Teperberg: My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes (K) 

 31.03.2009 

By: Daniel Rogov

The Israeli railroad is doing wonders for me and took me yesterday morning (Tuesday, 31 March) from Tel Aviv to Beit Shemesh (for those not in the know about half way between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem), from there to make my way to visit the Teperberg Winery.

What can I say other than that this is a winery most definitely on the way up. As I have pointed out on several earlier occasions, if 2008 and 2009 are going to be remembered with fondness it will be largely because several medium-sized to large wineries that for half a century or even a full century produced wines largely for sacramental purposes have clearly moved into modern times. These wineries, Teperberg most definitely among them, and are now comfortably demonstrating that they are capable of producing wines that compete comfortably on the market. And that at two levels – supplying quality entry-level wines at sometimes remarkably reasonable prices and producing at least several series of upswing wines that will please all but the worst snobs among us.

Founded in 1870 by the Teperberg family in the Jewish quarter of the old city of Jerusalem, and then relocating outside of the walls, the winery moved to Motza, on the outskirts of the city, in 1964, and there took on the name of Efrat. For much of that time it produced primarily sacramental wines for the ultra-Orthodox community. During the 1990s it also started producing table wines. Starting in 2002, under the supervision of California-trained winemaker Shiki Rauchberger the winery began producing wines destined to appeal to a more sophisticated audience. Now relocated to their newly constructed winery on Kibbutz Tzora at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains, the winery has officially changed its name back to Teperberg.

More than a mere change in name, the new winery, with fully modern equipment, a new and very impressive barrel room and increasing control over its vineyards, is currently producing about 4 million bottles annually. Wines of interest carry the label of Teperberg Reserve, those followed by Terra, Silver and Israeli. The Efrat label has not fully disappeared and may now be considered a sub-label of the winery. With the exception of the wines in the Reserve and Terra series, all of the wines are mevushal. Target production within the next five years is 7 million bottles annually.

My thanks to winemakers Shiki Rauchberger Olivier Fratty for a fine tasting, their good company. My thanks also to a very friendly Golden Retriever of whom I was at least somewhat jealous because unlike her, I was too engrossed in tasting and discussion and could not take the liberty of napping on the nearby lawn.

One more-or-less side note. Shiki Rauchberger, is one of the few winemakers I know who feels that 2007 was a better year for his vineyards and winery than 2008. For the moment at least I'll disagree. I do, however, look forward to a comparative tasting with Shiki of paired wines from both vintages in let's say another 3 – 5 years.

My note are presented in the order of the tasting.

Best
Rogov

Teperberg, Sauvignon Blanc, Terra, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Light gold, fresh and refreshing, with tangy acidity to highlight citrus, pear and tropical fruits, those matched nicely by notes of oyster shells and lemongrass. Very nice indeed. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Chardonnay, Silver, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Treated to a half year of oaking, showing a nice hint of spicy wood on the nose, a bright and lively wine with good acidity, tropical, apple and lime fruits and, on the long finish hints of melon and spices. Lingers nicely. Drink from release. Score 87. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Emerald Riesling, Terra, 2008: With not-at-all offensive off-dry sweetness, showing apple and rose petal notes. A floral wine, without complexities but fine for those who enjoy Emerald Riesling. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Syrah, Silver, 2008 (AdvanceTasting): Dark royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing soft tannins that highlight the forward and ripe plum and black cherry fruits. Finishes with notes of spice and cedar. Drink from release-2011. Score 85. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Merlot, Silver, 2008 (Advance Tasting): A classic style of Merlot, soft, round and supple, with plums and spices on a background of red currants, freshly ground coffee and an appealing hint of bitterness on the finish. Drink from release-2012. Score 87. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvigjon, Silver, 2008: Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with somewhat flabby tannins that dull the black fruits and spices that are here. Drink from release. Score 84. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Sangiovese, Silver, 2007: Sangiovese that calls to mind Chianti country. True to the Sangiovese traits, showing a moderately dark garnet in color, medium-bodied, with currant and berry fruits complemented by notes of cedar wood and spices. Very nice indeed. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Malbec, Terra, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Developed in new French and American oak barriques for 12 months, dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins well balanced by notes of sweet toast and vanilla. On the nose and palate plums, black cherries, and notes of cocoa. Not an Argentinean nor a Cahors Malbec but one with a distinct Mediterranean personality. Drink now-2011. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Merlot, Terra, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet, with nicely gripping tannins and a gentle hand with the wood, those in fine balance with blackberries and blueberries. In the background appealing hints of Oriental spices and earthy minerals. Drink from release-2011. Score 88. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Traditional Cabernet in many ways. Super-dfark garnet, with generous gripping tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely to show off black fruits, those with hints of mint and freshly roasted coffee. Very nice indeed. Drink from release-2012. Score 88. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Merlot, Terra, 2006: Again, my earlier tasting note holds firmly: Deep garnet toward royal-purple, medium- to full-bodied, with caressing tannins, reflecting its 14 months in barriques with sweet and dusty oak, gentle spices and a hint of smoke. On the nose and palate currant, blackberry and cranberry fruits, those backed up nicely by light earthy-herbal and dark chocolate overlays. Drink now–2010. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Merlot, Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Super-dark garnet, full-bodied, with generous tannins now settling in nicely to highlight generous currant and blackberry fruits on first attack, those yielding to red berries and, on the long finish hints of loamy earthy and sweet spices. Impressive. Drink now-2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from grapes from the Shiloh vineyard, a dark, full-bodied and intense wine with still-deep, almost searing tannins, but already showing balance and structure that bode well for the future. Big and broad-shouldered, with blackberry, black currant, fig and mocha notes backed up by hints of lead pencil and cocoa. On the opening aroma and on the long finish a hint of licorice. Generous, with an appealing toasty sensation rising on the finish. Drink now–2013. The best to date from Teperberg. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Dark toward inky-garnet, full-bodied, reflecting its 15 months in oak with gentle spices and a hint of smoke, with once firm tannins now settling in and fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate an appealing array of spicy currant, blackberry, cedar and mineral notes, those with a light hint of anise on the long and generous finish. Holds back a bit when first poured but opens very nicely in the glass. Drink now–2012. Score 89. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Malbec, Terra, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form but already showing dark royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, generously aromatic and with red plums, black and red berries and notes of milk chocolate. Promising. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, those destined for either or both the Reserve or the Terra series. Deep and dark, with ample mouth-coating tannins and a gentle wood influence. Opens to reveal black fruits on a floral and earthy-mineral background. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Shiraz, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Still an infant and not certain whether this one will make its way to the Terra or the Reserve series. Super-dark garnet, with a leathery and licorice nose, opening to show firm tannins that yield slowly to reveal black fruits on a minty, meaty background (dare one say bacon with a kosher wine?) . Promising. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Merlot, Reserve, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Almost inky black in color, full-bodied, with gripping tannins, a muscular Merlot opening slowly in the glass to reveal blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate. Long and mouth-filling. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Riesling, Late Harvest, Silver, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Light gold in color, with honeyed peach and nectarine fruits on first attack, those leading to an appealing note (one that makes you smile) of caramel apples on a stick. Generously sweet but with fine balancing acidity. Drink from release-2013. Score 89. K (Tasted 31 Mar 2009)

Teperberg, Riesling, Late Harvest, Silver, 2007: Shining gold in color, with moderate sweetness offset by natural acidity. Opens to show notes of honeysuckle, dried apricots, honeyed apples, those complemented nicely by hints of white pepper. Lively, fresh and complex, as good as an aperitif as a dessert wine. Drink now-2011. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 31 Mar 2009)