Lewinsohn: A Rising Star Winery - With Tasting Notes 
 13.11.2009 
  By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday morning I made my way to the new Lewinsohn winery. As I have commented on several occasions, despite some closures, boutique wineries continue to open at about the same rate as rabbits multiply. How nice it is from time to time to discover a winery that is opened by a well-trained professional who actually knows what he wants to do and knows how to go about doing it.

So it is with Ido Lewinsohn who after formal winemaking studies and the garnering of experience in Italy, the United States and Australia is now one of the winemakers at Recanati and has now, together with his father Amnon, has opened his own artisinal winery.

With the winery located literally in the residential garage in the Tel Aviv suburb of Hod HaSharon, Lewinsohn relies on purchased contract grapes, those at this stage including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Sirah and Chardonnay from various vineyards in selected spots throughout the country. First releases, from the 2007 vintage were of about 5,000 bottles and from the 2008 and 2009 vintage about 7,000. Plans are to expand to about 10,000 bottles annually.

At this stage the wines are being sold primarily to several of the best restaurants in the country and some are going to private customers. As to prices – after all, that question always pops to the surface - the whites are going for about NIS 150 per bottle and the reds for anywhere between 180-200. Before anyone jumps up in rage do please read my tasting notes. After that, whatever praise or rage is in order will be well received. And do please note that there are no typographical errors in the end-of-window drinking projections. Lewinsohn can be contacted by email to idolewinsohn@gmail.com

Lewinsohn, Chardonnay, Garage de Papa, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components which means that the assemblage is mine only and a prediction of the potential of this wine that is still in its fetal stage. Promising a fine balance between ripe and rich apple, pear, melon and citrus fruits and light toasty oak and minerals in its youth, those going to honey, blanched almonds and perhaps toasted white bread as it matures. Full-bodied and complex but no blockbuster this as it promises to waltz nicely on the palate. Now we'll wait and see. Drink from release but best from 2012-2017. Tentative Score 91-93.

Lewinsohn, Chardonnay, Garage de Papa, 2008: Light shining gold with a tantalizing hint of green reflections, showing fine balance between acidity, minerals and fruit. On first attack a distinct note of grapefruit, that yielding to notes of lemon, melon, green apples and a tantalizing combination of chalky and flinty minerals, all with an appealing floral overlay. Full-bodied but not at all fat, with gentle notes of spicy wood, calls to mind a fine 1er cru Chablis and like those wines will age nicely. Mouth-filling yet graceful and elegant. Drink now-2018. Score 93.

Lewinsohn, Chardonnay, 2007: Lightly burnished gold with an orange tint, gently oaked and opening with a burst of lime flowers, spicy oak and citrus peel, those yielding in the glass to hints of white peaches, all on a near-buttery background and finishing with a note of pastry-dough. Fine acidity and good balance keep this one deep, complex and elegant. Drink now-2015. Score 92.

Lewinsohn, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark ruby towards royal purple, an unfiltered blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petite Sirah. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm and chewy but polished tannins, those parting in the glass to reveal raspberries and spices on first attack and then on to blackberry and licorice notes, all supported nicely by a note of espresso, the raspberries rising again on the long finish. Drinking beautifully now but best 2011-2017, perhaps longer. Score 92.

Lewinsohn, Merlot, 2007: Deeply aromatic, kingly royal purple in color, full-bodied, with gripping tannins that take their time parting in the glass to reveal the wine's fine balance and structure. Notes of toasty oak here to complement black cherry, currant and vanilla aromas, those on a background of a roasted bouquet garni of Mediterranean herbs. Long and generous, the tannins rise on the finish. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable now but best 2011-2017. Score 91.

Alas, the 2008 red wines were bottled only a week ago and are now in bottle shock so that tasting will have to wait a bit. Overall, I am very impressed!

Best
Rogov