New Releases from Binyamina (K)
 07.03.2009
By: Daniel Rogov

As much as critics are optimists (after all, we are always hoping that the next wine we taste will be the best of the day, the week or the month), we are also worriers and little worries us more than the buyout of a winery.

We especially worry when those buyouts are carried out by producers of soft drinks or supermarket chains for in both Europe and North America, that has too often signaled a lowering of quality standards and the production of rather ordinary wines. So far so good in Israel, however. The first such buyout, of the Tabor Winery by Coca Cola has proven a dramatic success for both the winery and for consumers and the most recent, by the Hetzi Hinam (Half-Free) Supermarket chain of Binyamina Wineries also seems to be moving in every possible right direction. Under new ownership, but with senior management of the winery and the winemaking staff fully intact, new construction is taking place, new state-of-the-art equipment is being brought aboard, and increasing attention is being paid to what is happening in the vineyards. That Binyamina has been on the rise since CEO Ilan Hassan stepped into office just 13 years ago is beyond question. And now it seems that a new plateau is being set.

Last week (Wednesday, 4 March) I attended a press tasting of newly released Binyamina wines. The tasting took place in Tel Aviv in the presence of CEO Ilan Hassan, Assistant CEO Timna Shitrit and winemakers Sasson Ben-Aharon and Assaf Paz. I later re-tasted several of these wines in my own tasting room. And, to make life even better, I'm speaking with Ben-Aharon tomorrow to arrange my annual visit to the winery.

Best
Rogov

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet in color, deeply aromatic and showing full body and generous but comfortably yielding tannins, those in fine balance with fruits, wood and acidity. Reflecting oak-aging for 18 months with spicy overtones and opening in the glass to reveal blackberry, currant and purple plum fruits, those supported nicely by hints of black pepper. Medium- towards full-bodied, mouth-filling and long. Drink now-2012. NIS 90. K (Tasted 4 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Not at all an internationalized little Merlot, the type many of us have come to scorn, but one with a unique and charming personality. Full-bodied, reflecting its 14 months in oak with notes of vanilla and spices as well as a cigar-box note that runs through. On the nose and palate opens with strawberries and raspberries, those yielding comfortably to blackberries and currants, all with a generous peppery note that lingers nicely on the long finish. Give this one some time to develop in the bottle and t it will show some licorice and smoked meat aromas and flavors as well. One of the best ever from Binyamina. Drink now-2013. NIS 85. Score 92. K (Tasted 4 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Shiraz, Reserve, 2006: Developed for 12 months in French and American oak, a full-bodied, dark garnet, aromatic Shiraz blended, as seems to be the wont these days with 2% of white Viognier grapes, the small amount of which adding both liveliness and flavor. On the nose and palate lightly notes of smoky wood to match black and red berries, cherries and spices, the tannins coating the mouth gently and then lingering on the generously fruity finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 85. Score 91. K (Tasted 4 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, 2008: An appealing light- to medium-bodied Gewurztraminer, half-dry but with fine balancing acidity to keep it lively. In addition to traditional litchi and rosewater notes look for hints of pink grapefruit here. Not overly complex but easy to drink, especially as an aperitif or to match noodles-based dishes or wraps. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 55. Score 87. K (Tasted 4 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2008: Be patient with this one as when first poured it seems awfully quiet, almost as if it's going through a late bottling shock. Given twenty minutes in the glass though and the wine opens nicely. I might even have chutzpah enough to suggest decanting for 10-15 minutes before serving. Light- to medium-bodied, and unoaked, once the wine does open, aromas and flavors of citrus and pineapple, those matched nicely by hints of asparagus (yes, asparagus, not unusual with the variety) and earthy minerals. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 55. Score 87. K
(Tasted 4 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Unoaked, 2007: Light golden straw in color, a perhaps too simple wine that although showing some citrus and tropical fruits lacks the crisp minerality one hopes for in an unoaked Chardonnay. One wonders why the winery waited so long to release this one as it was surely fresher and more lively in its extreme youth at an earlier pre-release tasting. Drink up. NIS 65. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 4 Mar 2009)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2007: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, with a gently spicy oak overlay, opens to reveal appealing citrus and tropical fruits, those on a near creamy background. On the moderately long finish an appealingly bitter herbal note. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 65. Score 86. K