Yatir Winery: My Annual Visit and Tasting Notes (K) 

 13.02.2009 

 By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday (Thursday, 12 Feb) had me at the Yatir winery, there in the good company of forum member Eli R. who won our little competition some months ago. A most pleasant tasting of 2007 and 2008 wines, many of those of now single variety wines destined for blending. In some of those cases, as noted in my reviews that follow, that is rather a shame as several are indeed quite excellent enough to comfortably stand on their own.

Set in a state-of-the-art winery near the archaeological digs of Tel Arad at the foot of the Judean Hills, this boutique winery draws its name from the Yatir Forest. Originally a joint venture of Carmel and the vintners of the Yatir region, the winery is now owned solely by Carmel but maintains complete autonomy under the supervision of Australian-trained winemaker Eran Goldwasser. Releases include the age-worthy Yatir Forest and Yatir wines (those regularly including Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvigjnon and Shiraz varietal releases and a blend based on Merlot-Shiraz and Cabernet). The winery cultivates its own vineyards with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier grapes. Also under cultivation are Tempranillo, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, those at this stage destined primarily as blending agents. .The first wines were from the 2001 vintage and current production is between 100,000- 120,000 bottles annually and growth over the next two to three years is estimated at about 150,000 bottles.

With wines that intentionally avoid being "blockbusters" but focus more on roundness and elegance, there is no question but that Yatir remains at the top of the "pecking order" as one of the very best wineries in the country. Good vineyards, good grapes, good equipment and, equally important, Eran Goldwasser who continues to prove himself a talented and sensitive winemaker.

My thanks to Eran and to CEO Ya'akov Ben Dor for a fine visit and tasting as well as for good espresso and, would you believe, even a fine medium-rare cheeseburger hamburger and chips (those taken with mustard of course).

Best
Rogov

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Light golden straw with a green tint, developed primarily in stainless steel and partly in older barriques for 3-4 months Fresh and crisp, with citrus, kiwi and gooseberry fruits all with a light hints of oyster shells and sea water. Lovely! Drink from release. Score 91. K

Yatir, Viognier, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Unoaked, a juicy wine, showing pear, peach and green gage plum fruits, those supported by notes of fennel seed and peach pits, all coming together in a long, harmonious and near-creamy finish. Drink from release=2011. Score 91. K

Yatir, Tempranillo, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Probably destined as a blending agent. Domage! Not at all Spanish and certainly not South American but distinctly Mediterranean with its medium-body, soft tannins already integrating nicely. Opens with a near-sweet nose, goes on to aromas and flavors of black cherries and currant fruits, those matched by with clean notes of vanilla and freshly roasted coffee. Is that a hint of green olives on the finish? Not one for the ages but a well crafted quaffer. Tentative Score 88-90. K

Yatir, Cabernet Franc, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Destined to be a blending agent and again, a shame. Developed in large oak casks, showing super-dark royal purple. Full-bodied, with still gripping tannins but those showing signs of integrating nicely and destined to be smooth and velvety. Offers up a generous mouthful of black cherry, strawberry, raspberry and white pepper aromas and flavors, those complemented by notes of white pepper, all lingering nicely. If released as a varietal, best from 2010-2015. Tentative Score 88-90. K

Yatir, Malbec, 2007 (Advance Tasting): With its impenetrably dark garnet color, gripping tannins and notes of tar and chocolate, a fine reminder that Malbec originated in Bordeaux and not in Argentina. Opens to show raspberry and currant notes, those supported nicely by notes of figs, garrigue and bittersweet chocolate. Long and powerful. Probably destined as a blending agent. Tentative Score 88-90. K

Yatir, Merlot, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Oak aged for 12 months, dark royal purple towards garnet, full-bodied, with rich notes of vanilla and spices in fine support of wild berries, red currants and freshly cured tobacco Has a whopping 16.5% alcohol content but that in fine balance with wood, tannins and fruits and showing not even a hint of heat. Long, generous and with a touch of uniqueness. If released as a varietal best from 2010-2015. Score 90. K

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: (Advance Tasting): Impenetrably dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins and gentle wood influence integrating nicely. On first attack black fruits and spices, those parting to show notes of fresh herbs, black olives and bitter-sweet chocolate. Best 2011-2014, perhaps longer Score 91. K

Yatir, Petit Verdot, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Inky dark and dense in color, with firm, still gripping tannins that need nothing more than time to show the wine's elegance. On the nose and palate a generous array of black cherries, red and black currants along with notes of mint, chocolate and tar, all coming together in a long and generous finish. Destined as a blending agent? Tentative Score 89-91. K

Yatir, Shiraz, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Deep garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with gripping tannins starting to integrate now. Opens with a burst of spicy purple plums and blackberries, those yielding comfortably to red fruits, tobacco and dark chocolate. Needs time to show its elegance. Best 2011-2016. Score 93. K

Yatir, Tempranillo, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied and despite its youth already showing complexity. On the nose and palate wild berries, spicy cedar and minerals standing up nicely to chewy tannins. If released as a varietal, best from 2011-2015. Tentative Score 91-93. K

Yatir, Cabernet Franc, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): As many of the Yatir wines, deeply extracted and showing almost impenetrably dark royal purple in color. Supple and rich, packed with mulberry, raspberry and cassis, those complemented by hints of toasty oak, and finally, raspberry and cherry notes that rise on the long finish. If released as a varietal, best from release-2015. Tentative Score 90-92. K

Yatir, Merlot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple with orange and violet reflections. Full-bodied, with gently caressing near-sweet tannins and light hints of spicy cedar wood, those parting to reveal purple plum, blueberry and currant fruits on a just spicy enough background. Probably destined for the Merlot-Shiraz, Cabernet blend. Tentative Score 91-93. K

Yatir, Malbec, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A super-rich nose of blackberry and currant fruits. On first attack a clean note of mocha that parts to reveal spices, raspberries and red currants, those on a background of citrus peel and peppermint. If released as a varietal best from 2010-2015. Tentative Score 91-93. K

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Smooth, well focused and refined. On the nose chocolate covered cherries, and then showing full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins, and just enough spice from the wood to tantalize. On first attack a red-fruit Cabernet, going on to show blackberries and black cherries. Long, generous and destined for elegance. Best 2011-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. K

Yatir, Petit Verdot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): As concentrated and intense on the nose as on the palate at this stage. Dark, almost inky purple in color, full-bodied, with generous acidity and spicy andvanilla notes from the wood, those waiting to integrate and show a rich array of currant and blackberry fruits, those with leathery and light herbal overtones, all with tannins rising on the long finish. If released as a varietal, best from 2011-2016. Tentative Score 91-93. K