Barkan: Excellence in the Altitude Series (K) 
18.03.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday afternoon (Wednesday, 17 Mar 2010), I attended the press unveiling of the three 2007 releases in Barkan's Altitude Series. Released regularly since 2003, each of the wines in this mini-series are made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, those fermented and oaked in similar manners, the major difference between them being reflected by the altitude, micro-climate and soil conditions of the vineyards.

All of the releases are excellent and, as I have done regularly in the past I suggest purchasing a bottle of each, inviting friends over, opening all of the bottles at the same time and tasting from each to determine which is most to your taste.
Some will say that at this youthful stage of their development the wines should be decanted. I would disagree, suggesting instead that the bottles be opened an hour to an hour and a half before serving and then pouring directly into glasses so that each person can follow the wine as it blossoms and develops in the glass.

My thanks to CEO Shmuel Boxer, to senior winemaker Ed Salzberg, to winemakers Yotam Sharon and Irit Boxer and to Carmi Levenstein of the winery for their courtesies during the tasting. I will, by the way be visiting Barkan on 13 April to do extensive barrel, advance and re-tastings.

Two more notes:

(a) The wines were tasted first at the unveiling and then again early this morning, blind, in my own tasting room matched by other wines made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and many from the same oenological sub-regions.

(b) The wines are priced at NIS 135 each. Considering their quality and level of interest, I judge that to be very good value for money.

Best
Rogov

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 412, 2007: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes primarily from the Avnai-Eitan vineyard on the southern Golan Heights and developed largely in in new French oak for 14 months. Medium- to full-bodied, in the direction of full, with soft tannins integrating nicely and a moderate reflection of spicy cedar wood from the barriques in which it aged, opens to show a fine array of blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those on a lightly spicy background that calls to mind mint and tobacco. Coherent, long and quietly elegant. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from mid-2011-2015. Score 90. K (Tasted twice with consistent notes, 17 and 18 Mar 2010)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 624, 2007: Cabernet Sauvignon as a Mediterranean Cabernet Sauvignon should be. Made from grapes from the Alma vineyard in the northern Galilee, oak aged in new French oak for 14 months, showing deep garnet towards royal purple. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and notes of spicy oak, those in fine balance with the fruits. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, blackberries and notes of licorice, all with a tantalizing overlay of bitter orange peel. Long and generous. Give this one some time and it will show notes of vanilla and Oriental spices. Approachable now but best from 2012-2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Tasted twice with consistent notes 17 and 18 Mar 2010)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 720, 2007: Made from grapes from the Dovev winery, in the northern Galilee on the Lebanese border. With a nose that might make you think you were about to sample an cocktail of fresh herbs and wild shrubs, with aromas of garrigue, basil, eucalyptus and citronella, those melding nicely first to raspberries and red plums, then to more traditional Cabernet fruits, those including cassis and blackberries. On the long finish a generous note of bitter-sweet chocolate. Approachable now but best 2012-2016. Score 91. K (Tasted twice with consistent notes 17 and 18 Mar 2010)