Karmei Yosef (Bravdo): My Annual Visit with Tasting Notes (K) 

 01.04.2009 ,  

 By: Daniel Rogov

This late morning and early afternoon (Weds, 1 April) found me at the Karmei Yosef winery, frequently referred to as the Bravdo winery, there in the good company of Professor Ben-Ami Bravdo, épouse et fille to do barrel tastings, new tasting and re-tastings. Seated on a covered veranda in the middle of the vineyards, few tastings could have had more charm. I will be doing blind re-tastings of several of these wines in my own tasting room within the next few days.

Founded in 2001 by Ben-Ami Bravdo and Oded Shosheyov, both professors of oenology at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, the winery sits in the heart of the vineyards at Karmei Yosef on the western slopes of the Judean Mountains. The winery released 2,800 bottles of its first wine in 2001. Production from the 2007 vintages was of 24,000 bottles and production for 2008 and 2009 is planned for 40,000 bottles. The winery relies largely on grapes grown in their own vineyards, among those Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, and Chardonnay. The wines have been kosher since the 2007 vintage.

My thanks to the Bravdo family for their courtesies during my visit.

Best
Rogov

Karmei Yosef, Chardonnay, Bravdo, 2008: Wisely developed in new oak barriques for just three months, showing just a tantalizing notes of spicy wood and toasted white bread, those parting comfortably to reveal generous nectarine, citrus and green apple notes, all leading to a finish that hinting of sweet cream. Lively and easy to drink with just enough complexity to grab our attention. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 1 Apr 2009)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied and with fine concentration and tight focus. Generous tannins here needing time to settle down but already showing the balance and structure to predict a fine future. Opens with spicy, almost sawdust oak on the nose, that going on to blackcurrants and blackberries, those on a background of bay leaves, and dark chocolate. Promises to be a deep, long and complex wine. Best 2011-2016. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 1 Apr 2009)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2007: Deep garnet in color, full-bodied, with deep tannins and spicy wood, those opening to reveal a rich core of currant, wild berry, toasty oak and minted chocolate, all lingering nicely. Drink now-2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 1 Apr 2009)

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Developing in new French barriques, still in its infancy but already showing dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle wood parting to reveal generous black and red cherries, red currants, spices and minted chocolate notes. Rich and opulent, generous, long and mouth-filling. Best 2011-2015. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 1 Apr 2009)

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2007: Dark garnet toward royal-purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins and showing a generous array of blackberry, blueberry, spicy and earthy aromas and flavors. Drink now-2011. NIS 129. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 1 Apr 2009)

Karmei Yosef, Shiraz, Bravdo, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple in color, a dense, rich and aromatic wine made from intentionally late harvested grapes that yield sur-ripe berries, plums, and blueberry fruits. In the background cedary oak, spices and a generous dose of pepper. Best from 2012-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 1 Apr 2009)

Karmei Yosef, Shiraz, Bravdo, 2007: The first Shiraz release from the winery and a fine effort. Almost impenetrable dark garnet in color, an intense and spicy wine, offering wild berry and blackberry fruits, those with leathery overtones. Muscular but fine-grained tannins and a relatively high alcohol content (almost 16%) make this a near-blockbuster, but given time it will settle down nicely. Approachable and enjoyable now but best starting in 2011. Score 91. K (Tasted 1 Apr 2009)