Gvaot Winery - Tastings (K) 
 28.06.2010
By: Daniel Rogov

This afternoon (Monday, 28 July) I met in Tel Aviv with Shivi Drori and Amnon Weiss of the Gvaot winery. Before getting into wine, two points that I think well worth making. First, to Shivi who is the winemaker of the duo, warm congratulations on his having just received his PhD (molecular biology, specializing in plant biology). Second, to point out that meetings such as these can often bring together people of sometimes vastly differing political-social-religious points of view. All of which is not far from wine for it is largely the civilizing influence and shared love of wine that brings them together, perhaps to disagree even vociferously on many points but to maintain respect each other.

More directly to the wine issue….Gvaot was founded by Drori and Weiss on Shiloh in the Shomron region. With vineyards at an altitude of 700–900 meters above sea level, this boutique winery released its first wines from the 2005 vintage. Current production is about 15,000 bottles annually, those of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay grapes. The winery is currently releasing wines in three series, Gofna Reserve, Masada and Herodion. I have commented to Drori on several occasions that his wines have shown better at every year's tastings. Interestingly, the wines also take an increasing turn towards those of Italy and France. The same is true this year and Gvaot rises comfortably from three to four stars in my 2011 Israeli wine guide.

Following are my today's tasting notes. My thanks to both Shivi and Amnon for coming to Tel Aviv, for a rewarding tasting and for our lively conversation.

Best
Rogov

Gvaot, Chardonnay-Cabernet Sauvignon, Gofna, 2009: An odd marriage indeed between a white and a red grape but not at all odd on the palate. A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the red grapes having undergone very cold pressing to keep coloration to an absolute minimum. Light gold in color, reflecting its four months in new French barriques with gentle hints of spicy cedar. Full-bodied, a white that hints comfortably of tannins and opens on the palate to reveal a rich array of tropical and citrus fruits, those complemented nicely by notes of wild berries. Not a wine meant for blind tastings as no-one on this planet would ever guess the grapes or growing region, but certainly a fun wine that leads to a good deal of discussion. Better yet, a well made and fascinating wine. Drink now-2013. NIS 100. Score 89. K (Tasted 28 Jun 2010)

Gvaot, Merlot, Herodion, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied with ample tannins caressing nicely and notes of spicy and smoky wood. Developing half in French and half in American barriques, opens with an unmistakable blueberry nose and then opens in the glass to show purple plums, blackberries and currants on a lightly spicy background. Showing fresh and long and destined for complexity and elegance. Drink from release-2015. Projected price NIS 105. Score 90. K (Tasted 28 Jun 2010)

Gvaot, Vineyard's Dance, Herodion, 2007: A full-bodied Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (60%, 30% and 10%). Showing appealing spicy and toasty notes from its oak-aging, and on the nose and palate appealing blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits. Long and mouth-filling. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. NIS 110. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 28 Jun 2010)

Gvaot, Masada, 2008: A full-bodied, dark garnet blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Developed for 20 months primarily in new French barriques with hints of dusty oak and firm tannins that yield in the glass to fruits and spices. Concentrated and rich, showing generous blackberry, blackcurrant and wild berry fruits, those supported by notes of earthy minerals and Mediterranean herbs. Showing the kind of balance and structure that bode well for the future. Best from 2012-2016, perhaps longer. Score 91. NIS 225. K (Tasted 28 Jun 2010)