaked, crisply dry with fine acidity and showing appealing tropical and citrus fruits. Not at all complex but a very pleasant quaffer and at NIS 28 fine value for money. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Rosé, Yogev, 2008: Light rose petal pink in color, opens quietly but develops nicely after a few minutes in the glass. Good acidity here to keep the raspberry, strawberry and citrus peel notes lively and refreshing. Rosé as rosé should be. Drink now. Score 87. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Avnei Hachoshen, Leshem, 2007: Damp straw in color, developed on its lees for 4 – 5 months in 2 – 3 year old barrels giving it a light and tantalizing fume note. Opens on the palate to show sweet pea, herbal and grassy notes to highlight summer and citrus fruits and closes with a lightly creamy finish. Drink now. Score 87. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc-Viognier, Avnei Hachoshen, Yashfeh, 2007: Showing better than at earlier tastings. A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier (40%, 35% and 25% respectively), gently oak aged, showing crisply dry with fine balancing acidity. On the nose and palate peach, melon, citrus and light spicy notes leading to a long, refreshing finish. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Avnei Hachosen, Shoham, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, part developing in 225 liter barriques and part in 300 liter barrels (with an "oh wow" remarkable difference between the two). Promising to be light golden in color, combining earthy and flinty minerals that complement citrus, white peach and melon aromas and flavors. Promising elegance. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Avnei Hachoshen, Shoham, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Gold with orange tints, developed sur lie for 12-14 months in oak, showing a generous but gentle wood influence and fine balancing acidity. Opens in the glass to show generous peach, pear and citrus fruits all on a light mineral background. Drink from release-2011. Score 89. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Avnei Hachoshen, Shoam, 2006: Light gold with green and orange tints, reflecting its 12 months sur lie with spicy wood and light toasty overtones, those not hiding but complementing citrus, pear and tropical fruits, all on a light earthy-mineral background. Drink now-2010, perhaps longer. Score 88. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

The Red Wines

Binyamina, Shiraz, Teva, 2008: Dark cherry red, medium-bodied, with silky tannins, a round wine with easy to take red cherries and berries on the nose and palate. Round, soft and easy to drink. Drink now-2010. Score 86. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Teva, 2008: With just a bit of Merlot blended in, dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and opening to show red currants, plums and raspberry notes. An appealing little wine. Drink now-2010. Score 86. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Zinfandel, Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Opens with California muscles but those settle down quickly in the glass to reveal a Zinfandel faithful to its variety. Developed in American and French oak for 12 months, with a moderate 14% alcohol content and gently caressing tannins, opens in the glass to reveal wild berry, blackcurrant, raspberry and pepper notes, those matched by notes of chocolate and an appealing hint of dusty wood that rises on the finish. Well done. Drink from release-2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, Avnei Hachoshen, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet, aromatic and with tannins that coat the mouth gently. Opens to reveal black cherries, blackberries and notes of sweet and spicy cedar wood. Drink from release-2011. Score 90. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tarshish, Avnei Hachoshen, 2006: Almost impenetrable garnet in color, with spicy wood and firm tannins in fine balance, showing rich and well balanced. If ever there has been a wine that was "black fruits all the way", this is that wine- opening to show blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry and deep (one is almost tempted to say "dark") earthy overtones, those matched nicely by notes of black pepper and star anise, all lingering long and comfortably. Best 2010-2014. Score 91. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Syrah, Odem, Avnei Hachoshen, 2006: Showing much as at earlier tastings. Blended with 2 – 3 % of Viognier, dark, dense and concentrated, with fine balance and structure. Firm tannins need time to integrate with spicy wood and to show the black and red berries, cherries and licorice flavors that are here, lingering comfortably on a long fruity finish. Best 2009–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Syrah, Odem, Avnei Hachoshen, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Showing beautifully. Avnei Hachoshen, Syrah, Odem, 2007: Full-bodied, soft, round and both spicy and juicy, with a generous array of blueberries, blackberries, purple plums and a mélange of fresh herbal notes that lead to a long finish. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Syrah, Odem, Avnei Hachoshen, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Impenetrably dark garnet towards inky black in color, a deeply aromatic, concentrated and ripe wine showing complexity and remarkable depth. Opens with ripe blackberry and wild berry fruits, goes on to show cherry jam and boysenberries and then to reveal peppery, meaty aromas and flavors. Finishes with a hint of cherry-jam. Full-bodied, with firm tannins settling down nicely now, destined for a muscular elegance. Best 2011-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Destined in part for the Avnei Hachoshen series, partly for the Reserve series, an intensely dark tentative blend showing deeply aromatic.Deeply tannic but well balanced enough to promise roundness and elegance. Opens to show traditional cassis and blackberry fruits on a peppery and earthy-mineral background and, on the long finish a hint of After-8 mints. Best 2011-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. K

(Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Two Desert Wines

Binyamina, Moscato, Teva, 2008: Lightly frizzante enough to give the feeling that it is floating on the palate. Moderate sweetness balanced by lively acidity and showing citrus and summer fruits. Aromatic and very easy to drink, especially when served as well chilled as you would a Champagne. Drink now. Score 86 (well, perhaps 87). K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest Cluster Select, Reserve, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Light gold in color, showing deep Gewurztraminer aromas and flavors of litchis and rose petals. To those add the charm of tangerines and passion fruit. A concentrated and intense dessert wine with just the vaguest hint of botrytis (a small number of the grapes were impacted upon by this noblest of rots), those hints possibly to rise nicely as the wine develops in the bottle. Competes with the very best dessert wines in the country. My suggestion – buy a case and open a bottle every year if you can resist not doing it more often than that. Score 93. K (Tasted 30 Mar 2009)