Israel’s World Class Dessert Wines
19.09.2009
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It is timely to reflect at Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, that Israel is getting a name for producing outstanding dessert wines. This is the time that Jews traditionally eat sweet things to symbolize a sweet New Year.
Unfortunately most Israelis associate sweet wines with Kiddush and religious ritual, and therefore the very word ‘sweet’ has connotations of a cheap and nasty wine. Something which is to be avoided, at all costs. However some of the world’s most sought after and expensive wines are sweet, pudding wines. An Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese from Germany, Icewine from Canada or Sauternes from Bordeaux are sweet, but it would be a tragedy if a wine lover never experiences them because of a prejudice against sweet wines.
The Eastern Mediterranean is famous as being home to some of the world’s most original dessert wines. Commandaria, from 14 villages on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains in Cyprus, is the world’s most historic wine, dating back to the Crusades. Greek wines such as Mavrodaphne from the northwest Peloponnese, Vinsantos from the Assyrtiko grown in the volcanic island of Santorini or Muscats from the island of Samos, are some of the world’s best dessert wines. The Keo St John Commandaria, Achaia Clauss Mavrodaphne, Argyros Vinsanto and Samos Muscat are well worth seeking out. Even Lebanon makes quality dessert wines, like the Kefraya Lacrima d’Oro.
Lately, Israel is joining its neighbours in the Eastern Mediterranean and becoming known for excellent dessert wines. Twenty years ago Israeli wine lovers would sneer at sweet wines. The wines that changed the view were Yarden Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest 1988 and a wine that was originally sold under the name ‘Yarden Port Blanc.’
In 1988 the Sauvignon Blanc from the Ortal vineyard was found to have botrytis and the Golan Heights Winery made what may be the best ever dessert wine made in Israel. It was certainly a wonderful wine, and totally unique, because it was never replicated. Those privileged to taste the Yarden Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest will never forget it.
Yarden Port Blanc was a fortified Muscat, a vin doux naturel. This was the first Israeli dessert wine to win a major medal in overseas competition. Thankfully the Golan Heights Winery changed the name to the legally correct ‘Yarden Muscat’ in the early 1990’s. Other Israeli dessert wines to win awards & gain international recognition were the Rothschild White Muscat, produced by Carmel, the Carmel Muscat of Alexandria Late Harvest and Binyamina Muscat.
However it is only in the last ten years that Israeli dessert wines have consistently gained international ratings at the very highest level. The finest of these are two wines, both made from Gewurztraminer grapes and both grown on the high altitude, volcanic Golan Heights. Furthermore, the Yarden HeightsWine and Carmel Sha’al Gewurztraminer are arguably Israel’s most awarded wines of the last ten years.
The HeightsWine, a play on the words ‘Icewine’ and ‘Golan Heights’, is produced from Gewurztraminer grapes, frozen at the winery. The result is a rich, honeyed, and very complex wine. The Sha’al Gewurztraminer is produced from a single vineyard on the Golan Heights, where the grapes are late harvested. The result is more delicate and less rich than the HeightsWine, but with a more refreshing, balancing acidity. Other fine Israeli dessert wines made from Gewurztraminer grapes are Or, made by Tzora and one produced by Binyamina. All are special wines, which any connoisseur of dessert wines from around the world would appreciate.
The Muscat of Alexandria grape variety is indigenous to the Eastern Mediterranean. Some excellent dessert wines are made from Muscat. Joining the aforementioned Yarden Muscat, are sweet Muscats produced by Binyamina, Carmel Private Collection, Dalton and Ella Valley.
White Riesling is rarer in Israel, but quality dessert wines from this variety are made by Teperberg and Vitkin. More unusual still in Israel, is the Yarden Noble Semillon, made from grapes affected by botrytis at the winery.
Normally the wine lover will advocate a dry wine for religious ritual, but at Rosh Hashanah, a dessert wine served ice cold will be perfect for the Kiddush. It will then be suitable to accompany the sweet dishes served including the sweet Challah dipped in honey, the traditional apple and honey, dates and sweet carrot dishes which begin the festive meal. They will even go well with the Gefilte Fish, matching the sweetness and yet toning down the heat of the horseradish. There is nothing wrong in having a dessert wine as an aperitif, as the French do it all the time.
It is then possible to revert to dry wines for the main course and return to the dessert wine with the puddings. Any of the wines mentioned would be ideal. They should be served very cold, even spending a short time in the freezer. At Rosh Hashanah, it is worth selecting a quality sweet wine to honor the occasion, instead of the lesser expensive, poorer quality alternatives.
A new trend amongst religious families is to blend Carmel Tirosh Grape Juice, with say, a King David Kiddush wine, so that all the family can sanctify the Sabbath or Festival without getting too drunk. A better solution and more suitable family wine for these occasions, would be a low alcohol Moscato, which are produced from the Muscat variety. These wines are made in the style of the Italian Moscato d’Asti and outside Italy, no country makes this style of wine better than Israel. The wines are low alcohol, between 5-6% alcohol, frizzante and sweet.
The best in Israel are the Young Selected Moscato produced by Carmel, Golan Moscato and Dalton Moscato. Carmel also produce a red version, for those that prefer a red wine. This is called Young Selected Carignano, made from Carignan with a touch of Muscat. These wines should also be served very cold. The fact, that they are lightly sparkling and slightly less sweet, means that they will probably go even better with the sweet, aperitif dishes than the more traditional dessert wines.
So quite apart from the fact that dessert wines are ideal for the Rosh Hashanah meal, it is a good time to appreciate that Israel is making some really fine dessert wines. They have also received recognition from the major critics. The Carmel Sha’al Gewurztraminer received 95 points from Howard Goldberg, the Yarden Heights Wine and the Tzora Or received 93 and 92 points respectively from Robert Parker. The Sha’al and HeightsWine have also received gold medals in the top international competitions, like the IWSC in London and Challenge du Vin in France. This is obviously a style of wine made well here, and Israel is fast becoming known as a country that makes really fine dessert wines.
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I buy Israeli wines in my country (Not for Israelis)
