The book is like a Michelin guide in that it gives a rating to Israeli wineries. It was first published in 1977 and since then has been published annually. Hugh Johnson is helped by an editorial team, some of whom are famous wine journalists in their own right. Israel may be found in an Eastern Mediterranean section that also includes Cyprus, Lebanon and Turkey.
In this new edition, there are no less than thirty two Israeli wineries listed, which is a record number for Israel in this particular book. The wineries added this time are: Gvaot, Lewinsohn, Psagot, Yaffo and Shvo (as yet without a rating.)
Both Domaine du Castel and Yatir Winery have held on to their four star rating. This puts them amongst some of the finest wineries in the world. Four stars is the maximum a winery is able to receive.
Wineries that have advanced since last year are: Tzora, Chillag and Dalton. Each of these wineries has improved their rating.
Barkan-Segal, Carmel, Galil Mountain and Tabor receive recognition for having good value wines at all price points.
The Margalit Special Reserve receives a personal endorsement for being particularly enjoyed by Hugh Johnson, himself.
In his introduction to the Israel section, Johnson writes that Israel is a country with a chronic shortage of water, a lack of rain and a hot climate. Yet, he goes on to say that the country is making the best wine produced in Israel for 2,000 years. He notes the up to the minute viticulturists, the winery technology and dynamic winemakers. He reports that the red wines, especially Bordeaux blends, Shiraz, old vine Carignans and Petite Sirahs seem to be improving each year.
On the Eastern Mediterranean, Johnson writes: “Lebanon…and Israel are taking giant steps forward.” He also comments that the eastern and southern Mediterranean is an old vine paradise. “The new desire to make quality wines from low-yielding, old-bush vines is throwing up some interesting surprises.” He recommends: “Look out for old-vine Carignans from Israel and Tunisia, Cinsault from Lebanon and Grenache and Syrah from Morocco.”
In last year’s edition, Hugh Johnson summarized his view on scores. “This book doesn’t do wine-by-wine judgments. No scores. The one-to-four star code is my take on the winery…as a presence in the market.” He therefore differentiates his world view from the American style of scores out of 100, as represented by Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator.
Hugh Johnson is well-known for his books: ‘The Story of Wine’ (on history), ‘The World Wine Atlas’, which he now writes with Jancis Robinson MW; ‘The Wine Companion’, which was recently been updated by Stephen Brook; and ‘The Art and Science of Wine’, about winemaking and viticulture, which he authored with James Halliday. Each of these are classics, which form the basis of any wine lover’s library. He has also written his autobiography ‘Wine – A Life Uncorked.’ Hugh Johnson visited Israel in the late 1980’s for his TV series on the ‘The Story of Wine.’
In the last 12 months alone, Israeli wine has enjoyed some remarkable successes. Firstly Carmel Shiraz won the International Trophy at The Decanter World Wine Awards. This was followed by the Golan Heights Winery receiving the Gran Vinitaly Special Award as the best producer. These were unprecedented awards for Israeli wine, in two of the world’s most stringent wine competitions.
Then, Castel Grand Vin, Clos du Gat Sycra Muscat and Margalit Special Reserve each in turn received scores of 93 points in the Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. These equaled the previous achievement of Yatir Forest. Ninety three points remains the best ever scores for Israeli wines in the newsletter of the world’s most famous wine critic. Finally, Castel’s four stars and Yatir’s three to four stars, were re-confirmed in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book.
These, all taken together, represent serious and sustained third party recognition at the very highest level for Israeli wines and wineries.
The ratings of Israeli wines in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2012 are:
FOUR STARS ****
Domaine du Castel
THREE TO FOUR STARS ***>****
Yatir Winery
THREE STARS ***
Clos de Gat, Margalit, Yarden (Golan Heights)
TWO TO THREE STARS **>***
Carmel, Chateau Golan, Flam, Pelter, Tzora
TWO STARS **
Barkan-Segal, Chillag, Dalton, Ella Valley, Gvaot, Lewinsohn, Recanati, Saslove, Tulip, Vitkin
ONE TO TWO STARS *>**
Agur, Avidan, Binyamina, Galil Mountain, Psagot, Sea Horse, Tabor, Yaffo
ONE STAR *
Alexander, Tishbi, Teperberg,
NO STARS ALLOCATED:
Shvo
I buy Israeli wines in my country (Not for Israelis)
