Wines for One Thousand and One Nights
 10.05.2011 
 

Three Doses Up

It was not long ago since José Grimberg, a friend and wine merchant, had returned from a trip to Israel when he lent me the “Rogov's Guide to Israeli Wines”. I kept it for a long time: flipping through it, I dreamed and desired to know other wines among the 250 cited in the guide. I say other because I already know the wines of one, among the 143 producers from Israel. And let's admit: what are some among hundreds?

I agree that for those unaware of the existence of wines in Israel, even two labels may seem a lot. However, one who lives in the world of Bacchus always want to prove and know more. The desire was so great that even a trip to Israel went through my plans last year – maybe next year? Then last week when Grimberg showed up with an invitation to a dinner harmonized with wines from Israel, came the indescribable pleasure enjoyed by those who attain the desired object, since the wines presented during the dinner were exactly the ones I lusted over the period of “coexistence” with the guide – which, by the way, I returned with some difficulty that night.

The Golan Heights Winery has always been attentive and focused on raising the qualitative standard of Israeli wines, especially in the international market. Not without reason, the company has been winning, since its foundation in 1983, the highest and most respected international competitions. Golan's name is eponymous of the Golan Heights or as they say over there, land of wine, located north of Israel, in Galilee region. The company produces three lines of wine and all are kosher – depending on the Jewish origin, you can also pronounce kasher or casher (in Hebrew, it means good or trustworthy). These are foods and beverages allowed for consumption, products that need to be supervised by religious authorities - worldwide there are over 400 supervisory agencies of kosher food that attend to the Jewish communities.

But not for this reason (being kosher) that the Golan and the other wine producers intend to conquer the international market. It’s quite to the contrary. Religion is left - with all due respect - aside, and the orientation is totally focused on producing high quality wines that meet the consumer globally.

It was with this thought that I tasted and compared the wines served during dinner at the Bergut Vinho & Bistrô shop (2220-1887). All from the Yarden line, which has a nice label with the design of an oil lamp – that ended up being famous as Aladdin's lamp. The first wine served was the sparkling Gamla Brut (R$ 105), fresh and lively with fair acidity, as should be the welcome wines while canapés are being served. Following, the Yarden Chardonnay 2007 (R$ 95), served with a tomato bruschetta and a touch of truffle oil, was pungent and excessively mineral, something not normally expected from a chardonnay and served to show us didactically, how a harmonization done well, can save a dish or a wine. Next, three red: Yarden Mount Hermon 2009 (R$ 69); Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (R$ 160) and Yarden Syrah 2005 (R$ 160). All fair, honest, easy to harmonize – curiously, it was the cheapest one that showed more character and regionality.

The big moment and highlight of the night was the Yarden Muscat 2008 (R$ 69). Citric, cool, with light and refined touches of lychee. Its delicate color tricks us because it makes us believe in a modest wine. Pure mistake!

A luxury for one thousand and one nights.
Till friday.
(February 25, 2011 Rio Show, page 7)