Five New Releases from Recanati: With a Hearty Bravo (K)
 08.11.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

After several coffees and the usual ablutions of shaving and showering, I made my way this morning to the Derekh HaYain wine shop. There in the presence of Lenny Recanati, Uri Shaked, CEO Noam Jabobi, senior winemaker Gil Shatzberg and winemaker Ido Lewinsohn, each of whom showed the charms of brevity and keeping directly to the point, I tasted five new releases from the Recanati Winery.

What was of special interest is that these wines, four from the 2008 vintage and one from 2009, are the first done entirely by Shatzberg and Lewinson since they came aboard some two years ago. As will be seen in my tasting notes, this dynamic team has taken their wines a giant step forward in the direction of elegance.

What made me smile in a warm way was when Shatzberg said that he and his fellow winemaker work well together as a team but do not always agree one with the other. As is well known, when members of a team agree on everything, the result is usually something mediocre. Intelligent disagreement on the other hand leads to innovation and ever-increasing quality.

Following are my tasting notes for the wine tasted this morning.

Best
Rogov

Recanati, Rosé, 2009: Showing even more charming than at earlier tastings. A blend of 70% Barbera and 30% Merlot, the Merlot component made by the saignée method. Almost bright cherry red, showing light- to medium-bodied, with fine balancing acidity to keep it lively and refreshing. On the nose and palate raspberry, cherry and watermelon notes with a tantalizing hint of super-light tannins to add complexity. Very nice indeed. Drink now-2013. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 8 Nov 2010)

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2008: Living nicely up to its barrel-tasting promise. Made from low-yield, non-irrigated grapes from the Manara vineyard in the Upper Galilee, full-bodied, with soft, gently gripping tannins integrating nicely. Dark garnet and showing a tempting array of wild berries, black cherries and currants, those matched nicely by gentle notes of spicy cedarwood. Deep, generous and long, with near-sweet tannins rising on the long finish. Best 2012–2018. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 8 Nov 2010)

Recanati, Cabernet Franc, Reserve, 2008: Oak-aged for 18 months in 40% new oak. Smooth and velvety, with tannins that grip gently and stand up nicely to light toasty wood. Notes of rose petals, black cherries and raspberries on first attack, those yielding nicely to currants, tar and toasted rye bread. Full-bodied, with tannins and wood in fine balance with the fruits, all leading to a long and persistent finish on which the oak takes on an appealing sweetish note. Drink now– 2015. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 8 Nov 2010)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2008: Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Dark garnet, with black-fruits and chocolate on the nose. Reflecting its development in 20% new and 80% in one- and two-year-old barriques with gentle notes of spicy oak, opens with aromas and flavors of raspberries, those parting to make way for currants, blackberries and licorice, all on a note of dried, crushed spices. Concentrated and long, showing muscles that are held in reserve to allow the elegance of the wine to make itself comfortably felt. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2012-2016. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 8 Nov 2010)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Recanati's flagship wine, this year a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the rest made up by Petite Sirah, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc, the various components blended only as the wine was ready to be bottled. Developed in Burgundy oak barriques, a supple and elegant wine showing fine balance and structure that bode well for its future. On the nose and palate well-focused currant, blueberry and blackberry fruits, those on a background of bittersweet chocolate, freshly hung cigar tobacco and sweet spices, with its tannins now integrating nicely. A seamless, deftly balanced and elegant wine. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2012-2018, perhaps longer. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 8 Nov 2010)

A lovely tasting for which my thanks to those from the winery who were present. From there I made my way to the first day of the Sommelier wine exhibition at which I tasted some 100 wines. It will take me a bit of time to formalize all of my tasting notes but those will be posted before too much time passes…….scout's honor!