Pelter Winery: My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes
 23.03.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday (Sunday, 21 March), possibly to celebrate the day traditionally but incorrectly associated with the onset of the Spring season in the Northern Hemisphere, I made my way to the northern most parts of the Golan Heights to visit the Pelter Winery, there to do barrel, advance and re-tastings. A long drive indeed (about three hours from Tel Aviv) but well worth while as the scenery from the Galilee to the Golan is exquisite and there are even acceptable places along the route to stop for coffee and a snack.

The trip was even more worthwhile, however, because Pelter comfortably maintains its status as one of the very best wineries in the country, offering wines that not only carry the signature of the winemaker but are of overall excellence and a level of interest that comfortably grabs the imagination.

The Pelter winery was established in 2002 on Mosha Zofit in Central Israel and since 2005 has been located on Kibbutz Ein Zivan on the Golan Heights. Winemaker Tal Pelter, who studied oenology and worked at several wineries in Australia draws on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Tempranillo, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay grapes, mostly from the Golan and the Upper Galilee with some coming from the Jerusalem Mountains. The winery, one of only four in the country to produce a sparkling wine, releases wines in two series: T-Selection and Pelter. The winery will also be introducing a new flagship wine "I".

Production from the 2002 vintage was about 4,000 bottles. Growth has been well planned, and current production is about 80,000 bottles annually. Happily, the Pelter prices have remained well in range with their quality and represent excellent value for money.

My tasting notes follow. Those wines that are now on the market or currently making their way to market at this writing are preceded with an asterisk (*) and prices are given. Not a few of these wines were tasted twice, once in my own tasting room and then again at the winery..

My thanks to Tal Pelter, to Nir Pelter who is Tal's partner and general manager of the winery, and to Ella Ben Zvi, in charge of customer relations for an excellent tasting and for their many courtesies during my trip and my visit.

Best
Rogov

T-Selection

Pelter, Semillon, T-Selection, 2009 (Advance Tasting): The winery's earlier releases of Semillon were in the regular Pelter series and I believe this is the first in the T-Selection series. Well worth the upgrade. Developed in French oak for three months, at this stage showing gentle spicy wood notes to highlight fig, tangerine and mineral notes. Still a baby and a few years away from release which is a "good move" for as this one continues to develop the oak will recede and secondary aromas and flavors will arise – those including pine nuts, white asparagus, and pears, all with a gentle overlay of sage and if my estimate is accurate a creamy finish. Best from 2012-2018, perhaps longer. Score 92. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Full bodied, dark garnet in color, with soft, gently caressing tannins and notes of spicy wood in fine balance with fruits. On first attack blackberries and chocolate, those yielding comfortably to currants and notes of mint and freshly clipped Mediterranean herbs. Long and generous. Best from 2012-2018. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2007: Garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with silky smooth tannins integrating beautifully. Powerful and concentrated but not at all a "blockbuster. Opens with blackcurrant and berry fruits, those yielding to notes of ripe plums and, from first sip to the long finish notes of raisins, earthy minerals and anise. Ripe and supple even now but to find this one at its best hold until mid-2011 and then cellar comfortably until 2017. Score 92. (Re-tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon T-Selection, 2006: Showing much as at earlier tasting and drinking beautifully now. With 20 months in new French barriques, a generously oaked wine, near-sweet because of its 15% alcohol content. Dark garnet in color, with generous velvety tannins that match the oak. Opens in the glass to reveal blackcurrants and black cherries, those along with tarry and spicy notes, and, rising on the very long finish, notes of sweet chewing tobacco. A California-style blockbuster but yielding in the glass to show its own kind of muscular elegance. Drink now–2015.NIS 210. Score 93. (Re-tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Merlot, T-Selection, Mia, 2008: A special cuvee made for Cholelys restaurant in Ramat Gan. Dark royal purple in color, with generous near-sweet tannins and reflecting its 14 months in French oak with gentle spicy overlays. Full-bodied, with soft tannins, concentrated but round and smooth, with generous wild berries, blackberries and cassis notes. On the long finish notes of tobacco and grilled herbs. Best 2011-2017. Score 91. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Showing much as at barrel tasting. Deep royal purple towards garnet in color, full-bodied, firm and chewy with soft gripping tannins. On the nose and palate generous blueberries, blackberries and red currants, those supported comfortably notes of tobacco and a light herbal element. Finishes with a generous mineral overlay. Best from 2011-2017. Score 92. (Re-tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2007: Medium- to full-bodied, aged for 14 months in French oak, showing dark garnet, generous but not overpowering oak and firm chewy tannins that need time to settle in. On the nose and palate blueberries, raspberries and fresh herbs, and, in the background an appealing floral note. Long and generous with a tempting near-sweet note on the finish. NIS 185. Best 2011–2014. Score 92. (Re-tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Pinot Noir, T-Selection, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins. Soft and round, with lively wild berry and blueberry notes coming together nicely with toasty oak. Supple, well balanced and concentrated with a long and generous finish. Drink from release-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Pinot Noir, T-Selection, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Showing every bit as well as at barrel tastings. A robust and concentrated wine, medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet in color, with generous soft and gently caressing tannins. On first attack berry and black cherry fruits, those yielding to notes of blueberries, white pepper and a note of garrigue. From mid-palate on appealing notes of cinnamon and freshly cut herbs. A captivating and distinctly Mediterranean wine, perhaps more interesting than "great". Drink from release-2015. Score 92. (Re-tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2008 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Grenache, oak aged in primarily French barriques. Showing ruby towards garnet in color, with soft tannins and gentle spicy oak notes in fine balance with red currant and wild berry fruits. Smoth, round and long. Drink from release-2015. Score 90. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter

*Pelter, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009: Unoaked to maintain the natural aromas, flavors and liveliness of the wine. The color of damp straw, an "oh wow" white, opening with and maintaining a burst of aromas and flavors, those including tangerine, grapefruit, key lime and papaya, all of which play beautifully on the palate together with notes of fresh acidity and minerals. Fresh and refreshing while simultaneously long and complex. Drink now-2011. NIS 65. Score 91. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Chardonnay, 2009: Unoaked, light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with fine balancing acidity. Muted when first poured, opens in the glass to delight first with notes of minerals and tropical fruits, then with pears and guava fruits and finally with notes of ripe white peaches. Surprisingly complex for an unoaked white, not so much a lively wine as an elegant one. Drink now-2011. NIS 55. Score 90. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Chardonnay, 2005: A return to the past with this vintage and with that a surprise for I had put this one in a drink-up category a bit over a year ago and it is still drinking nicely. Showing deeper than at earlier tastings, with the acidity now receded but continuing to show delicate apricot, peach and tropical fruits. Holds nicely in the glass and still delightful but indeed do drink up now. Score 90. (Re-tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Sparkling Wine, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): As much a guess as an estimate for this was tasted not only from components but from the base wines, that is to say the Chardonnay and the Pinot that will eventually be blended to make this traditional Champagne style sparkling wine. With the Pinot showing just the right hint of micro-oxidation (natural and not man-made) and notes of peppermint along with its blackberry and blueberry notes and the Chardonnay lively and showing generous acidity, a most promising combination indeed. Probably destined for release in 2012 or 2013. Tentative Score (allowing myself more leeway than usual) 90-94. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Brut Naturel, Blanc de Blancs, 2007 (Advance Tasting): In place of the traditional dosage, the second fermentation here was supported by adding some of the sparkling wine of the last release. Tempting aromas and flavors lime and grapefruit on a lively and racy background showing notes of vanilla, candied fruits and minerals, those complemented by gentle hints of lightly toasted sourdough bread. Fine and concentrated bubbles that go on and on to a super-long finish. Scheduled to be released before the year of 2010 plays itself out. Score 92. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Rose, 2009: Made entirely from Tempranillo grapes, those allowed 12 hours of skin contact, showing salmon pink towards orange in color. Light- to medium-bodied, with fresh aromas of blueberries, raspberries and strawberries, the wine off-dry but crisp and refreshing. Not a frivolous little rose but one with enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 65. Score 88. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Trio, 2008: Dark garnet, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Reflecting its oak aging with notes of sweet and spicy wood, showing soft tannins and lively acidity. Opens to show aromas and flavors of currants, red and black berries and, on the long finish notes of a bouquet garni of dried herbs. Drink now-2012. NIS 75. Score 90. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Dark youthful royal purple, a big full-bodied wine one that is ripe, soft, round and well focused. On first attack blackberries and plums, those followed by notes of licorice, smoke and spices. Fine soft tannins and gentle wood integrating beautifully. Drink from release-2017. Score 91. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark garnet in color, with generous spicy wood in fine balance with soft tannins and fruits. Full-bodied, opening with notes of spicy wood and black fruits, those yielding in the glass to wild berries, red currants and earthy minerals, all on background that hints gently of cigar tobacco and licorice. Long and mouth-filling. Drink now-2014, perhaps longer. NIS 95. Score 91. (Re-tasted 21 Mar 2010)

*Pelter, Gewurztraminer, 2009: Traditional Gewurztraminer aromas and flavors on a tantalizingly off-dry background. Spicy and ripe, with apple, pineapple, litchi and citrus peel along with notes of candied almonds, and with fine balancing acidity. On the long finish notes of white peaches and peach pits. Lovely. Drink now-2012, perhaps longer. NIS 85. Score 90. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)

Pelter "I"

Pelter, "I", 2008 (Barrel Tasting): The new flagship wine of the winery. Whether they "I" represents the winemakers ego (which I doubt as that seems in fine proportion to his being in general), the "Aye, Aye" of the Navy or that organ that allows us to see is not known to me but frankly, I don't give a hoot for this is a fine wine in the making. A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in approximately equal parts, those aged in French oak, a deeply extracted wine opening with raspberries and chocolate on the nose, that gong on to a complex array of aromas and flavors, among which currants, plums, black olives and citrus peel. Comes together not so much as a Bordeaux wine but as a wine with a distinctly Mediterranean note. Full-bodied and concentrated, needs time for its elements to come together. Tentative Score 93-95. (Tasted 21 Mar 2010)