Lewinsohn, Blanc, Garage de Papa, 2009. 
  10.06.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday afternoon had me at Arcaffe, the office away from the office, to meet with Ido Lewinsohn and receive a bottle of his 2009 Blanc Garage de Papa for tasting.

After formal winemaking studies and the garnering of experience in Italy, France, Israel and Australia and currently as one of the winemakers of Israel's Recanati Winery, Lewinsohn, together with his father Amnon has opened his own artisinal winery. With the winery located literally in the residential garage in the Tel Aviv suburb of Hod HaSharon, and his wines therefore carrying the name "Garage de Papa", Lewinsohn relies on purchased contract grapes, those at this stage including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Viognier, and Chardonnay from various vineyards in selected spots throughout the country. First releases, from the 2007 vintage were of about 2,000 bottles and 2009 will see about 6,000 bottles making their way to market. Plans are to expand to about eight to ten thousand bottles annually. In 2009 the winery produced two wines, those Garage de Papa Rouge and Garage de Papa Blanc. Sitting with Lewinsohn is an unmitigated pleasure for as he talks about wines (not only his) or his wine-related experiences his eyes shine with enthusiasm.

The wines are available only from the winery and the white reviewed below is going for NIS 140. Indeed not inexpensive but a Burgundy white of this personality and quality will set you back between US$125-250. Those wanting further information or to place orders will do well to contact the winery by email at amnonlewinsohn@gmail.com . At a suggestion – the Lewinsohn wines tend to sell out rather rapidly as they are very well received at restaurants, so early contact is advisable.

Following, as a perhaps interesting comparison, are both my original barrel tasting note and my current note.

Best
Rogov

Lewinsohn, Garage de Papa, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, those all of Chardonnay developing in a variety of barriques, that meaning that the assemblage is mine alone and a prediction of the potential of this wine that is still in its fetal stage. Promising a fine balance between ripe and rich apple, pear, melon and citrus fruits and light toasty oak and minerals in its youth, those going to honey, blanched almonds and perhaps toasted white bread as it matures. Full-bodied and complex but no blockbuster this as it promises to waltz nicely on the palate. Now we'll wait and see. Drink from release but best from 2012-2017. Tentative Score 91-93.

Lewinsohn, Garage de Papa, 2009: Developed in new and older barriques, a rich, not at all buttery but crisply refreshing with fine balance between generous but wisely utilized acidity, low alcohol (about 12/5%) and fruits. Opens with elegantly subdued aromas and flavors that hint of pears, apples and citrus, those on a background of lightly toasted oak and crisp minerality. Goes on to reveal candied limes, peaches and a vague but tantalizing notes of exotic spices and blanched almonds. Lush and mouthwatering, the vibrant acidity leading to a long, long finish on which a hint of baked pie pastry. Chardonnay in its purest form and calls to mind a fine Puligny-Montrachet. Firmly structured, the wine is thoroughly enjoyable now but will develop a more fleshy texture as it develops. Drink now-2018. Score 93. (Re-tasted 10 Jun 2010)